Advice needed : glassing the deck after teak removal

[ttex]

Folks,

I could really use some advice on adding a layer of glass to the deck after removing the teak deck.

I understand the basics of laying and wetting fiberglass but I could use some advice on type of fiberglass to lay. Should I try to cut huge single pieces or patch it together? How thick?

Right now there is a good layer of glass down already but I of course had to drill a million holes that I filled with epoxy so I would want to put a layer down over it. This would be more for sealing most of the deck rather than strength.

The foredeck triangle between the most forward cabin porthole and the bowsprit moves up and down a bit when I jump on it so I definitely want to strengthen that. Extra layers? One thicker layer?

I apologize for any resemblance my post has to disjointed rambling.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

[SailingHarmonie]

If your deck flexes, the core is quite likely wet and rotten, which would not be at unusual with an old teak deck that needed removal.

You have a much bigger repair in front of you than just sealing holes. Adding any reasonable number of layers of glass to the upper surface will not make the deck significantly stiffer.

[Celestialsailor]

One question that comes to mind is what are you glassing to? Is it plywood or glass/cored decks? If the later, a thorough sounding to determine any core delamination. That repair would have to be done first. I have done that repair and did it from the top.

[ttex]

I have already drilled and filled all the holes with epoxy. The core is not rotten anywhere that I am aware of after I have fixed the spots that were rotten.

The foredeck still flexes.

I would being fiberglassing to fiberglass. The deck is fiberglass-balsa core-fiberglass. All of the deck is stiff except the foredeck and it barely flexes. From what I can tell it is not from the core being rotten but I am open to having my mind changed. I am not an expert but I am pretty good at this sort of stuff.

I have visually seen the core every few inches in every spot of the deck. I did this personally. All of it.



This is what the deck looks like currently.

[s/v Jedi]

I recommend you use something like a 12 ounce biax. The stitched bi-directional is easier to finish than a woven cloth and it still reinforces.

I also recommend to use epoxy resin for better adhesion and water barrier.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t-detail/97481

[SailingHarmonie]

If the core is good, then don’t expect to make it stiffer by adding fg. Just seal it. Do not try to do it with huge pieces, but work in easy to manage sections. You certainly do not to add a lot of thickness. If you have good structural integrity, all you are doing is bridging the holes. The exact layup is not going to be critical.

[ttex]

Appreciate everyone's input so far. I'm trying to do the right things the first time and I have been almost paralyzed with making the decisions to move forward on this deck.

[Scubaseas]

Get a copy of Dave Gerr's "The Elements of Boat Strength" to understand how sandwich construction works. It shouldn't be springy if it's a Baba. If the deck is delaminated it would though.

What are you ultimately putting down or what look are you going for?

You could seal each hole with a small patch but life is too short to spend that kind of time. I doubt adding cloth of any kind will stiffen it much but Id try's a layer of 1708 stitchmat, then unidirectional thwartship then a veil mat (.5oz csm) as a top coat to hide the weave. The bias on the 1708 is at 45* so with Uni you'll get good tension strength in all directions without too much thickness or weight. But that's just me shooting from the hip. Read Gerr. For non springy areas just use of veil mat.

Support the deck from underneath. If it's springy you do not want to walk on the resin until it's fully cured. You can make the last coat of resin dry by entraining air. Plastic sheet works or spray on PVA. Or paint works too. Another way is to add a small amount of stearate wax to the final coat of resin but then you need to remove the wax before applying anything on top of your laminate.

If you use epoxy get some peel ply.

Vinyester is almost as strong as epoxy and will chemically bond with polyester which is probably what you have. Epoxy is good but make sure it's not exposed to UV for long periods and look up amine blush. I've used USComposites in Miami to good effect. Great pricing on Reichold resins . Vinylester is substantially cheaper than epoxy.

Are you on D dock in Seabrook by any chance?

[Scubaseas]

Ooops. The Unidirectional usually doesn't come as stitch mat so you would go:

1708 stitchmat , .5oz CSM, Unidirectional, .5 oz CSM.

[ttex]

Yes we are on D dock.

[Scubaseas]

Small world. Want to borrow my moisture meter?

[Scubaseas]

PM sent.

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by ttex

The core is not rotten anywhere that I am aware of after I have fixed the spots that were rotten.

The foredeck still flexes.
I have visually seen the core every few inches in every spot of the deck. I did this personally. All of it.

Might I ask how you fixed the areas that were rotten? Regardless if you are just glassing over, I would use Poly-ester resin with 1707 Bi-cloth. I doubt it will do much for the flexing forward. You might need a beam under the area.

[Cpt Mark]

I'd be amazed there is no damage below. You may or may not have fixed everything. Rot is insidious.

You've gotten ggod advice so fr. Another vote for 1708.

Poly/Vinyl or epoxy. Epoxy more expensive. Epoxy is an exact measurement of hardner to resin. Poly you can adjust the catalyst to the temps you're working on. If you are at 60 degrees and below, do not use poly. It will get hard but never cure. This info comes from the manufacturer. Epoxy is exothermic. I've put it on in freezing temps. It will cure but will take weeks.

As far as putting either system on. Get a huge piece of cardboard. Wet the cardboard a bit then put the fg on it and roll out the resin. Flip the piece over and make sure you have no dry spots. Normally you fold said fg in thirds and go lay it down. On large pieces I've rolled it then unrolled it. Mke sure you start with the finish side down. Wet it out then flip so finish side is up. Finish wet out. If you roll or fold it you'll have the mat side down when laying it on.

I use the west systems rollers. They work with epoxy amazingly well and I find my wetouts are much better, more thorough and I use less material.

I question previous post saying vinylesther is almost as strong as epoxy. I'd have to see solid decimation on that.

I find baby wipes work really well for clean up. Read the ingredients and buy the ones that have citric acid as the 1st or 2nd ingredient on the list.

[ttex]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Might I ask how you fixed the areas that were rotten? Regardless if you are just glassing over, I would use Poly-ester resin with 1707 Bi-cloth. I doubt it will do much for the flexing forward. You might need a beam under the area.

I just got on my hands and knees and started digging out core until it wasn't rotten anymore. Then I filled in the hole with thickened epoxy. If the hole was big enough I put wood in as a filler. There was only one spot that big though. Most of my issues were around the chain plates. As far as I can tell the entire cabin wall is hollow. That is the wall where the portlights are. I dug out the rotten core and left it hollow.

After that I sanded it all down smooth.