Anchor chain locker drains.

[Davidhoy]

For some bizarre reason, my chain locker drains into the bilge - WTF! I'm on the hard for bottom paint and other preventative maintenance, so now would be a great opportunity to install external drains, and permanently plug the internal one. I found some stainless scupper drains that look perfect for the job. When installing them should I angle them directly down towards the waterline, or down and aft at about 45 degrees?

[donradcliffe]

I'd mount them with the opening aft. However, the picture looks like a fuel tank vent with an internal screen.

[Jim Cate]

considering the crap that sometimes comes up with the chain , I'd want something with no bends and a larger diameter. It's far too easy to clog something like what you show, and then your chain locker starts filling, and that ain't good! Our drains are simple holes through the hull, properly sealed, of course, and about 16 mm diameter. Only had one clog in 14 years of full time usage.

Jim

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

considering the crap that sometimes comes up with the chain , I'd want something with no bends and a larger diameter. It's far too easy to clog something like what you show, and then your chain locker starts filling, and that ain't good! Our drains are simple holes through the hull, properly sealed, of course, and about 16 mm diameter. Only had one clog in 14 years of full time usage.

Jim

Thanks, Jim! Agreed that a locker full of water is a bad idea, hence the desire to limit the entry of water. How do you keep the locker from filling with water when the bow gets buried? With the cowls over the openings it will tend to limit the amount of water than can get forced into the locker. I intend to install two drains, one on either side - the likelihood of both getting clogged at the same time is pretty slim.

-David

[deblen]

I put a drop in plywood floor that sits an inch or so above the grp floor. This reduces the splash effect when driving into head seas.
No problems so far.

[lifemiles]

angled down/aft is probably better I think. I agree about the clogging factor, perhaps it helps to build a larger screen in the locker, maybe create a double floor where chain sits on and let water seep through ?

[boatman1]

Is it my imagination that I recall that a "proper" installation for rope/chain locker drains is for the starboard scupper be plumbed to an outlet on the port bow and vice versa? Thoery is that this configuration would obviate the possibility of backflow when heeled. The locker does need draining to somewhere as the anchor line deck pipe won't prevent green water over the bow from getting in.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by boatman1

Is it my imagination that I recall that a "proper" installation for rope/chain locker drains is for the starboard scupper be plumbed to an outlet on the port bow and vice versa? Thoery is that this configuration would obviate the possibility of backflow when heeled. The locker does need draining to somewhere as the anchor line deck pipe won't prevent green water over the bow from getting in.

You may be confusing these with cockpit scupper drains.

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

considering the crap that sometimes comes up with the chain , I'd want something with no bends and a larger diameter. It's far too easy to clog something like what you show, and then your chain locker starts filling, and that ain't good! Our drains are simple holes through the hull, properly sealed, of course, and about 16 mm diameter. Only had one clog in 14 years of full time usage.

Jim

KISS as Jim says. My drain got blocked years ago from rust from an old anchor that had been sitting in the locker ('cuz I was remiss in removing it). It was rather simple to unplug the block with a coat hanger. Big, straight out the side above the waterline. Don't worry about water getting when sailing, 'cuz rarely is the top of the anchor locker sealed. Water comes in from the top, rarely the bottom.

[ggordon1250]

I agree with Jim. I did the same on my boat. If you hull is cored make sure you solid glass the hole so as to not allow any water to get to the core. Cover the opening with a small clamshell at a 45 degree aft angle and paint it the same color as the hull.

[wrwakefield]

David,

In case it is of interest...

Our current boat has two drain holes [~1 1/2" dia] in the anchor locker. [One on each side of the bow]

They are each covered with a heavy [PVC?] cowling facing aft. They do not ship water when underway plowing into head seas, and have not yet clogged.

The manufacturer also offset the holes so one is higher than the other- ostensibly so if the lower drain plugged, the upper would continue to flow [at least until it plugged...] The bottom of the higher drain hole begins at the top of the lower drain hole. [i.e., they are offset by their diameters.]

I cropped some photos [below] from a recent haulout to demonstrate what I am attempting to describe above. I'll also include an in the water bow shot for reference.

Best wishes with your project.

Cheers! Bill

[stnick]

David , I had the same problem with my Morgan 384 . I installed a false floor small triainge to block water flow. Than glassed it in . I was tilted to port side so i just drilled a Hole 1/2 inch so water could drain. I have a anchor wash down so I wash the sand Florida off and it all goes out like 15 inches above the water line.
I hated the idea of sand and mud under the deck on the way to the bilge. Just the sand and dampness alone were my reasons for a change. Charlie Morgan did some short cuts. !
Lee Nicholas / WindRose M 384 1982 -Tarpon Springs Fla

[barnakiel]

Ours are just plain holes drilled thru the hull and epoxied inside. No do only if you have cored hull.

b.