Beginner Boat Refitting, vol. I - The Hull

[TheLastUnicorn]

I’ve attached a few photos to show what I’m working with. Boat is a 20’ Vivacity masthead sloop.

I’ve just begun to demo and scrape the hull. Ive decided that rather than to take out the punky sections of rub rail and try to patch them back in, I’m going to demo the entire rub rail off and replace it, temporarily I hope, with a cheesy rubber one. Since the entire boat needs an overhaul right now, I’m trying to avoid refitting it with anything that will require regular, labor-intensive maintenance.

I’ve been advised that in order to do a thorough job of painting the hull and to get a lasting result, I need to take everything off, all fittings and such, so that I can paint the hull UNDER everything, instead of painting up to all of the fittings and whatnot, as that creates an opportunity for water to get under my new paint.

While I’m as utterly ignorant of boats and sailing as could possibly be, I’m not entirely unsupervised. I have a pair of knowledgeable friends offering teasing, criticism, a healthy amount of ribbing and occasionally, advice. From what I have read of the sailing community, I hope to make more through my stumbling adventures, whether virtual or in-the-flesh.

The existing conditions are that the rub rail is extremely punky in numerous areas. It’ll be easy enough to demo off. The bolts are accessible from the inside of the boat, however, in the last couple of paint jobs, they have clearly been painted over and are corroded. My handlers tell me to, rather than trying to unbolt the entire apparatus, just demo off the punky rub rail and cut the screws and replace them with the new rub rail. Having begun to demo off the rub rail, I find there is (you should be able to see it in the pictures, some kind of a stainless or brass rail underneath the rub rail. Its been painted over in the past. Do I need to remove that metal rail, too, in order to paint the hull (properly)? Will new stainless screws be horribly expensive and worth the additional labor to salvage (I’m guessing not, due to the amount of labor not only in extracting them, but then in cleaning them).

Advice on the paint job: Is there a “right way” to pick the colors? Does there NEED, for any reason, to be a different color below the waterline versus above? Is there a traditional color and paint scheme for this particular boat that I should adhere to? Is there a reason I can not just paint it to my vision of an all-over bright blue hull? I now that anti-fouling paint needs to be used, but does anyone have a recommendation of a particular brand of paint for ease of use, lasting result. I’ve already spent a good bit of time researching gelcoat versus paint, the pros and cons of each, and paint has come out on top for my particular boat and experience level.

[leboyd]

The more you remove, generally the better the paint job.

New screws shouldn’t be that expensive.

The beauty of your paint choice and scheme is that it’s your choice because it’s your boat. You can paint the whole hull the same color or use ten. Enjoy your work and then enjoy your boat. You’re only reason for not doing it the way you want it is when you plan to sell. It’s like a house. You can paint the bedrooms whatever color you want, but some possible buyers may not buy because of the color. Same with your boat. If you’re not planning to sell anytime soon, do it however you want.

[Tayana42]

Traditionalists will tell you to paint the topsides (the hull above the waterline) white. The famous naval architect Nathaniel Herreshoff said there are only two colors to paint a boat, white and black, and only a fool would paint a boat black. Many people advise against dark colors because of heat absorption from strong sunlight. Others who sail in cooler climates say it isn’t a problem. Lots of race boats have dramatic graphics on their hulls in any number of colors. I say it’s your boat. Paint it anyway you like. Perhaps find a mural artist to paint horses charging toward the bow.

[AndyEss]

I'd suggest rather than replacing the rotted rub rail with a temporary cheesy rubber one, you decide on a decent replacement rubrail material, and do the job once, and move on.
A rubber rub rail can make perfect sense, instead of the original wood one.
You ask about painting the hull properly. Paint is about esthetics, and protection from uv. It isnt about waterproofing, unless you are applying a barrier coat to seal a bad gelcoat. Im not sure why you would necessarily want to remove rigging attachment plates, thruhulls, etc to paint the hull. You arent restoring a Rolls Royce that will appreciate because of your work. This boat is a starter boat for you to go sailing. Don't waste your time restoring to some state of perfection a boat that was probably a Chevy or Yugo. Its a waste of time and boatyards are filled with partially completed project boats.
As much fun as it might be to work on boats, it is far, far more fun to just go sailing in a basically ok looking, safe boat.
Unless you plan to continue in a professional career as a boatbuilder, just consider this boat as a stepping stone, like a beater first car for a 16 year old new driver.
As long as the hull is structural sound, and doesn't leak, do some sanding, slap some paint on it, go sailing.