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Old 02-10-2017, 08:24   #16
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Re: Advice on this toerail joint

Personally, I would not add wood dust to that joint. Just epoxy. It will be stronger. You can fill with epoxy and you will have a line either way, which is just fine.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:35   #17
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Re: Advice on this toerail joint

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Mason View Post
...I would probably have reversed the scarf joint so the spring back was against the joint, not away from it....
I would have made the scarf in the horizontal plane, not the vertical.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:40   #18
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Re: Advice on this toerail joint

I agree with Cheechako: don't use teak wood dust; I expect it's full of the oil that makes teak what it is! And be sure to clean the mating surfaces with solvent.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:23   #19
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Re: Advice on this toerail joint

As Terra Nova said, make the joint horizontalm I'd use a locking scarf joint not the long plain scarf you've envisioned. Doing the scarf vertical is almost guaranteeing it won't last no matter the quality of the glue of the surface ratio. The plain scarf joint is typically used in masts which are typically boxed in by other sections of the mast and not as subject to delamination and UV damage.
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Old 12-01-2018, 01:37   #20
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Re: Advice on this toerail joint

Two suggestions: The scarf should be at least 10:1 or better 12:1. It should run vertically, not horizontally, through the toe rail. (If you look at the cap rail of a traditional boat, the scarf runs horizontal to the boat, but vertical to the wood grain, because the cap rail is laid flat on top of the bulwark.)

Ideally a spline would be installed blind inside the scarf joint due to the curvature induced at installation. That means that the scarf joint(s) would be made on the bench, then the whole toe rail bent to the sheer as one piece.

The best glue is Resorcinol for teak timber, i.e. not veneer, that will be exposed to moisture and therefore expansion and contraction - which is not Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique encapsulated. See the Gougeon manuals on wood expansion and epoxy.

If you must use epoxy, do not use teak dust as a filler. Reasons above are correct. Use moderate to low clamping pressure to ensure that the epoxy is not squeezed out of the joint. When using Resorcinal, use lots of glue and very high clamping pressure. This forces the glue into the wood grain, making a stronger joint.

Practice, practice, practice. Destruction test the practice pieces. Observe where and how the joint fails. That's the fun part.
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