Bauer 10 refit

[hard-a-ground]

Use Dinghy refit... Bauer 10.

Just brought home a Bauer 10 as a mooring tender, it came on a small trailer. Refit and updates needed. As most things go, the previous owner did not pay attention to very much regarding maintenance.

Perhaps this forum can keep me on the straight and narrow. I recently retired and have time this week to work a project.

Some items...

... Oars - sand & refinish the wood, wash and treat the leather. Obvious.
... Blemishes -seal with patches of fiberglass, let dry, paint over. Not going to play with gelcoat.
... Teak features - expose clean wood with fittings removed, question: varnish? oil? if so, what product? Has this debate ever gone away?
... Centerboard trunk. The hull has a liner design as best i can tell. The centerboard trunk visible hull liner portion was cracked at the aft end, primitive repair has also failed. leaves an open crack allowing water passage.
... Cloth layers & resin ? (remove previous work as best i can first).
... How do i ensure repair doesn't fail quickly after?
... Called Bauer about this one. follow up next week I think.
... Drain system for region between the hulls? Not obvious how invasive water can be removed. When water gets inside the liner, how do i clear it?
... sailing rig update. It appears the manufacturer has a modern 75 sq ft macroni rig available. The original lanteen rig - likely works. Need to test drive lanteen rig first before getting rid of it out of hand i think.
... centerboard is loose when dropped. A lot of travel there. Hmmm.

disassembly and cleaning to start.

[hard-a-ground]

centerboard hinge pin appears to be plastic. Fairly well chewed up from the forces acting on it. Hmm...

[hard-a-ground]

Pretty much done, this model ('89) had a weaker centerboard trunk join to the deck. Added a few layers of cloth and glass. Hopefully holds.

Oiled the teak. (not the satisfying smooth finish, but hopefully is effective and easy to renew)
Touched up the various gauges in the glass.
New shock cord for centerboard tension. (interestingly there are two blocks in the trunk, if the skipper tensions the shock cord, they should see the centerboard top rest between the blocks and provide a stable configuration).

Need yet shock cord stoppers to preserve the downward tension.
Complete the surface painting
Bailer gasket replacement. Cut the pieces required and glue them into place.
Re-assemble & Launch.

According to Bauer, I should be able to lift the transom and have all water between the hulls drain into the bow compartment. Good trick to know after i launch.

The sailing rig appears all there - small mainsail and jib.

[bauer10]

we just brought home a 2000 bauer 10. no rigging. could you help us with pics or diagram for rigging? appreciate any help thank you

[Hunter_25]

Originally Posted by bauer10

we just brought home a 2000 bauer 10. no rigging. could you help us with pics or diagram for rigging? appreciate any help thank you

Hi Bauer10, Did you find what you were looking for since last summer or is this still on your to-do list? I just picked up a '93 Bauer 10 and have rigged it up before, so I could take some photos and post when the weather's nice again.

Piggybacking off of hard-a-ground's original post, I have a couple things I need to do, as well.

Oars - Mine didn't come with oars, so I'm ordering a 7' pair from the original supplier, American Traders. The oar lock receivers are still on the boat, but I need the rings as well.

Rigging/etc. - I'll need to replace some sheets and lines, add the random screw, and a new thru-deck fairlead, so I'll be going through that, as well. I wish I had a manual, though I don't know how helpful it'd be.

Retractable centerboard - Mine wasn't working, so I've removed it to find the elastic cord is bad inside. The centerboard housing sits between a couple of Styrofoam boards, which I'll probably replace since they're disintegrating a bit. I'd like something other than Styrofoam, but since it'll likely be partially submerged, I'm not sure what I could use. Ideas anyone?

Mast "step" - The biggest problem with mine is that the receiver for the mast was broken out, so I'm going to do my first-ever fiberglass work by repairing and re-glassing that section, also reinforcing it with a couple extra layers of 1708 most likely. Fortunately I still have the "Plug" or whatever it's called.

Motor - Bauer says up to 2hp but I'm wondering if that's due to the weight of an average 2hp? Otherwise, if the weight is in tolerance, there are a few between 2-3hp that give a lot more options. The ones I'm considering are:
- New - Coleman 2.6, Honda 2.3, Suzuki 2.5-3.5, Tohatsu 2.5-3.5, Torqueedo 1103C, and ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus (Evo).
- Used - Honda 2hp, Mercury 2.2hp, Cruise n Carry 1.5, or whatever else comes up.
Am I correct to assume that as long as the motor weight is good and I'm not overpowering it to where there are control issues, higher hp would just be unhelpful and not have any other negative affect? That's all I've seen reported is that additional hp just doesn't help some vessels, but I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has powered a Bauer 8, 10, or 12. The Bauer website mentions custom electric motors. Anyone use another other electric motor?

[svMarite]

Originally Posted by bauer10

we just brought home a 2000 bauer 10. no rigging. could you help us with pics or diagram for rigging? appreciate any help thank you

Check out Sailrite. They have a sail kit.

[svMarite]

Love our dink!
I've put an ePropulsion 3hp on it and it's perfect


My sailing gaff rig gooseneck thing broke last year and I rebuilt it. Not ideal as I can't curve the fork but it works. This year I'm going to engineer replacing wood spars with aluminum.
Not cheap. I even priced out carbon fiber - fuggetaboutit!