Broke My Spartan Seacock

[Orion Jim]

But if they ever start to leak or the next time we need to remove them we plan to replace with ball valves.
__________________

Replacing a superior product with an inferior product just doesn't make sense.

[HopCar]

Jim I have to disagree with you. I think a good ball valve seacock is as good as or better than a tapered cone. They certainly require less maintenance and have you looked at the price of tapered cone seacocks? If I had working Spartan seacocks I wouldn't replace them, but if they broke or got so worn you couldn't lap them any more, I sure wouldn't buy new Spartans.

[Orion Jim]

You only sell ball valves. Seems you may be a bit biased. I admit that I am.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Jim Walsh

You only sell ball valves. Seems you may be a bit biased. I admit that I am.

Based on my experience with Hopcar I would disagree. Might be the case with some sellers but I do not believe he would recommend anything that he didn't believe in or would not put on his own boat.

That being said I would not personally state that a ball valve is better than a tapered cone seacock but I do believe it would be just as safe and secure on my boat.

[Terra Nova]

There are good ball valve/seacocks



and there are just plain ball valves.



The two are not interchangeable.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by HopCar

'the metal has de zinced"
No it hasn't. Spartan seacocks are made with low zinc bronze.
That thing was just twisted off because the OP didn't know how to get the cone out.
No penetrating oil, no heat, no magic, just a big wooden mallet.
All you have to do is loosen the jam nut and flange nut then smack that end with the mallet. I usually leave the nuts on enough to protect the thread. The cone will pop right out. If it doesn't you need a bigger hammer.

Maine Sail, as usual, has posted a great illustrated guide to servicing tapered cone seacocks.
Servicing Tapered Cone Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Yep, twisting is not the way to get a tapered one out. Although I think Spartan could improve their design. Most I've had had were designed with a big square sticking out that the handle went on. It's cast material and fairly soft in the scheme of things... the Chinese do it better, as did Wilcox Crittendon.

[HopCar]

Jim I respect that you prefer tapered cone seacocks. They are safe and with proper maintence very reliable and long lived. When I had my boat built we carried Wilcox crittenden tapered cone, Groco expanding rubber plug, and Apollo ball valve seacocks. I knew the maintenance issues with both the cone type and plug type seacocks. I chose the ball valve because it needed less maintence. Since then Wilcox has gone out of business, Groco, Perko, and Buck Algonquin have switched to Ball valve seacocks. As far as I know only Sparton and Blake still make cone type seacocks and they have very limited distribution.

[oldragbaggers]

The last 2 Spartans my husband removed were iffy so we purchased two of the Groco ball valve seacocks to replace them. The price was half of the cost of new Spartan replacements and we have used them in the past and were pleased with them. And, as Hopcar says, they do need less maintenance.

[fallingeggs]

Great thoughts on here. Going to sit on it and see which way I go. Maybe Spartan will just sell me the piece I broke.

On a continuation of this story, I went to the boat last night to move docks and when I was done I went to close all the seacocks (something I didn't do last time!). The hose on the broken seacock had a stream of water spraying out! Out of all hoses to fail and out of all seacocks.



After some colorful words about how the sky is falling, I pulled the hose off, tapped in a wooden plug (that the previous owner left), cut the broken part of the hose off, cut the plug down so that the hose will fit over it and clamped the hose back on the broken seacock.

Hopefully this will hold tight for the last remaining weekends I have to sail. Really want to do a better shakedown coming into the winter fixing season. Would hate to have to pull her now.




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[oldragbaggers]

Originally Posted by fallingeggs

Great thoughts on here. Going to sit on it and see which way I go. Maybe Spartan will just sell me the piece I broke.

On a continuation of this story, I went to the boat last night to move docks and when I was done I went to close all the seacocks (something I didn't do last time!). The hose on the broken seacock had a stream of water spraying out! Out of all hoses to fail and out of all seacocks.

Attachment 89395Attachment 89396

After some colorful words about how the sky is falling, I pulled the hose off, tapped in a wooden plug (that the previous owner left), cut the broken part of the hose off, cut the plug down so that the hose will fit over it and clamped the hose back on the broken seacock.

Hopefully this will hold tight for the last remaining weekends I have to sail. Really want to do a better shakedown coming into the winter fixing season. Would hate to have to pull her now.




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I'm very glad you happened to pay a visit to your boat to move her. We just replaced all hoses to our seacocks. Lance thought maybe the hoses that were on there were okay, but after seeing this post I am really glad he did it. That's one area where it just doesn't make sense to cut any corners.

[a64pilot]

Is it just me, or do others have issues with plastic seacocks? I just couldn't do it, I don't trust injection molded plastic that much, should I?

[fallingeggs]

Thought I would follow up on this as I finally removed the broken seacock.

Sucker was bonded with something like M3 5200. Picked up a flush cut pull saw (will need to replace teak bungs too) and was able to cut the adhesive out between the seacock and fiberglass. Also applied heat from a MAP torch.



After a lot of hits from a hammer, the dang thing finally came unthreaded. Exciting.



Replacement is on its way.


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[keepondancin]

"After a lot of hits from a hammer, the dang thing finally came unthreaded. Exciting."

How did you unscrew the through hull fitting? Last year I had to grind the mushroom off and drive the remaining threaded section into the bilge.

[fallingeggs]

Originally Posted by keepondancin

"After a lot of hits from a hammer, the dang thing finally came unthreaded. Exciting."

How did you unscrew the through hull fitting? Last year I had to grind the mushroom off and drive the remaining threaded section into the bilge.

I didn't replace the through hull itself; just removed the seacock from it. Sabre glasses the through halls in well, so I don't think I'll need to do that step for a while.


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[Boatyarddog]

Amazing how tuff fiberglass is huh?


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