Originally Posted by Maren
I think you are going to find it a bit tight. You'll have just under 1'-5" between the back of the seat and the edge of the table. Minus the foam, say you only use 3", that's just under 14". Maybe not so big of an issue for two as you can have one leg off the bench but if you have guests it might be a real challenge getting in and out.
I agree but am choosing to call it cozy. In the process of building it, I could decrease the table from 3' 1" width if I have to, but with the bulkheads and the decreases I've already made to the conventional booth measurements, it will be tough to do much more with the benches.
Beyond that the setup could be a sort of fitness gauge for the crew.
Originally Posted by roverhi
Those are roughly the dimensions of the dinette on a Westsail 32. See if you can find one in your area to have a look at. It will give you a much better idea in your area. The W32 worked with 3" foam but doubt that it would work as a dinette with any thicker foam. The W32 also had straight seat backs which made for more leg room. I would try and go with an angled seat back, however, as the straight seat backs on the W32 dinette were not comfortable for very long.
I'll see if I can find one. I'm thinking the rake in the seat back will be very important regarding comfort in this obviously tight booth configuration. I also put a fair back slope at the foot location (under one's calves) to try to give more room for peoples feet.
Originally Posted by Boracay
I built something similar into Boracay. Some comments:-
1) I can't see how a anything like a full size chart will fit. My table in a 6'8" (back of seat to back of seat) space will never be able to take a chart.
2) If you can do without the 1" top to the seats it will be more comfortable.
3) I used a pedestal from my chandler for the table - saved a lot of work.
4) Mine ended up quite comfortable. I think I used a little more rake on the seats and they ended up looking way too low. However with the 4" foam on top it was just about right.
5) You don't say how long the seats will be. I wish I had made mine long enough to lie on. Maybe in the next building cycle...
If you would like any measurements or photos from my still partly incomplete lounge/dinette let me know.
Most of my charts
are 46" x 33". I guess I don't know all the chart sizes. For sure though, this will be the best I could do.
I don't understand what you are saying in your point # 2. Can you say it a different way, thanks. As for the support of the table, I'm not sure which way I'm going to go yet. Could be a pedestal or a combination of double acting hinge (2 of them) on the starboard hull
side (haven't finalized this as I want to make a higher table also) and a swinging bracket mounted around the compression
post to give the table support and stability. That swinging bracket would swing out and become a small night table when the main table is in the down position to become a berth. Not sure if I can explain that clearly? The table is generally 4' long however it is actually longer (too hard for me to draw) toward the hull
side in the non uniform area.
Photo's and measurement would be EXCELLENT!
Lancerbye and Gord
I have read a bunch of material on booths and have been taking my measuring tape to restaurants (get some funny
Originally Posted by defjef
Is this meant to be a chart table as well? That would have some bearing on the dimensions of the table top. 3'-1" is quite wide and generous for dining and this could be made a bit smaller. If you keep it wide you can have storage in the pedestal (accessible from through the table top)... or a recess to hold plates or glasses.
The seat depth
should be about 20" but not less than 18. And allow 18" from seat back to edge of table. 18 - 20" seat height. Table height can be 28-30. Use the bottom of the seats for storage.
Yes, I'm hoping to be able to charting on it (with my rotring rotring - drawingtable
). I may put a recessed compartment in it (we'll see). I have to be careful as I have left the table pretty low (once I add 4" foam) for chart work and the knee room for people opposite to each other is tight. I do know/have read the typical/general dimensions for a booth and am hoping that my compromises will be acceptable.
Originally Posted by Tempest245
If I read your drawing correctly, 4 3/4 " of the table top edges will rest on the seat bench to support it when dropped to a berth. You will then have a bump the thickness of the table, are you planning that the 4" cushion will absorb this transition when used as a berth or will you level this off in another way?
I'm also guessing that you've calculated that the berth length 4" up will accommodate your 5' 8" frame. This will work for you, but I'd try to squeeze a little more length out of it. Maybe you can return the sloped backrest higher instead of sloping it all the way to the seat?
What I don't have drawn yet is how the seat back and bottom will work. Both will be cut so they are on the inside of the vertical elements and the seat bottom will be on ledgers. The seat back may go on double acting piano hinges at the top with the bottom locking into place (on the seat back angle) or swinging into the space between the vertical sides. With the double acting hinge it could also swing up horizontally (both seats) and become part of a higher table (stand up) to work on sails
or engine parts
(like a work bench).
The seat bottoms (on a ledger) would normally be slid toward the center (under your knees) and locked in place when the table is setup. When it becomes a berth, the seat bottom will slide back (toward the seat back) so the table top would have the required recess to become flat. That said, I do realize that the seat bottom will have to be at least 3/4" short to do this and so will not connect to the seat back. This will normally be in under the 4" seat back foam. Also I have tried to make the geometry so that the cushions
equal the berth length. The 3 1/4" (4" - 3/4") space at the head
and foot of the berth (when the seat back is swung into the void space between the vertical sides) will have to be padded with round tube type clothes storage bags (got this idea from another thread
That's where I'm at so far. I know it's not optimum, but I'm hoping it will work, either that or I'll have to sell my boat
and buy a bigger one, that would likely have problems too. Probably be too small for the exercise room I would then need.
Something I missed telling everyone. When looking at the drawing, your looking to starboard so it may be running differently than what you are thinking?
Anything ABSOLUTELY unacceptable?
Everything I touch seams to be SO complicated