Best filler for worn out woodscrew holes

[snippet]

Some great ideas here, particularly JPCate. However, the OP does not indicate the material they are repairing in order to drill new pilot holes; different materials = different solutions.

[s/v Jedi]

Try to get your hands on some of the same lumber and cut thin sticks off the corners, so that you get tapered, triangular cross section sticks.

Put some waterproof glue in the screw hole and start sticking these pieces in. When it gets tight, hammer them in. Let glue cure and cut flush.

If you can’t get the same lumber, you can use triangular tooth picks from Jordan, like here: https://www.amazon.com/Jordan-Dental...s%2C130&sr=8-2

These are double ended so you break them in half to get two pieces to drive into the hole.

Round toothpicks don’t work half as well.

[Ninedotsix]

It works, I've done it, and I first read about it in Gougeon Bros. book about WEST System -

Use new screws of same size, and wax the threads with a thin film, aka release agent, or wax.

With those screws prepared, clean up so you don't get wax on epoxy work that comes next.

You can use thickened, or plain epoxy.
Plain will be stronger, and thickened (with cabosil) will resist wear better.
Small diameter holes should use plain epoxy.

Before epoxy stiffens, assemble parts, insert the screws, and tighten loosely.

Allow to cure.

Now here's a trick -
It's entirely possible that epoxy will run out, and even thumb/finger prints may be seen later, so look and think ahead; if you can't get a scraping tool into all the places you may want to scrape epoxy off of your teak, and so on, then you have been forewarned.
Plan ahead and use painter's tape and you may save some cleanup.

OTOH, if you want to finish all of the wood with clear epoxy and then overcoat with fine UV varnish, that will work to conceal the thumbprints after a light sanding. In this last case, leave out the cabosil, since it makes sanding really laborious.

Criminy, thinking about this is getting me tired......
Cheers ~ 9.6

[SVRealityCheck]

The suggestion of toothpicks sounds a little Jed Clampett, but that’s actually the standard solution among woodworkers and construction. It’s surprising how such a goofy, simple idea can get the job done. The bronze rub rails on my Tayana 42 had a couple dozen loose or missing screws that I fixed this way. Break off a few toothpicks and stuff them into the worn out hole, making sure they are flush with the surface. The screw will regain a satisfying bite as it makes room for itself by crushing the relatively soft toothpicks.

[Ninedotsix]

Done that, too!
Daddy always had a match stick.
I haven’t carried any for over 50 years, but, you can certainly whittle a spline to stick in there…even out of teak, imagine that.
Fair Winds

[Chuck34]

Originally Posted by dougweibel

For spots that don't show, like cabinet hinge screws, I've used toothpicks and wood glue. Just paint the toothpicks with wood glue, tap as many as you can into the hole to fill it, and cut whatever sticks out flush. When you put the new screw in you usually do not need a pilot hole as the toothpicks are pretty soft wood.

I’ve been using the toothpick method for many years. Sometimes with glue, sometimes without…depends on the job at hand. Has never failed me.

[snippet]

I found wood golf tees work pretty well in wood if the hole accommodates the size. Lubricate one with water proof glue or epoxy, tap it in and cut it flush with a chisel or fine tooth saw. Drill the proper size with a self centering bit and presto- keeno.

[MikeHoncho]

Don’t use epoxy it is too brittle. Use wood glue and toothpicks or dowels depending on the size.

[svfinlandia]

Originally Posted by dougweibel

For spots that don't show, like cabinet hinge screws, I've used toothpicks and wood glue. Just paint the toothpicks with wood glue, tap as many as you can into the hole to fill it, and cut whatever sticks out flush. When you put the new screw in you usually do not need a pilot hole as the toothpicks are pretty soft wood.

I don't know that I'd want to do this somewhere that shows unless you are sure the fastener heads will cover it.

The toothpick idea has always worked well for me. I have always just driven them into the hole with no glue.
I will use glue the next time!

Al, S/V Finlandia

[Rumrace]

Sorry I did not read everyone’s ideas but a threadcert nutcert helicoil to inset a new thread but they can do more damage than good. Soak the holes in minwax Wood preserver first. It’s like very thin epoxy designed to penetrate then petrify the wood. No use the appropriate thread insert.

[Rumrace]

I fabricate boat parts in 3D with various materials including a stronger version of nylon with UV resistance. The nylon bits on coach roof slide in aluminum tracks eventually get brittle and are hard to replace. Some nylon clips held screens in. I’m collecting 3D data to be able to replace these worn or degrading parts with a carbon fibre supported nylon. Prevents shrinkage and cracking with age. Still has self lubricating properties.

[Dave_S]

+1 for Cheechako's suggestion.

For a proper job, I'd use hex drive (Alen key) SS and glue them in to seal it. If several of the original screws failed they were either over tightened or the the fixing material isn't fit for purpose, these will give you more strength.

[MikeHoncho]

I would not use the threaded inserts to replace a bunch of small weed screws . Alignment because a issue, expense, they are over kill and easier, more practical fixed are out there. If it’s holding heavy fixtures or you have to take the fasteners out repeatedly then yes.

[bkrizmanic]

Trim carpenters showed me once to use a wooded match shaft, I've used teak/oak shavings, just push it into the screw hole, not sticking out and screw in your piece

[sinnerman]

Glue some toothpicks or pieces thereof in the hole with Titebond wood glue.