I haven't used Awlbright or Awlspar, so I can't give any comparison between those and Awlwood. However, I am now using Awlwood. I have a fair amount of teak
- and in the past I've used Bristol, HoneyTeak, Epiphanes, and several other 'standard' varnishes for my outside brightwork. I've been disappointed in all of them - for one reason or another.
I currently use AwlWood and like bstreep
it's beginning to look like I won't use anything else on the outside brightwork. It's easy to apply in a wide variety of temp/humidity conditions. It lays down and flattens out nicely. It holds up to UV - I have some hatch
covers that I haven't touched in two years and they look (almost) like I finished them yesterday.
The application directions are straightforward - so follow them. If you're applying it to anything that can stain (e.g., gelcoat
, etc.) - note that the red or yellow primer will stain whatever it touches and will soak through paper-backed painter's tape, so use plastic tape (e.g., polyester-backed). No need to be fancy with the primer - apply with a rag or a cheap
brush - and you need only one coat (too bad I can only find it in quarts). Apply multiple topcoats as soon as the previous one 'tacks.' For me, where I live, that's usually in about 3 hours (or so) - so I can get as many as four topcoats on in a day. I usually put eight topcoats on the outside brightwork. If you want a 'mirror' shine and simply letting the AwlWood flatten doesn't do it for you - use 3M polishing compound. I use 3M buffing and polishing compound with my 8" buffer - using the appropriate foam pad - they're color-coded. I suppose you could use the 3M Perfect-It, but I haven't tried that so I can't give advice
I'm right behind you. I'm currently making a cockpit
table out of Padauk (since I couldn't find an acceptable piece of red zebrawood or Peruvian walnut) and I plan to finish it with AwlWood.