Best type of Prop Puller

[bletso]

Bang for buck, but more important being able to remove the prop. I have tried the 3 jaw puller, heat and PB Blaster to no avail. there appears to be three main types of pullers. Do any of you have experience on which is the best? The prop has been on for better than 20 years that I know of.

1

2

3

Dale

[accomplice]

I don't remember the brand, but about 7 years I had a diver use one that looked like the middle photo to remove the prop in the water. The prop had been on the boat for 19 years at the time. The diver told me it worked great. After the job was done I gave the diver the tool in payment.

[fstbttms]

It's not a question of ""best", it's a question of "what is the right tool for the job?". BTW- PB Blaster and a gear puller do not qualify as the right tool.

The plate puller is excellent for removing larger 3 and 4 blade props. The "C" puller is really only useful for the smallest of props. The scissor puller is more versatile and of the three, the one I'd recommend to you. There is a fourth alternative however:



Similar to your #3 puller, but much easier to use, especially underwater. This is the puller I use on probably 90% of my prop jobs (I also have a plate puller and a"C" puller.) If you are going to buy anything, this is the one I recommend.

http://www.rammount.com/CatalogResul...1/Default.aspx

[Lancerbye]

Just did this to two props that had been on for at least 20 years. Best was the plate puller on 22x16 bronze props on a 1 1/2 in. shaft. But there is a trick. Tighten the puller as much as you can, then take an oxy-acetylene torch and heat the hub. It will pop. Can only be done out of the water. Hauled out changed two props and replaced 7 zincs splashed back in 1hour.

[a64pilot]

Your out of the water obviously, but when you had the puller tensioned as much as it could stand, did you strike the center of it repeatedly with a BFH and check tension of the puller again?

Surely #1 is the strongest of the three?

[fstbttms]

Here's the technique (and a torch is unecessary. I have never needed heat to remove a prop and I have pulled many, many dozens of props)- attach the puller and tension it well. Give it (the puller, not the prop) a few good solid blows with a heavy hammer, like a 5lb. sledge. Retension the puller and hit it a few more times. In all likelihood, the prop will not come free. If it does not, reposition the puller and repeat the process. It's all about pressure, pounding and persistence. The prop will come off at some point. I have even left a puller on a stubborn prop under tension overnight and found the prop had come free by itself the next morning.

[skipmac]

One caution. Some drive train parts do not take well to the hammering part. Forget if it was the v-drive or the transmission and a seal or bearing but I have read of problems from a couple of Pearson owners when pulling props.

[donradcliffe]

+1 to fastbottom's puller and the BFH. I will add that you tighten the puller up until it starts to bend, and then hit it with the BFH like its your worst enemy. Worked for me this spring on 24" props on 2" shafts.

[fstbttms]

For your edification and enjoyment:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haYe-Lw6DBE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_sGFohvdj8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5lflbBwCFM

[bletso]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Your out of the water obviously, but when you had the puller tensioned as much as it could stand, did you strike the center of it repeatedly with a BFH and check tension of the puller again?

Surely #1 is the strongest of the three?

NO, I was hitting the back of it. I have re-tensioned it and am trying hitting it from the front. In the end I will probably have to by a proper puller. The three jaw pulley puller is just not stout enough from the looks of it.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by bletso

NO, I was hitting the back of it. I have re-tensioned it and am trying hitting it from the front. In the end I will probably have to by a proper puller. The three jaw pulley puller is just not stout enough from the looks of it.

Smack the big screw that you tighten the puller with, the one that goes straight to the prop shaft. That is if your using the type of puller I'm thinking you are. Smack it two or three good times and try to tighten it again and repeat many times. Most likely it will suddenly get loose one of the times when you hit it, sometimes the movement is so slight you don't even notice until you go to tighten it again and find it loose.

Skipmac has a very good point I think, but I have no experience with sail drives etc. On just a prop mounted on a shaft I have seen a torch used successfully to get a prop off, and I have seen one heated and suddenly cooled by a water hose pop one off too.

[Cotemar]

This puller worked well for me. As other have said, tighten to the max and tap with a hammer tighten , repeat, repeat. It should pop off into your hands.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1158349

[a64pilot]

fstbttms,
Very nice videos, noticed you were dry, do you use the suit for bouyancy, or just don't bother with worrying about it?

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

fstbttms,
Very nice videos, noticed you were dry, do you use the suit for bouyancy, or just don't bother with worrying about it?

In this kind of work we do not wear any BCDs. With the neoprene drysuit (which I wear typically from about Thanksgiving into March, here in the Bay Area) I will bleed all the air out once in the water, trying to be as neutral as possible. If I have to go to the bottom or just before getting out of the water, I will put a couple of bursts of air into it.

[bletso]

I finally got the prop off. I made my own puller, which looks like hell, but did the job. $18.00 for grade 8 bolts and some 1/4 inch scrap plate. Tools - plasma cutter - welder, (had to make it 1/2 in as 1/4 in just bent) - and drill press. 1 hr to construct and 10 mins to pull the prop. With a three jaw largish gear puller we tried for hours to no avail. I guess the right tool sometimes does do the job. The bottom pic is when the prop popped loose.