Aluminum mast prep

[Tatheelrod22]

I've finished my boom, gaff, and headsail foot and they look great. This project is a first for me and since those pieces were small enough for me to do most of the work inside and when I was standing between coats outside I had great weather, the mast is going to be a little different and I'm already facing a difference maybe you can help me with.

I probably have a little more than one hour of sanding before I'm ready to wipe clean, wipe down completely with recommended Interlux solvent and then apply their Interprotect 2000E. My question is we have rain on the way and I probably won't be able to get started with the initial coat until tomorrow which will be after a few hours in the rain. Since its aluminum is there any reason to sand lightly again before coating since its aluminum, or can I just make sure it's dry, do the solvent wipe down, and then apply the 2000E coat?

Thanks for your thoughts!

[mike d.]

If you go to the Interlux sight They have that info there. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. It says no more than an hour after sanding. We'll see, as it took me that long to sand the stick, and then 2+ hrs to put on the 1st coat. The problem is that aluminum will start oxidizing, after the 1st hr.

[GordMay]

See (Pg 11) ➥ http://www.yachtpaint.com/Literature...tb-usa-eng.pdf
Paint within 2 hours of sanding/blasting.

[Tatheelrod22]

Thanks folks. That only applies to the first coat right? After that follow instructions for the next coat?
It's getting late in the day and since I sanded with 40 grit and Interlux recommends 80 tomorrow I'll do the fresh sanding with 60 , then wipe, wipe down with solvent, then coat. Anybody think I'm asking for a problem when I say there are probably going to be 6 total coats all in, so having it sanded to 60 as opposed to 80 will give it a little more texture to adhere to, and with that many coats(plus having sanded the primer coats coming next I should still have a smooth finish.

Sand to 80 or follow the logic I just laid out?

[barnakiel]

I have only seen them painted immediately or acid/primed and then painted over immediately.

b.

[mike d.]

I did it with 60, the only issue if you roll/and or brush is that the platelets in the primer seem to cause an orange peel effect. I talked to Dale at Interlux, and he this would happen. I applied 2 coats 2000E, and for me till spring 1 coat Primekote. If you are applying 6 coats, are you talking all 2000E, or 2000E, and then Primekote. According to Interlux/YachtPaint, 2000E should be top coated with Primekote, then Perfection.

[Tatheelrod22]

Thanks for your reply. When I say six that is total coats and approximate. I'm thinking two of 2000E two of prekote, then two or three off Brightside.

What did you do about the orange peel effect? I think I experienced some of that also. I'm thinking I'll put the second cost on tomorrow and then when it's good and dry sand those smooth before starting with prekote, even though the instructions are I don't have to sand. Is this what you would do"?

[mike d.]

If you have already put on a coat, you have to sand before next coat. As far as the orange peel I only have 1 coat of Primekote right now, and will sand for next coat, to get rid of some of the orange peel. If I need to recoat with Primekote again, that's OK. You can thin the Primekote to make it flow better, which I did. I'm thinking that the next coat should level out, enough, so the Perfection will lay flat. I won't know till spring! I don't think you should sand the 2000e hard. just enough to get a good bond. The PrimeKote is the build up primer.

[SunnySky]

I have never painted my entire mast before but I have found after surface preparation with sanding or a stainless steel wire wheel that Zince Chromate primer (for example Moeller) followed by plain old Rustolem Enamel rattle cans works REALLY well for touch ups that have been pretty indistinguishable from the original paint job for years (first used about 4 years ago and going strong..).

David
sv Sunny Sky Hailing From Cold Bay AK

[Tatheelrod22]

Having finished my boom, gaff, and jib foot, and initially loving the look, I'm starting to wonder if I should have added a flattening agent to the Interlux Bristol Beige? I can still easily remove the hardware and sand/repaint an additional coat or two with that in there if I like. I'm about ready to start final coats on the mast however so I'll need to decide soon. In my spare time if not in a position to be working on one of my boats then I'm on my IPAD looking at traditional sailing craft. It appears that all the aluminum spars painted a shade of beige are all flat looking not shiny. That might happen with time I suppose. I also wonder if the mast hoops (I've decided to stay with that plan after momentarily wavering) might have an easier time going up and down on a flatter paint? Surely the finish is going to "feel" the same regardless so is this possible friction difference a ridiculous thought?

Lastly, I think maybe as the hoops do their inevitable smudging of the mast, will they possibly be less obvious with a flatter finish?

The right answer could be none of these points are valid, and it could be that some or all are, I'm just looking for opinions and thoughts.