4-108 Fuel leak between govenor and high pressure fuel pump. Sitka

[Daveineugene]

Friends, we are mid voyage; Winchester Bay Oregon to Juneau. Noticed a fuel drip near Ketchikan and has a gasket set sent to the harbor master in sitka. The kit is here and so are we. Tomorrow I will attempt to remove the Govenor from atop the injection pump. I am told that I do not have to remove the heat exchanger. I am having trouble sourcing the wrench I need for the two splined bolt heads ( I think they are 6 mm) .

Would love input for anyone that can add guidance to this adventure .

Thx in advance,

Dave

[Redcoat]

If you have the access it can be done but putting it back together is going to be tough. If you have the bowman heat exchanger the simplest way is to remove it.
I can stand over my engine but the bulk head is close to the motor on the injection side so working with a mirror is a hard thing to do. For me after draining the coolant and pulling the hoses for block, water pump">raw water pump and exhaust. Remover L shaped support brackets to the top of the head I used a extending magnet pen and the 1/2"wrench to remove the nuts and washers to keep them out of the bilge. A lot of finger work involved. After that The whole pump is visible and removal of engine shut down and antistall housing is easily accessible when taking the housing apart be sure not to disturb the setting on the antistall as there is a spring inside the top bolt if it is just the gasket after cutting the lock wire be sure and replace so it does not come lose again. But before you do all of this see if you can tighten the 2 screws that hold it in place. Also check the lower pressure line against the block sometimes what you think is coming from the top is actually that line loose. In which case you have to come up from the bottom by pulling the starter easier maybe. Good luck hope this helps.

[Daveineugene]

Great info. Trying to confirm the bolts that hold down the Govenor. Seems like a 6mm splined. May no be ray to find on sitka

[Redcoat]

There are two of them with a wire or a glue to hold them in place. The outside one you can get. The one close to the block is going to be tough. Pull the Heat Exchanger. But if it's a lot of diesel check the lower inside pressure line. It will be the fuel nut that goes into the injection pump against the block. I think it is a 9/16 find a short one there isn't much room to work.

[Redcoat]

In a pinch Call Larry Stewart @ Stewart Marine in Seattle. He is in union canal. He can ship anything Perkins

[Daveineugene]

Thx. I'll keep all this in mind. Really appreciate it. Dave

[donradcliffe]

When I had a leak up there, it was one of the seals inside the injection pump, and a common problem. I put a funnel under the leak and recycled the fuel until I could get somewhere, then pulled the injection pump and had it rebuilt.

Pulling the pump without pulling the HX is pretty straightforward except for the cap screw in the back---I had to make a long tool with a hex ground on one end, and I think I used one of those drill bit extension pieces like DeWALT 12'' Extension

[zeehag]

we removed all bits on engine and sent injector pump and lift pump and tranny oil heat exchanger to pump rebuilder--we will repaint and post when it is done.
seems the injector pump was cause of runaway i suffered in june

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by zeehag

we removed all bits on engine and sent injector pump and lift pump and tranny oil heat exchanger to pump rebuilder--we will repaint and post when it is done.
seems the injector pump was cause of runaway i suffered in june

I think if you go back and check that thread.........I called it !!!!

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I think if you go back and check that thread.........I called it !!!!

yup. did that----and my rebuild was awesome reasonable. 1/3 usa pricing or less, and this guy is reputable and excellent.

wait until yáll see the engine after painting......

hopefully same thing goes for op--i hope his rebuild is reasonable an dexcellent as well.

[Daveineugene]

A day at the school 4-108.


Here is it what learned:

1, there are fuel grommets in the end of the supply and return lines that create a compression fitting. These are on the 1/2" fuel line connections. If you don't connect into those before tightening they will leak like crazy.

2. You can pull the Govenor without removing the heat exchanger . Must remove some injector lines and fuel lines 1st. The splined bolt heads are 1/4" and we had to grind the wrench head so that it would fit the tight opening. Figuring this out took too long. Once we had it we made progress.

3, I stopped my leak at the Govenor and still had a drip at the end of the pump. It was leaking a drop ever 10 seconds. I put a wrench on the 1/4" bolts at the end of the pump and got an 1/8th turn. Now it leaks one drop per second. (Bummer... After a day of work it is worse than when I started)

I am tempted to see if there is a seal behind this 4 - 1/4" bolts but it looks a little hairy in the schematic

I called Stewart marine at 4:45 and missed them . My thought is that I too must have the internal leak and need a new pump.

Does it make sense to buy one to keep around as an extra?

What should I expect to pay?

Given that I am stopped at sitka not sure what the best approach would be.


Thx,

Dave

[Redcoat]

Relax clean your work space. In the morning walk away from it and go into town go to the fishing dock and ask who does injector service in the area. Explain your problem and ask what the rates are. Get shop and travel info. Pull the heat exchanger expect to spend a couple of days there. It will all work out but if you have to pay some other guy to fix it expect to pay $600.00. You can fix it you just need to make some room to work. Good Luck

[Daveineugene]

Thx. I intend on doing the workforce sure. Just wondering how much I should expect to pay for a rebuilt pump.

[donradcliffe]

As I expected, you have the blown internal seal.

Google is useful for getting an idea of what things should cost.

Rebuilt injection pump, injectors or turbo for your Perkins engine.

[Redcoat]

I just had mine done in Arizona. Same pump w/injectors $700.00. But my motor was being rebuilt. If you have a Perkins with the bowman exchanger you or someone is going to do the work described above. I believe in your boat the motor is in the floor with good access. Pull the Heat exchanger so you can see everything. It will go back to together with some gasket seal if you don't break anything. If you are leaking in the areas that you describe vibration is the problem and one of your pressure lines is loose. The back lower pressure line is a problem tighten it. If you don't feel comfortable doing the work pay someone to do it in Sitka many good wrenches there. The tear down is about 2 hours labor. If it is still running use a hand mirror and put it under the pump shine your flashlight on the mirror you should be able to see everything. if you pull the pump ONLY UNSCREW THE NUTS FOR THE JABSCO WATERPUMP DO NOT LOOSEN THE 4 NUTS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE 4 THAT HOLD THE PUMP ON.