Apply Anti-Fouling then Re-Splash - How Quickly ?

[Gooosberry]

Any views on how long I can wait after applying anti-fouling before going back to the water?

I have had some advice that no longer than 48 hours - if that is so (is it) what does the delay cause/do - and is there any way to extend the time?

[Vasco]

Depends on the type of anti-fouling paint. Read the instructions.

[barnakiel]

It is all on the can or else read the spec sheet.

b.

[minaret]

You want the PDS not the MSDS for this info. Here is the product data sheet for my bottom paint. Max splash time is 60 days for it.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...ds/1127706.pdf

[Gooosberry]

the paint in question is marketed as International Paints - Unipro - I have researched as much as I can and read the instructions on the can - and NO NOTE of any timelimit for re-immersion, only notes about going back too quickly!

[senormechanico]

I asked a Pettit guy one time about why one had to wait 8 hours or whatever.
He said the paint would cure underwater just fine, but the wait time was so the travelift straps wouldn't harm it.

[osirissail]

Your answer is contained in the product sheet:http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/datasheet...Uni-Pro_GB.pdf

DRYING/OVERCOATING INFORMATION
Drying
- - - - - - - - - - - 5ºC - - - 15ºC - - - - 23ºC - - - 35ºC
Touch Dry [ISO] 1hrs - - -45mins - - -30mins - -20mins
Immersion - - - - 7hrs - - - -5hrs - - - 2hrs - - - -2hrs
Note:Max. Immersion Times are as follows: 5-15°C - 3 mths; 23°C - 2 mths; 35°C - 1 mth
- - - - - - - - -
Normally "Max. Immersion Time" means how long you can wait after painting before the paint starts to oxidize and lose effectiveness. So you have "window" between the "Immersion" and "Max Immersion" to work with depending upon the ambient temperature.

[GordMay]

Uni-Pro Antifouling will be touch dry in between 20 minutes to an hour, and may be immersed (boat launched) within 2 Hours (@ 35ºC) to 7 Hours (@
5ºC).
Maximum delay to immersion varies between 1 - 3 Months, depending upon temperature.

See ➥ http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/datasheet...Uni-Pro_GB.pdf

[sailorboy1]

I was going to look at multi-season paint this year and put it on when the boat gave out of the water in Nov thinking a multi-season wuld be OK to lanuch in the spring.

But sounds like a no go from this thread.

[osirissail]

Originally Posted by Don Lucas

I was going to look at multi-season paint this year and put it on when the boat gave out of the water in Nov thinking a multi-season wuld be OK to lanuch in the spring.

But sounds like a no go from this thread.

It is really just a function of the particular paint you choose for multi-season. Some hard paints can remain out of the water for extended times while others cannot. Same with "ablative" paints.
- - Even with a hard paint such as Petit Trinidad which oxidizes when left out of water too long, you can get multi-season use with winter time hauled out storage. What you need to do is before re-launching the boat, you use a "scotch-brite" pad to thorough rub the bottom paint to remove the surface oxidized layer and expose a fresh active layer underneath.

[JamuJoe]

I like the "scotch-brite" pad suggestion. My bottom with two coats of Petit Trinidad over primer was only in the water for three months when we hauled out and left her on the hard in Mexico for 18 months. (Not the plan - my extended absence due to medical issues). Now the bottom paint is heavily oxidized & eroded by sun and rain. I'm loath to let the shipyard where she is stored have at her with sanding discs. I wonder if a good scrub with "scotch-brite" pads would be safer and leave me with good adhesion for fresh Petit Trididad? Any experience or suggestions on this approach?

[osirissail]

Originally Posted by JamuJoe

I like the "scotch-brite" pad suggestion. My bottom with two coats of Petit Trinidad over primer was only in the water for three months when we hauled out and left her on the hard in Mexico for 18 months. (Not the plan - my extended absence due to medical issues). Now the bottom paint is heavily oxidized & eroded by sun and rain. I'm loath to let the shipyard where she is stored have at her with sanding discs. I wonder if a good scrub with "scotch-brite" pads would be safer and leave me with good adhesion for fresh Petit Trididad? Any experience or suggestions on this approach?

Either way works - with a "scotch-brite" pad you can scuff off the oxidized layer and then put a new layer of Trinidad SR on the bottom. I recommend the "SR" version for its slime resistance chemical.
- - With a random orbital sander and 120grit paper you can do the same scuffing quicker than by hand. But like any machine, if it is not operated with care it can dig in and remove a lot more than just the oxidized surface layer.

[GordMay]

See the Petit Instructions
➥ http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...ds/1167706.pdf

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by GordMay

See the Petit Instructions
➥ http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...ds/1167706.pdf

Nothing in those directions says the boat can be out of the water more than 60 days and that it's OK to just Scott-Brite the surface if so.

[GordMay]

APPLICATION TEMP: 40° F. Min. / 90°F. Max.
DRY TIME* (HOURS):
Temp. ~ To Recoat ~ To Launch
90°F ~ 2Hrs ~ 8Hrs
70°F ~ 4 ~ 16
40°F ~ 6 ~ 24
*The above dry times are minimums.
Trinidad SR Antifouling may be recoated after the minimum time shown and launched up to 60 days after painting.

Previously Painted Surfaces:
If the previous coating is in good condition, thoroughly sand with 80 grit paper then solvent clean with 120 Brushing Thinner to remove residue. Apply two finish coats of Trinidad SR.
If the previous coating is soft or in poor condition, remove to the bare surface by sanding or using Pettit 9051 Bio Blast Paint Remover. Proceed with appropriate bare system as described below. Old tin copolymers should be removed or sealed with Pettit 6627 Tie Coat Primer before applying Trinidad SR Antifouling.