Blocks for mast base

[Cyrus Safdari]

What do you gals and guys suggest for mast base halyard blocks when leading lines aft? I have a mast base halyard organizer plate like this under the mast Halyard Organizer Plates and will need blocks for halyards, using 1/2" or 12 mm double braid. I was considering Barton High Load or Garhauer stainless steel 60 series single blocks. I guess on a swivel base? 4 singles or 2 doubles?

[roverhi]

First I wouldn't go with 1/2" line. It is way too large and makes a big lump when coiled or stuffed in sheet bags. The strength certainly isn't needed. I went with 3/8" exotic for the main and jib. 3/8' is plenty easy even on these 7 decade old fingers. Went with the exotics because I use an ATN Mast Climber and it's way easier to climb on low stretch line. Just had the opportunity to use the mast climber on 3/8" NE Ropes VPC and it worked fine so would go with that if you wanted to save some money. Got a deal on 7/16" exotic for the main halyard and regret spending the money, The 7/16" is just too bulky for line that spends most all it's time spilling out of a sheet bag. Went with 7/16" StaSet for the clew reefing lines and wish I'd gone 3/8" for that too. Used 5/16" for the tack reefing lines (double line reefing) because there is very little strain on the line pulling down the tack and it's plenty strong enough to take the halyard and clew tension.

I don't have a base plate so used Harken classic mid range stand up blocks for the clew reefing lines and a main halyard turning block of around 800# working load capacity. Went with smaller blocks for the tack reefing lines and probably should have for the clew reefing lines. They've worked fine including a solo sail to Hawaii from SF.

Think your looking at too much block for your boat. Blocks with that much strength aren't needed and think they will look out of place. Swivel blocks are what you'll need.

Used Garhauer 30-DO-QB deck organizers.

Used a variety of clutches from Garhauer, Schaeffer, and Spinlock with two Anderson #12 winches.

Ran the clew reef lines and outhaul to the port side. Main halyard and tack reefing lines to the stbd side. I'm a traditionalist and had to run the main halyard to the stbd side and it makes it easier to reef with the halyard and tack lines on the same side. If I'd run the halyard to the same side as the clew reefing lines could have gotten by with only one. winch. The Cunningham is still at the mast though could run it back to either side but would need to change out the turning blocks to get an extra sheave.

Kept the headsail halyards at the mast. Unless you have a crew it's a total pain to run from the bow to the cockpit a number of times which is what it takes to hoist a jib. With roller furling, headsail never go up without constantly going forward to help the sail feed into the furling extrusion. Even with a crew it's a pain communicating (yelling) from the foredeck to the cockpit to My other boat has all the halyards led to the cockpit but will move the headsails back to the mast as soon as I get a pad for the winch.

Peter O.
'Ae'a Pearson 35 #108

[Cyrus Safdari]

Yeah I don't see a reason to take the headsail halyard aft either. Thanks for the tips.


I bought Lewmar Dc2 clutches -- they're surprisingly hard to find nowdays it seems

[Cyrus Safdari]

BTW sleeping on the coils of extra thick halyards is nice.

[Suijin]

You want single swivel blocks which will allow the block to articulate to the best entry/exit angle for the line, which will help to reduce friction and potential chafe. Larger blocks have the advantage of a larger turning radius which will also reduce effort required. Strength is not a bad thing for halyards as the force on the halyard during an accidental jib can be considerable, but I would not go crazy on getting anything bigger than is properly sized for the lines you're using.

If you are raising a jib solo into a furler, a properly placed feeder can be a godsend. Doesn't always work in every situation, depending on the geometry, bolt rope, etc but can make raising a jib singlehanded a much easier task regardless of where the line is led.

[roverhi]

Doesn't everyone already have a feeder?? Still have to go forward constantly or station someone at the furler to get the sail up.

[Cheechako]

First, go with the biggest diameter sheave you can afford. There's a lot of friction in leading lines aft and the larger the radius the easier it all flows.
Your line size is very much defined by the load, but the bigger the easier on the hands, especially if you are not winching that particular line.
If the block leads fair to the stopper or winch, no need for swivel. Sometimes they lay and twist funny.

[roverhi]

Here's another source of cheaper exotic cored line. Believe they also have it in red and blue. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NovaTech-Ar...hZyqPp&vxp=mtr

Bought it in 5/16" for my Sabre 28 and is low stretch.

There area number of Lewmar DC2 clutches for sail on Ebay now.