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Kenomac · 31-08-2015, 09:45

I need to remove 60-80 toe rail screws tomorrow because the teak has worn down and exposed the screws following a good sanding. I need to drill the holes a little deeper then replug them. Can anyone tell me what's the best exterior glue to use for 1/2 teak plugs?

I've shown a picture of what I believe to be a polyurethane liquid glue, maybe I'm wrong but it indicates on the label for use with wood outdoors. Or I have the West System epoxy.

Which is best? The fellow at the chandlery told me to use the Pattex in the yellow bottle.

Ken

oldragbaggers · 31-08-2015, 09:57

I used Titebond III on mine.

SVTatia · 31-08-2015, 10:01

I don't know which is best, but I have been using Titebond - easy to work with, waterproof, holds up well and can be used in many other tasks.
Its a PITA to mix epoxy for this kind of job, and you don't need much glue, as long as the plugs are well cut i.e. tapered, and lined up with the grain.

Titebond III: Ultimate Wood Glue

**weavis** · 31-08-2015, 10:08

Pattex is a well respected brand in Europe

model 10 · 31-08-2015, 10:55

Epoxy makes it just about impossible to remove the plug one piece in the future. You end up damaging the hole in the toe rail trying to get them out again.

donradcliffe · 31-08-2015, 11:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guy

Epoxy makes it just about impossible to remove the plug one piece in the future. You end up damaging the hole in the toe rail trying to get them out again.

I was taught to dip one plug end in varnish and drive it in--I still do.

capt jgw · 31-08-2015, 11:55

I use the same varnish I'm finishing the piece with. No compatibly problems and you can get the plugs back out of you need to. If you glue them in, you might splinter the piece getting them out. It's how the old time pros did it.

Kenomac · 31-08-2015, 12:43

I won't be finishing the toe rail with varnish, it will be allowed to go grey and look natural. Seems like if I use the varnish method, I'll see a ring around each plug.

bletso · 31-08-2015, 13:34

With epoxy, a little heat will soften it up and they will come out just fine. The real problem with epoxy is you have to keep it cold, have everything ready, and use a small amount at a time, keeping the mix in the fridge.

If you think you have one which will not come out use a hollow screw extractor of the plug diameter and just drill down to the desired depth.

If you did everything correct, why would you have to remove a sealed in plug?

**roverhi** · 31-08-2015, 15:23

Don't like epoxy because it can fill the flat slot or phillips depressions making it impossible to remove the fastener without drilling and using an extractor. Varnish will work whether the rail is varnished or not though won't fill the void well if the plug is a loose fit. No matter what you use to 'glue' in the plug, you'll be able to see the deck/plug interface. Titebond works but can also fill in the fastener head. Not as hard to overcome as is epoxy, however. Gorilla Glue has more of an ability to fill discrepancies but I don't like the way it foams up.

dbeausoleil · 01-09-2015, 08:30

there's a sealer for teak. Old school was to varnish teak. Bad idea. teak oil peels off varnish. Always ends in tears.

Teak sealer works best, as it is made to not crack w/the seeping teak oils.

If left to weather, apply in screw hole with an eye dropper, stuff plug in (don't over fill). sand to fit. wipe w/damp cloth. presto.

Star Brite Tropical Teak Sealer Light Pint - Star Marine Depot

jreiter190 · 01-09-2015, 09:25

My teak caprail is buggered too. I'm going to remove it, RandR the hull deck join and make a new one out of that wood substitute you get at Lowes.If there's so much material gone that the screws are standing proud, it's time to replace it. All those grooves you sanded off? ,that means you sanded to the lowest level, right?

senormechanico · 01-09-2015, 09:31

I'm a fan of Gorilla Glue.
Wet the surface with water, a dab of glue, press it in.
After a couple of hours, cut it flush.
The extra glue which expands during curing cuts off easily.
After a few days, you don't see any evidence of glue.

Kenomac · 01-09-2015, 09:43

Pattex, the stuff I have, looks to be the European version of Gorrilla glue. Same contents, polyuretha liquid glue. I used to use Gorilla glue in the states for piano sound board work, since when it's exposed to moisture, it creates a more secure bold, instead of loosening up.