8 Inch Long 1/4X20 SS Bolts? Supplier?

[JohnnyB]

HOLA.....

I am in dire need of some slotted or Phillips, Oval Head, 1/4X20 Stainless bolts 8 inches long.

They are not easy to find. I found one companay asking $22.00 each. I would really prefer NOT to spend that.

These bolts hold down the rear rail on my T37, and are through-bolted into my locker. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks...Johnny

[btrayfors]

Johnny,

What about using 1/4" stainless steel threaded rod, cut to desired length, and use nuts on both ends. Not sure how your rails look, but if the bolts are recessed into teak, for example, you might be able to use round end nuts for the recessed portion.

This rod is very inexpensive, and you can cut it easily with a Dremel tool.

Just a thought...

Bill

[delmarrey]

What I've done is take 1/4" carriage bolts and machined/filed round the square under the head and and then slot the top of the head.

Have you tried McMaster-Carr????

If your still in dire need PM me and I may be able to set you up.

[Islandmike]

I have purchased this type of bolt from Jamestown Distributors in Jamestown RI. They are very good, and quick on the shipments.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by JohnnyB

I am in dire need of some slotted or Phillips, Oval Head, 1/4X20 Stainless bolts 8 inches long.
They are not easy to find. I found one company asking $22.00 each. I would really prefer NOT to spend that. Johnny

You are seeking Stainless Steel “Machine Screws”*, better described as “1/4-20 x 8"” (Oval Head).
I would expect to pay over $20.00/each for small quantities (<box of 100), if I could find any 8" long.

ie:
Machine Screws, Slotted flat head, Stainless steel 18-8
Diameter: 1/4-20 x 8" Long
(#3528) $22.23/each
Goto:
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.asp...21&cm=6&cd=350

* I don’t want to appear overly pedantic, but the first keys to good internet search technique are:
- selecting the most accurate search term(s) (description)
- correct spelling.

[Celestialsailor]

Try calling Fasco Inc. They are one of the largest fastener company in the country. It will be your cheapest source. They are online...Aloha

[btrayfors]

" I would expect to pay over $20.00/each for small quantities (<box of 100), if I could find any 8" long."

Gord is right. Why pay this? The threaded rod is less than a tenth that amount (e.g., $2.50 for a 3-foot long 1/4" 18-8 s/s threaded rod). IF you can use them, that is, by fitting an appropriate nut.


Bill

[delmarrey]

These use to be 4" X 5/16" carriage bolts. I'll bet you can find 8" too. I had to go to 6" due to stacking organizers.

There are lots of options. A solid rod threaded on each end or all thread, like memtioned above. Even a 4" lag screw, screwed into the wood, would hold. If it's fiberglass your going through, it could even be tapped for a 1/4"-20 thread and a machine screw threaded into it as deep as possible.

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha Johnny,
I just bought a twleve foot piece of stainless all thread 1/4 20 for $22 and change. I am going to put cap nuts on the end that shows and cut it to whatever length I need. I am installing a toerail that required some 7" bolts. Can't get them cheap anywhere.
My local steel supplier had the all thread. Ace hardware has the cap nutss for $1.10 each (I won't buy them at that price) so I'll probably order them from Jamestown.
The right things are hard to find at the right price here on the outer islands.
Kind Regards,
JohnL

[SkiprJohn]

I believe "all thread" and "threaded rod" are interchageable terms?

[Zach]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

I believe "all thread" and "threaded rod" are interchageable terms?

They are...
Some guys thread a nut on and use a hack saw to cut through. I'd like to share a quicker and easier way if you can gain access to the tools.

Mark the threaded rod with a sharpie at the correct length. Take a cut off wheel, as thin as you can get on an angle grinder, and cut through it. Now go to a bench grinder and square up the end, and grind the last thread so it tapers like a normal bolt. For the next one, lay what you just did next to the rod, mark and cut.

You've got options to turn it into a bolt or screw. The easiest is to double nut it with stainless steel nylocks. (Vicegrip on the threads that don't matter, or locked in a vice.) Wrench on the top nut to tighten and the bottom to loosen without having them loosen (Though once you've put the squeeze on them they aren't going anywhere!)

Or, a standard stainless steel nut can be threaded on with a few threads showing inside the nut... and then welded together. This nut can be ground to smaller diameter for size constraints, made D shaped, or whatever else is needed for obstruction... or just ground round and slotted for a screwdriver.

Good luck whatever you choose, the above will take a couple minutes per piece... If you don't have the skills, or tools... grab the allthread and nuts, and take them to a metal fab shop, or community college.

Have you put any thought into enlarging the holes for a more standard size hardware?

[Jentine]

You can find carriage bolts, 1/4 X 20 X 8.00" for $5.59 each at CARRIAGE BOLT S/S .25X8.00 W/O NUT 50/BOX 110650 then follow the previous advise of grinding off the square shoulder and cutting a slot in the top with a hacksaw.

[cnj]

Buy 4" bolts cut the head off half and have a weld shop tig
them together. Do this all the time at work.

[Just a Tinch]

This post has prompted me to think...when I redid almost everything on our Morgan...up on the deck, I had to buy a lot of stainless steel. I did this while we were on hard at the Dog River in Mobile...and I went to looking around Mobile and found a place there that specializes in supplying large stainless and bronze items...nuts, bolts, and other items to large commercial vessels... but they were very accomodating to smaller vessels as well.

Their prices were excellent and I saved a fortune over boating stores and many others. You can buy one of an item...or a truck load. I'll go through my receipts and see if I can find the name of the place. Even with some shipping attached, they would still be a bargain.

[billr]

Just one thing to not forget (though its probably obvious to this group) is that a quarter inch bolt which is not threaded by the head will have a greater shear strength than a quarter inch threaded rod. The thread depth and shape is a driver for that shear strength. The use you give the aft rail will determine the shear loading. If you are replacing old bolts with threaded rod, you may want to increase the diameter to 5/16 if your rail hardware will accomodate it.