A good inexpensive varnish

[BobMc]

Can't remember where I learned this "trick" but I've been using it for at least 20 years and never had a can of paint or vanish skim over.

Before closing the lid on a paint/varnish can, insert the business end of a propane torch (unlit) and give it about 5 seconds worth of propane gas by slowly opening the valve. Then tamp down the lid. Propane is heavier than air and will settle down on top of the can's contents to prevent exposure to "air."

Don't know how long it will keep the paint/varnish in usable condition - easily 4-5 years which is probably about it's shelf life.

Originally Posted by Hardhead

To anyone using varnish a lot - how have you been keeping the varnish from skinning over in the can, from a partial use? I've been using a product called "Bloxygen" - which works well, but it's somewhat pricey. Are there any good alternative methods anyone knows of?

[jsanton]

Great topic!
May I stretch the topic a wee bit?
How about interior teak?
My previous vessel had an oiled interior. I knew how to maintain it. The current vessel has a laquor interior in great shape. But the gangway finish has failed due to exposure.
Any guidance?
I’ve considered laquor spray cans.
Maybe strip and spar varnish?
Thanks in advance!

[DeValency]

Thanks for the hint! Will definitely try this as well on my teak lab...
Having whole teak decs is an ongoing happiness and concern. Keeping it both healthy and maintaining a fantastic look is in my present research...
Senco sealer (Golden tone) has been a fantastic maintainer and keeps the good look for few months.
Varnishing is an one way route so must be careful and test off my decks first...
-Oil based varnishes will darken the teak - no way! And a good teak doesn’t need extra oil.
- Water based varnishes are at my focus now and I’m testing few on an old piece of teak a local boatyard was happy to give me.
- On the water based, found at the Newport boat show last weekend a rather new product of Total Boat called HALCYON Rugged varnish - clear and amber toned. So far these are my winners -
BUT! - time should tell so after this weekend the board is going to be left outside in the sun, snow and whatever the New England weather will bring us to re-examined in 3-6-12 months. Will be happy to share the results.
The pic is of the ‘lab’ board
The other is the teak deck after two SEMCO coats

Thanks again! Will be happy to hear about teak decks finishing ideas.





QUOTE=sailorchic34;2974688]I'm not a huge fan of varnishing. So much so, that I painted my cap rails, my cockpit covings, and lazarette hatches. All are wood on my old boat. I use to use epifanes varnish. Which is a really good varnish. It's also a really expensive varnish.

Being a frugal and rather poor sailor I was always looking for alternates. There's a lot of bad varnish out there.

But two years ago, I got a can of varnish from the ace hardware store, that has turned out to be just as good as epiphanes. Best of all from my Frugal standpoint, it was only $16 a quart. That varnish was McCluskey Marine spar varnish, number 6539 Gloss.

2 years ago I stripped my three main hatches back down to bare wood and applied five coats, of the McCluskey varnish. Last year I did a light sanding, and put one more coat on. Today I'm just about to put another coat on after two years. The varnish is still holding up very well, with no breakthrough or cracking. I've been extremely pleased with it.

I thought I'd pass that along to the collective. I have not been compensated in any way for this opinion. I never do that sort of thing. This is just my real world experience.

Having used epiphanes for a number of years, I have found that the McCluskey varnish is at least as good, if not better.[/QUOTE]

[Hardhead]

Originally Posted by BobMc

Can't remember where I learned this "trick" but I've been using it for at least 20 years and never had a can of paint or vanish skim over.

Before closing the lid on a paint/varnish can, insert the business end of a propane torch (unlit) and give it about 5 seconds worth of propane gas by slowly opening the valve. Then tamp down the lid. Propane is heavier than air and will settle down on top of the can's contents to prevent exposure to "air."

Don't know how long it will keep the paint/varnish in usable condition - easily 4-5 years which is probably about it's shelf life.

Thanks Bob - that's a great tip. I've definitely learned something. I have a little 1 lb bottle, with a small torch end that would be perfect.

[Nelson Merle]

Hardhead, As JPA Cate states, I, too, have always stored tins of paint or varnish upside down. That way you never have a skin on the 'top' when you come to use it. The other thing that helps more generally is don't sail with it stored in the boat in high ambient temperatures and expect it to keep. I much prefer an oil finish in hot parts of the world but I agree it doesn't look the same as a good varnish.

[a68dart]

Regarding the skinning issue... I know this is not the recommended anything but my father used to exhale into the top of the can right before resealing it. He is 86 still runs his business in St. Pete FL. , same location since 1957, and swears that this will give you a couple extra months before skinning sets in. We went thru tons of various varnishes, using most up within a few months at the most. So does this work? IDK , he swears it does, has decades of experience so maybe? Let me know if anyone tries this.

[Hardhead]

Other good points as well. Thanks for all the tips. I'm glad I asked-

[Hardhead]

Originally Posted by a68dart

Regarding the skinning issue... I know this is not the recommended anything but my father used to exhale into the top of the can right before resealing it. He is 86 still runs his business in St. Pete FL. , same location since 1957, and swears that this will give you a couple extra months before skinning sets in. We went thru tons of various varnishes, using most up within a few months at the most. So does this work? IDK , he swears it does, has decades of experience so maybe? Let me know if anyone tries this.

I've actually tried it recently, and it does seems to help, if you really go to the very last exhale from a straw into it. I'm thinking there is less oxygen at that point. I've never actually tested it by letting it sit for a few months, usually just a day or 2 when doing that. It does look like stupid human tricks though, if anyone is witnessing it. Hopefully, they are related.

[Poche]

Originally Posted by Hardhead

That's good to know. I've been using TotalBoat varnish, and it's not a cheap, but it's reasonable, and pretty good as well.

To anyone using varnish a lot - how have you been keeping the varnish from skinning over in the can, from a partial use? I've been using a product called "Bloxygen" - which works well, but it's somewhat pricey. Are there any good alternative methods anyone knows of?

Have you tried waxed paper or plastic wrap under the lid?

[oldbilbo]

Originally Posted by a68dart

my father used to exhale into the top of the can right before resealing it..... and swears that this will give you a couple extra months before skinning sets in.

I'll try that with opened bottles of wine. Should I win an extra day or three before the flavour starts to decline through 'oxygenation', I'll reckon to have won.....

[aqua de vida]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

A trick a dear friend showed me, is to store the varnish upside down, then, when you re-open it, the skin is on the bottom. Only works for gloss varnish.

Another friend taught me to take a nail, and puncture the dip the lid fits into, so any spills will drain back down into the can; and also, to put a rubber band over the tin, and brush against it, to remove excess varnish from the brush, again, drips back down into tin.

Ann

....also when finished, replace lid and shake the bejesus out of it two or three times.....what reaction from air inside the can is spread over the entire contents of the can and allows no further reaction to form a skin!.....then store upside down....good practice to shake and invert cans on occasion also!

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by Hardhead

That's good to know. I've been using TotalBoat varnish, and it's not a cheap, but it's reasonable, and pretty good as well.

To anyone using varnish a lot - how have you been keeping the varnish from skinning over in the can, from a partial use? I've been using a product called "Bloxygen" - which works well, but it's somewhat pricey. Are there any good alternative methods anyone knows of?

I found buying varnish in smaller quantities helps. I try to use up the whole can so i dont have to store it and going bad on me. If the paint starts skinning over its hard to use it , even after running it through a filter you'll lose a lot of product.
I use 500ml cans.

[CruiseEasy]

Originally Posted by alexanick

What kind of bottom paint does Home Depot have?

HD carries Rustoleum antifouling and topside paint as well as Duralux boat paints.

[paul2884]

Originally Posted by jsanton

Great topic!
May I stretch the topic a wee bit?
How about interior teak?
My previous vessel had an oiled interior. I knew how to maintain it. The current vessel has a laquor interior in great shape. But the gangway finish has failed due to exposure.
Any guidance?
I’ve considered laquor spray cans.
Maybe strip and spar varnish?
Thanks in advance!

On simular lines we have light oak wood below decks and generaly its pritty tidy but just starting to show scratches in places, i dont realy want to re-varnish the whole thing.

What i really need is somthing i can put on like french polish with a cloth so i can just do the areas that need a bit of attension, i cant do this with a brush as they will show up. i could use one of the wax type furnature "repair" systems but then should i decide to varnish in a few years time the varnish won't stick.

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by jsanton

Great topic!
May I stretch the topic a wee bit?
How about interior teak?
My previous vessel had an oiled interior. I knew how to maintain it. The current vessel has a laquor interior in great shape. But the gangway finish has failed due to exposure.
Any guidance?
I’ve considered laquor spray cans.
Maybe strip and spar varnish?
Thanks in advance!

I would sand well and use a single component mate exterior spar varnish (Epifanes is great for that!) with good UV protection. At least 4-5 coats with light sanding in between.