Brightsides Paint Job ... Roll and Tip

[rrayfield]

Im on here all the time reading but I never share! Figured I would this time. We roll and tip my charter boat every year with iterlux brightsides .... this is about the 5th year I have done it.


They say the dark colors are harder but it always turns out great!

What do you think?

[hummingway]

Looks fabulous.

[four winds]

Looks very good to me.

Based on your clothing it looks like a cool, clear day. Is it usually cool and clear when you do it? Seems like that would help the flow.

I've painted many cars and motorcycles, but not roll and tip of course. I want to do my boat myself someday and would enjoy reading your tips and tricks for roll and tip if you found time for a brief write up.

I have dark blue topsides as well and think it looks good.

[Triton318]

Looks nice! I'll be rolling and tipping the topsides of my boat in April with a one-part polyurethane. Painted it dark blue 11 years ago. I'm going back to white, though.

[psneeld]

Why every year?

[rrayfield]

Originally Posted by psneeld

Why every year?

Because I don't take care of the paint. I dock on a floating dock so it rubs on the fenders and throughout the year creates rub spots. This particular boat leaves the dock and comes back anywhere from 2-6 times per day during season. In general I typically just beat the crap out of the hull for 8 months. After the season is over I haul the boat to do a bottom job, replace zincs, check rudder, check prop, and sand the hull with 400 grit and paint. I have in the past showed up at the yard in the morning, sanded, whipped down with denatured alcohol and painted in one day (paint cove and boot stripes the next day). The boat is a 37 Irwin. I will paint the bottom right after the topsides... im typically only out of the water for 2-3 days. I mix up the brightsides up 2 quarts then thin with 333, I then add a few splashes of penatrol, it flows out real nice. If it is windy it blushes and the gloss is lost, the solvents evaporate to quickly. When we painted today it was just above 50 degrees.

You can see pictures and videos @ sailob.com

Ryan

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by four winds

Looks very good to me.

Based on your clothing it looks like a cool, clear day. Is it usually cool and clear when you do it? Seems like that would help the flow.

Yep! It's best done in 60º F weather, preferably out of the direct sun light.


.

[SailPenelope]

Beautiful! I have had good luck with Brightsides as well, but on a much less challenging surface. (Masts on my CT41 ketch). Do you have to do any sanding/fairing? Any tips for the rest of us?

[rrayfield]

Originally Posted by four winds

Looks very good to me.

Based on your clothing it looks like a cool, clear day. Is it usually cool and clear when you do it? Seems like that would help the flow.

I've painted many cars and motorcycles, but not roll and tip of course. I want to do my boat myself someday and would enjoy reading your tips and tricks for roll and tip if you found time for a brief write up.

I have dark blue topsides as well and think it looks good.

I use a small nap foam roller from west marine Foam Roller Cover (Redtree Industries) - Paint Brushes & Rollers

To tip I use a 6" china bristle brush from Lowes... about $15 I think. Get a new one every year. Just seems to work better. After you tip a while the brush will load up with paint. Just rake it on the pan to keep it ringed out. Once you start don't stop. Im right handed so I start on the starboard stern and go all the way around. Takes less than 2 quarts and done in about 40 minutes.

If you see a problem with the flowout after the first 6' add more 333. Mine is usually thinned about 8-10 %. Its almost like water, just a little thicker.

Don't go back any further than a foot or 2 behind your run to fix a problem, by the time it has been on the boat a few minutes it will drag if you try tip it again. I will always have imperfections somewhere on the boat, but typically im the only person that can find them to point it out. Don't sweat the small flaws. If you don't like it the first time, just wait till the next day scuff and repeat.

[rrayfield]

Originally Posted by SailPenelope

Beautiful! I have had good luck with Brightsides as well, but on a much less challenging surface. (Masts on my CT41 ketch). Do you have to do any sanding/fairing? Any tips for the rest of us?

I use a Porta cable 6" sander Porter-Cable 7346SP 6-Inch Random Orbit Sander with Polishing Pad:Amazon:Home Improvement . Make quick work with 320 - 400 grit paper (better is a lightweight air sander, but takes allot of air. I just sand off the shine. I used to use 220 grit it was quicker, but with the dark color some of the sanding scratches would show through.

Ryan

[dandrews]

Originally Posted by SailPenelope

Beautiful! I have had good luck with Brightsides as well, but on a much less challenging surface. (Masts on my CT41 ketch). Do you have to do any sanding/fairing? Any tips for the rest of us?

Has you mast always been painted or did it start off as a bare alum spar? Thinking of painting mine but no sure how it will take the prime and Brightsides.

Don

[Coops]

I have used and had great results with the Brightside paint from International, but over here in Australia it has been replaced with Toplac. So,polyurethane has now become enamel, not too sure if the results are going to be the same. Has anyone used the new Toplac, or is it a purely local thing?

Coops.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by rrayfield

I use a small nap foam roller from west marine Foam Roller Cover (Redtree Industries) - Paint Brushes & Rollers

To tip I use a 6" china bristle brush from Lowes... about $15 I think. Get a new one every year. Just seems to work better. After you tip a while the brush will load up with paint. Just rake it on the pan to keep it ringed out. Once you start don't stop. Im right handed so I start on the starboard stern and go all the way around. Takes less than 2 quarts and done in about 40 minutes.

If you see a problem with the flowout after the first 6' add more 333. Mine is usually thinned about 8-10 %. Its almost like water, just a little thicker.

Don't go back any further than a foot or 2 behind your run to fix a problem, by the time it has been on the boat a few minutes it will drag if you try tip it again. I will always have imperfections somewhere on the boat, but typically im the only person that can find them to point it out. Don't sweat the small flaws. If you don't like it the first time, just wait till the next day scuff and repeat.

Ditto!
Except that I use a 4" wide (6" would probably be better) and when it starts to load up I dip it in a small bucket of 333 and wipe it clean.
It's best to have two people, one on the roller the other on the brush, so to keep it a smooth process. Otherwise, the overlaps can show if not done fast enough.

[sy_gilana]

Damn fine job there!

[SailPenelope]

To answer dandrew's question - my masts are wood.....hollow box Sitka spruce. Easy to paint. I would imagine that aluminum would be more challenging. My last boat, which had an aluminum mast, was professionally painted with a 2 part epoxy - looked great after 21 years!