Blisters? Bubbles in gelcoat when applied? Pox?

[guyrj33]

Looks like bubbles in in the original gel coat to me.
When I had our boat blasted it was done with baking soda, looks like your boat was blasted with a more aggressive media.
I hot coated 5 layers of West System epoxy with barrier additive and hot coated 3 layers of bottom paint. No problems with the bond.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by WoodFamSkipper

I 100% have that part set in mind
The previous layers were flaking apart - I do t want my new coverage to do the same

On this topic point...how do you wake up the first two coats the next morning? Sanding?

Another question....the Interlux brochure talks about SolventWash202 to remove surface debris
Is there a no brand name for that chemical ? And what is best to use to wipe down? Sponges/cloths?

Maybe minaret can answer your questions. I just know enough to be dangerous and people tend to ignore layers need to go on green. Temp. and humidity may be a consideration he may be able to answer about also.

[WoodFamSkipper]

I've got 28c/82f feels like 30c/86f
66% humidity
In sunny and breezy Riviera Beach FL

[fatherchronica]

I have done two blister repairs on 36 footers. One 50 or so 1" to 1 1/2" blisters requiring grinding and layers of glass in the divots, and the other thousands of tiny bubbles. The first I used all West System, came out great. The second I used epoxy from Epoxy USA an online supplier. It came out great also but the epoxy was easier to use and Paul the owner says that if you ever get water back into the fiberglass that it could only come from your bilge. 4 years later it is still perfect, but I imagine that the West System job from 20 plus years ago is good too.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by WoodFamSkipper

I 100% have that part set in mind
The previous layers were flaking apart - I do t want my new coverage to do the same

On this topic point...how do you wake up the first two coats the next morning? Sanding?

Another question....the Interlux brochure talks about SolventWash202 to remove surface debris
Is there a no brand name for that chemical ? And what is best to use to wipe down? Sponges/cloths?

Bond window between coats of Interlux 2000 is now six months, ie you can wait up to six months between coats without sanding and still get a chemical bond. They did this so boats can be shipped from the factory in Interlux and just have a single coat of barrier rolled on followed by AF of choice after reaching their shipping destination without having to sand the whole bottom when commissioning.


Bond window between 2000 and AF however is much shorter; use the thumbprint test. You should be able to leave a print in the finish if you try without any coming off on your skin. This window will be short in your conditions; on larger hulls, especially with smaller crews, I will sometimes split the job in half during hot weather and apply a coat of barrier to stbd side AM, rolling over the centerline onto port about a foot, then a coat of AF PM catching the bond window. Next day same other side. This prevents you catching the bond window on only one side of the boat, ie perfect print test when you start rolling but past the window by the time you reach other side. Window can be as little as one hour in high temps. JMHO.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by minaret

Bond window between coats of Interlux 2000 is now six months, ie you can wait up to six months between coats without sanding and still get a chemical bond.

That is really interesting, and useful news.

[WoodFamSkipper]

Originally Posted by minaret

Bond window between coats of Interlux 2000 is now six months, ie you can wait up to six months between coats without sanding and still get a chemical bond. They did this so boats can be shipped from the factory in Interlux and just have a single coat of barrier rolled on followed by AF of choice after reaching their shipping destination without having to sand the whole bottom when commissioning.





Bond window between 2000 and AF however is much shorter; use the thumbprint test. You should be able to leave a print in the finish if you try without any coming off on your skin. This window will be short in your conditions; on larger hulls, especially with smaller crews, I will sometimes split the job in half during hot weather and apply a coat of barrier to stbd side AM, rolling over the centerline onto port about a foot, then a coat of AF PM catching the bond window. Next day same other side. This prevents you catching the bond window on only one side of the boat, ie perfect print test when you start rolling but past the window by the time you reach other side. Window can be as little as one hour in high temps. JMHO.

We are officially out of the gates and running!!

Made a time lapse of the first coat:
https://youtu.be/g0_M73qwVmA

I think it took two of us just over an hour and we used two gallons over the whole hull with a small amount of surplus for cutting in and pinhole covering after.
This was with a "dangit! Should have mixed up the second tin sooner for its 20min induction window without standing around for 10mins!" waiting

Am I right in thinking that the jackstands will always be one coat poorer for the overall job?
Going to ask the staff at the yard to move them today, but those patches are instantly a coat behind now

Thank you everyone for your tips and insights!
Plan is to try and bond the 2000e with a hard coat of Interlux Antifoul before adding two ablative coats

[minaret]

Originally Posted by WoodFamSkipper

We are officially out of the gates and running!!

Made a time lapse of the first coat:
https://youtu.be/g0_M73qwVmA

I think it took two of us just over an hour and we used two gallons over the whole hull with a small amount of surplus for cutting in and pinhole covering after.
This was with a "dangit! Should have mixed up the second tin sooner for its 20min induction window without standing around for 10mins!" waiting

Am I right in thinking that the jackstands will always be one coat poorer for the overall job?
Going to ask the staff at the yard to move them today, but those patches are instantly a coat behind now

Thank you everyone for your tips and insights!
Plan is to try and bond the 2000e with a hard coat of Interlux Antifoul before adding two ablative coats

Read my Nauticat 52 refit thread and you'll see there are pics on how to do this.

Basically you want to apply all coatings without moving stands. Stay back from the stand pads an inch or so on first coat, then add another inch to that on each successive coating. This prevents a build up/hard line at the edge of the stand pad. After all coatings are applied, have the yard move the stands. Then sand/feather out the coatings around where each stand pad was. Then go through the entire process again on these spots, adding about an inch to each coat to match.


Obviously, less stands is better. Often you can get away with vertical bracing and no stands, but that is boatyard specific and if it was an option they would have already mentioned it to you.


Keep at it, you'll be done before you know it. Remember you can keep filling pinholes with Premium Filler inbetween coats of 2000 if you didn't get them all. Have fun!

[minaret]

Hey hard to tell on the time lapse, but make sure you are wearing your half mask at all times at least. This stuff is poison!

[barnakiel]

Looks superficial. I would guess some minor gelcoat challenge. Unless you are into a very serious restoration thing you may be considering epoxy putty and epoxy primer over.

b.