Attaching Wood to Fiberglass - Watermaker Platform Questions

[SVAphrodite]

Also just discovered PL Marine. I use PL Premium on land and love it. Could this be the real thing?


https://www.loctiteproducts.com/prod...n/2016891.html

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by SVAphrodite

Also just discovered PL Marine. I use PL Premium on land and love it. Could this be the real thing?


https://www.loctiteproducts.com/prod...n/2016891.html

Loctite has a very good name but they have a huge range so I couldn't advise.

If I was fixing a bulkhead (or platform) to a hull I would fiberglass it using polyester resin. But I would be asking myself how much load does this have to carry and if it collapses what is a likely outcome.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcrHsXSqdIw

[Nic Homan]

Your plan sounds eminently doable.

I would suggest you think about the future when installing the ply. For example is there any other equipment you might like to put on the boat. It would be easier to put in a larger section of ply now to allow for additional equipment later.

[centaur114]

FWIW, I use polyurethane construction adhesive for all my boat projects. Doesn’t sag upon application and the curing is enhanced by water. Never had a wood to grp joint fail. Loctite PL is my go-to.

[GeneralGamble]

I just used sikaflex to mount pads for my Watermaker. Maybe I over simplified but boatbuilders use the stuff to stick boats together so seemed good enough for me? Project was four years ago and we’ve since done a lap of the South Pacific and nothing has moved. I think I used 291 marine adhesive

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by centaur114

FWIW, I use polyurethane construction adhesive for all my boat projects..

Originally Posted by GeneralGamble

I just used sikaflex to mount pads for my Watermaker...
... I think I used 291 marine adhesive

“Sikaflex-291" [‘292' has ± twice the tensile strength of '291'], and 3M “5200" are both 1-component polyurethane sealants.

[jen1722terry]

Don't know if anyone else has recommended MAS epoxy. I've used it for decades for one simple reason: you can add additional coats without having to clean off the amine blush, which saves a step.

Good luck with your project.

[captlloyd]

Originally Posted by SVAphrodite

Gotcha! Will research how this works!




Got it! I have much to learn here! Do you like the peel ply to prevent this?



Yea, I got that part, but wasn't sure if you were talking about something else...I wouldn't have thought a wire bit on a drill lightly would remove enough of the gel coat. Any tricks for knowing when to stop when removing the gel coat?

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a 4-1/2 inch grinder for about $30. Buy a couple of #40 flap discs, it will go through that gel coat like butter.

[Disailor]

Couple of tips:
Operate resin & hardener Pumps slowly to a void sucking air into the pumps.
Each molecule of resin has to link to a molecule of hardener so stir while counting slowly to 100. stirring too fast will trap air bubbles in the mix.
Spreading resin with a sqeegee will tend to annoyingly displace the cloth I Paint the surface with the resin, lay on the cloth & using a brush with a stippling (poking or a light jabbing) motion to iduce resin to soak in turning cloth clear. Apply enough resin to fill cloth by brushing LIGHTLY & stippling.
Dust hands with talcum powder will ease plastic gloves over hands (two layers of gloves are far more durable than one). Dust wrists with talc to prevent ground glass fibers from getting into skin.
White vinegar is the ONLY solvent for removing resin from the skin.
Tyvek suits/clothing can be dusted in a clothes dryer on air fluff (no heat) for an hour & with a tennis ball.
60 grit sandpaper or disc is quick so use a light touch. Once gelcoat is removed enough to see weave of glass mat grind only a little more so that adhesion area is mostly mat fibers.
I dont trust Thickened resin to penetrate mat well enough so I soak fibers with unthickened resin/hardnr mix & wait untill partially cured yet still tacky. The application of thickened resin can be applied within 24 to 36 hours without washing off the amine. The two layers will bond chemically.
Hang up a sheet of plastic with tape to prevent airborne ground glass from migrating to the rest of the boat.

[jen1722terry]

And try your best not to get the liquid resin on your skin, which could lead to allergic contact dermatitis. This can be fairly serious. It seems not to be a problem with occassional drips of resin on the skin then WHAM, the itchy rash appears after a week or two and can last several weeks.

Tyvek, gloves and good masks/eye protection are relatively cheap.

I know of one boat builder who can no longer work with resins for this reason.

And try to keep kids and pets away from the liquid resin.

Best of luck

[coopec43]

MEKP is the hardener


First Aid
MEKP attacks eyes-Protect eyes while using. If splashed into the eyes immediately flood with water for 15 minutes and seek medical advice. This is very important as permanent blindness can result within 15 seconds.
If swallowed do not induce vomiting, give glass of water and seek medical advice
Avoid skin contact-Wear protective clothing. If skin contact does occur, remove all contaminated clothing and wash skin thoroughly.
Seek medical advice.


https://www.fibreglass-resin-sales.c...EKP-sheet1.pdf


It would be a good idea to have a bucket of clean water available to immediately douse your eyes if needed