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27-04-2004, 07:02
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#1
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Macatawa Michigan
Boat: Amanda Faye 61' Custom Irwin aftcockpit ketch
Posts: 1,415
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Anti-seize
While I was in Florida I asked about what they did to keep stainless steel and aluminum from seizing. This may be well known in salt water but here in the Great lakes we do not have the problem. Anyway, this does work because my mast had some parts done. They coat everything with 3m 5200. It keeps the parts insulated from each other. The parts that were coated on my mast came off well, those that were not coated broke. I am getting good at drilling and tapping.
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27-04-2004, 10:48
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#2
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 51,775
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5200?
3M "5200", like other Polyurethanes, is not a "coating" but a BONDING sealant. I
Use an "Anti-Sieze" compound when threading S/S into Aluminum.
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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27-04-2004, 12:03
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#3
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Macatawa Michigan
Boat: Amanda Faye 61' Custom Irwin aftcockpit ketch
Posts: 1,415
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Yes ,5200. That is what they are doing in Florida. As I understand it works better than most anything.
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27-04-2004, 12:48
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#4
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Now on the Dark Side: Stink Potter.
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Palm Coast, Florida
Boat: Sea Hunt 234 Ultra
Posts: 3,997
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Hmm, never seen folks use 5200 for anti-seize in here in Florida.
I use Tef-Gel or some such stuff.
Maybe 5200 could do a good job on bolts, as the bonding would not really be a factor, except if the hardware, winches and and tangs, etc are really bedded with 5200 also..?
Will run it by my rigger and boat mechanick buddies...Of course, if one starts doing it now, won't know if it works good or not till another 5 years or so.
Yes, the seize thing when SS and Alu corrodes together is a problem...Combine that with crevice corrosion and ya just break the bolts off when ya try to turn 'em to remove stuff.
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27-04-2004, 13:14
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#5
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Macatawa Michigan
Boat: Amanda Faye 61' Custom Irwin aftcockpit ketch
Posts: 1,415
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CSYman . I am only repeating what I have been told. But some of the bolts on my rig were dipped in 5200 and they came out without much trouble. The parts that were not .. did not. I plan to use 5200 when I re assemble my rig. I do welcome any advise.
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27-04-2004, 13:46
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#6
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Now on the Dark Side: Stink Potter.
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Palm Coast, Florida
Boat: Sea Hunt 234 Ultra
Posts: 3,997
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If it works, fine...But how do ya know the white stuff is 5200?
Did the previous ower tell ya?
Or did ya talk to the yard that serviced yer boat last?
Or the manufactors?
Just curious, not knocking the idea or 5200.
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27-04-2004, 13:51
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#7
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Macatawa Michigan
Boat: Amanda Faye 61' Custom Irwin aftcockpit ketch
Posts: 1,415
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I must say that I did assume that what I have on the bolts is 5200. It feels like 5200. Anyway the people that I stayed with in Florida have been using 5200 for many years and say it works better than anything out there. So I am just passing that along for everyone's consideration.
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29-04-2004, 16:00
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Darwin NT Aust
Posts: 33
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Anti Seize
Never Seize is good gear but a bit messy I have been using a lanolin based grease that is awesome and so far have had no problems with it, although we live in the tropics, so I dont know how it would go in colder climates. Shane
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29-04-2004, 23:50
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Philippines in the winters
Boat: It’s in French Polynesia now
Posts: 11,372
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Irwinsailor
That white stuff could be white lead. It's illegal to sell over the counter now, but a rigger might be able to get some being an industrial mechanic.
Anit-seize was developed as a replacement for white lead. It's a thick white paste that will dry hard if left out.
But it's not rubbery like 5200. But the best anti-seize ever made. I still have some left over from the old days. It works great for threading SS.
........................................_/)
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01-05-2004, 08:32
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#10
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Macatawa Michigan
Boat: Amanda Faye 61' Custom Irwin aftcockpit ketch
Posts: 1,415
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Delmarry, The white stuff on some of the parts on my boat were rubbery like 5200. I don't think it is white lead.
Mike , what is Smiths like to work with? It looks like it is harder to work with than other products.
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06-05-2004, 00:57
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 27
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5200
all this talk of 5200. just the other day an experienced long time cruiser "gave me a talkin' to " about using it anywhere onboard. He said he has "banned" it from his boat comletely. Due to it being an adhesive, and a good one, it tends to make things too permanent and you will end up destroying whatever you applied it to trying to replace, rebed, repair, or otherwise undo what you previously did with the 5200. since most of what we apply to the boat is only permanent in our dreams, this made some sense. Sooner or later I will wan't to take that fitting or whatever back off, and after applying 5200 this may be quite difficult. this made me kinda sad as i keep a good stock of it onboard (kinda like duct tape...i use it everywhere) has anyone else heard such strong opions of it?
__________________
Cap'n Nik
"Destination Unknown"
West Bay Marina
Olympia, WA
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06-05-2004, 11:24
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cheaspeake Bay
Posts: 93
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5200 is a terrific adhesive. There are lots of things better to use for a sealant like 3m 101 for a non-permanent seal.
I only use 5200 for stuff I NEVER want to remove.
__________________
Don't use a big word when a diminutive
one will suffice.
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08-05-2004, 20:24
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Near Calgary
Posts: 3
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I rememember reading the Cruising World article about Nigel Calder's total refit of Nada many years ago. His teak caprail had been bedded in 5200, and he was forced to remove it 2-3 inches at a time with a crowbar. What I've read is that 5200 is a great adhesive, but not as good for bedding because it sticks TOO well.
As for providing an insulating lubricant between dissimilar metals, I've heard Tef-Gel recommended several times.
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30-07-2004, 18:46
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Marathon, Florida
Boat: Cape Dory 28, "Night Wind"
Posts: 353
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Count me in as a fan for Tef-Gel, when putting stainless fittings into aluminum ... for bedding I use 5200 on anything that I consider permanent ... use Life Caulk on everything else. Lanacote is neet stuff, use it on the threads of my turnbuckles ... but ... I don't buy it under that name, go to any pharmacy and ask for "anhydrous lanolin" same stuff, 1/4 the price, or less. Walgreens had it on the shelf.
L S/V Eva Luna
Bob
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05-08-2004, 13:23
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#15
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 193
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the other name for 5200 is
"F*#K the next guy in a tube".
only use it if you don't want ever to take things apart. If you use it to stick wood together, you will break the wood apart.
shiny stainless will bond less well. use something sensable like 101. (Brion Toss told me so).
rich
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