Best Tool To Cut SS Structural Bolts

[jimbunyard]

Not enough information, but all other things being equal, a 4 1/2 grinder with a 1/16" thick cutoff disc is the most efficient...

[Peregrine1983]

Another vote for an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel. That bolt will be cut in 3 seconds.

Don't forget your safety glasses and just FYI... sparks will fly.

[leftbrainstuff]

I use Starrett hacksaw blades on my very sturdy Dewalt hacksaw and I have a bunch of 10 in Starret blades I sometimes use wrapped in tape for hard to reach spots.

I use Walter wheels and cut off discs on my die grinder.

I've had a lot of trouble finding good blades for oscillating tools. The Bosch carbide blades have worked well. I've cut thru 1/4in SS embedded in the cabin top but it's slow going.

I've never owned a sawzall and likely never will. My background is in metal and composites and I just feel they are crude tools not worthy of a place in my toolkit.

[sparrowhawk1]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

Yeah. But also the biggest ripoff going. Every brand has about 4 types of battery and they phase them out a lot quicker than the tool wears out, and they are not cheap. I just tossed a cordless jigsaw and two drills last year because can't get the batteries any more. I am now down to ONE cordless drill. All my other drills and power tools are good old fashioned cord type. I hate cordless. Just my rant for the day. Sorry. I feel better now.

I had an old 9 volt drill, the type with batteries in the handle I took them out and attached an extension cord to it and run it off my 12-volt house Bank works great. Actually this is the second time I've done that. with the first drill I used to use a hole saw and the motor would get so hot I would have to put it down and it lasted for years and years. Not sure if this would work with the newer 18 volts but it might be worth getting a converter . one day I will try it and I can even use an old cordless battery with batteries removed as the connector so I can switch from corded to cordless. Ryobi hasn't changed battery styles for many years if at all.

[ferrailleur]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

Yeah. But also the biggest ripoff going. Every brand has about 4 types of battery and they phase them out a lot quicker than the tool wears out, and they are not cheap. I just tossed a cordless jigsaw and two drills last year because can't get the batteries any more. I am now down to ONE cordless drill. All my other drills and power tools are good old fashioned cord type. I hate cordless. Just my rant for the day. Sorry. I feel better now.

So true GrowleyMonster…. I cannot count how many 18V Dewalt batteries I have junked! Now it's the turn of the 20V Dewalt batteries….
Cordless are less powerful and more costly in exchange for a little short lived convenience.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

Yeah. But also the biggest ripoff going. Every brand has about 4 types of battery and they phase them out a lot quicker than the tool wears out, and they are not cheap. I just tossed a cordless jigsaw and two drills last year because can't get the batteries any more. I am now down to ONE cordless drill. All my other drills and power tools are good old fashioned cord type. I hate cordless. Just my rant for the day. Sorry. I feel better now.

I have a set of Ryobi cordless tools that I've had almost 20 years and they use the same batteries as the new ones. Only difference is they've gone from NiCad to lithium batteries which cost more but are way better.

Lots of people claim Ryobis are cheap junk but the only one that has died so far was one that I dropped in salt water. Built a barn, overhauled a boat, built numerous shelves and stuff and still going strong.

[Sailorbob8599]

Originally Posted by Capt. Ray

Angle grinder with cut-off wheel. 1" bolt? 30 seconds.

A sawsall will take a LOT longer.

I second this advice from personal experience.

[Ken Z]

use a sawzall and a demo metal blade, more expensive, not always easy to find, but are much better than regular metal blades.when running the saw take a very good grip on the saw as to not let it hop or vibrate around, hold the foot tight aganist what you are cutting. Bent blades put on a piece of wood can be tapped flat. Depending on bolt sixe you may need 2 blades per bolt.

[P3sailor]

Guess I'm unsure about the why you need to hack through those s/s bolts? If they're seized or corroded I would attempt to drill them out, that is if they're accessible. Forget about the sawzall, they're just a destructive piece of machinery designed for demolition, too hard to control what the free end of the blade is doing or what it is chewing up! The Fein, or equivalent, is a great tool designed to do many jobs, other manufacturers (Bosch, DeWalt, etc) manufacture similar tools which perform very well, also. Other than that, an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel may work very well. Good Luck with your project.

[skipmac]

The fastest, easiest is an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel but it can be messy and damage surrounding parts. As A64 mentioned, keep the metal grit off the boat because it will rust.

[a64pilot]

Angle grinder will generate an enormous amount of heat, just be aware of that. Ideally an air powered one and a little cooling flow of water will get it cut off without any heat damage.

I still think you should try wringing them though, doesn’t hurt to try

[Training Wheels]

Originally Posted by leftbrainstuff

I use Starrett hacksaw blades on my very sturdy Dewalt hacksaw and I have a bunch of 10 in Starret blades I sometimes use wrapped in tape for hard to reach spots.

I use Walter wheels and cut off discs on my die grinder.

I've had a lot of trouble finding good blades for oscillating tools. The Bosch carbide blades have worked well. I've cut thru 1/4in SS embedded in the cabin top but it's slow going.

I've never owned a sawzall and likely never will. My background is in metal and composites and I just feel they are crude tools not worthy of a place in my toolkit.

I love my sawzall, chain saw, and 10 pound sledge!

[Cheechako]

Well... I dont think we even know what he's doing, or what size bolts. I thought it was new construction. Is it demo? or what...? Did someone say 1" really?
Grinders: they spread particles everywhere and after being that hot they rust like steel.
Sawzall: if there's easy access but in the bow? You're just likely to break blades and make a mess.
SS?: Unscrew them. Rent an impact hammer if necessary

[model 10]

[QUOTE=a64pilot;
I still think you should try wringing them though, doesn’t hurt to try[/QUOTE]

That should be your first, go to option if somebody is paying you to fix something. Gets the job moving if it works.
I have a 3/4" breaker bar as part of my emergency tiller kit and that would sure get the job done.

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by ferrailleur

So true GrowleyMonster…. I cannot count how many 18V Dewalt batteries I have junked! Now it's the turn of the 20V Dewalt batteries….
Cordless are less powerful and more costly in exchange for a little short lived convenience.

You need to buy the right tools. My Bosch 10.8 volt tools are tiny, but are my primary power tools that have been used to refurbish two boats in the last 7 years. Just the other day I drilled 2 off 10mm holes deep into a 1.75 inch rudder shaft to take set screws for an autopilot tiller with one, due to an inability to get any other drill into the correct position. The drill did it with no issue. I have 18volt Ryobi stuff too, but only use the them for sawing and sanding mostly.