1945 Steel deck to teak join rusting

[malds]

Hello,

I have purchased a steel boat that has been much loved by the previous owner, there is however one big problem.

The deck is leaking, it's steel with a raised teak section which has been laid over steel stringers supporting the deck and coachroof. I can see the teak deck from inside the cabin.

The issue is that the steel rim has began to seriously rust and swell and water now gets between teak and steel, additionally the steel on the deck is getting thin in some places on the deck.

I can not think of a way to easily repair it by replacing it with fibreglass, as there has to be a point where the glass joins the steel, I am uncertain how to make this connection both watertight and attractive. I am reluctant to go down the steel route as ... well it's a lot more work (I can do the FG work myself), but I see steel as the only option.

I have attached a diagram and photo's, any suggestions would be much appreciated.

[dfelsent]

Beautiful!

[boden36]

So long as the weight is not too much of an issue, I would replace the deck with a steel one. Otherwise, remove the teak from where it abuts the steel, repair, abrasive blast and paint the area, and then reinstate the teak.


Regards,
Richard

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, malds.

Owning a (mostly) steel boat, it may behoove you to acquire some basic steel-working skills.

[captlloyd]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, malds.

Owning a (mostly) steel boat, it may behoove you to acquire some basic steel-working skills.

Absolutely, welding is not all that difficult to learn, you are going to need to pull the teak anyway. Use steel. I am located in Ohio, come on by and I will teach you.

[ausnp84]

I went through this same exercise and was desperate to save the teak deck, but in the end had to bite the bullet and fit a steel deck. Best thing I ever did! No more leaks, easier to attach fittings to, etc etc.

N

[HoneyRyder]

Do you want to do a great job that will last for a long time?

If so, then:

1. remove all the teak and store safely
2. get an angle grinder and cut out all the old steel stringer supports
3. blast remaining steel
4. weld in new steel supports
5. paint all steel with 2-3 coats of epoxy (after drilling holes to attach teak)
6. replace teak

Sigmacover 400 is an excellent epoxy, I have used it all over my boat (needs topcoat of Sigmadur if exposed to UV). You will get best results with the paint if you apply when the steel is warm, and then apply the second coat before the first coat is fully cured.

Using the "rust killers" doesn't work, despite what they claim. Painting over rust doesn't work either, the oxygen in the metal will cause expansion and flaking.

If you don't want to blast then use a flapper disc on your angle grinder to get down to bare steel, the more rust you remove the longer the repair will last. PPG also make a thin primer epoxy coat that bites into the metal which will be a great base for the Sigmacover.

It will seem like a lot of work but if you do it properly then you will never need to worry about it again in your lifetime (epoxy paint on blasted steel is good for 30+ years).

Good luck, and be careful with your grinder!

PS. Try and get a copy of this book, the info re steel boat repairs is truly excellent, and it has lots of other great little tips like using vinegar to remove wet epoxy paint, etc., https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Away-Gu.../dp/0961550805

[Capt. Ray]

Another vote to replace the teak with a steel deck you will never look back. Take off the teak, de-rust, get a pro to weld on thin plate or buy a 240v welder and learn how. I have a steel deck with a teak deck screwed on top. Guess what will happen to the teak in 3 to 5 years?! I may keep the best planks and glue on to the steel deck in cosmetic patches where people like to lie down - NO SCREWS!!!

Originally Posted by boden36

So long as the weight is not too much of an issue, I would replace the deck with a steel one. Otherwise, remove the teak from where it abuts the steel, repair, abrasive blast and paint the area, and then reinstate the teak.


Regards,
Richard

[Fore and Aft]

The only problem with replacing the deck with steel is you are going to lose all this yachts charm. I cannot believe I would say this but removing the teak and blasting the steel might be the better option. Using a good two pack epoxy paint and Sikaflex for a bedding compound should easily give you 10 years leak free.
Another way since you sound handy with your hands is remove the teak and lay a ply/glass deck then glue the teak deck on top. Making sure the teak is not screwed down, just glued. You would still get the classic look.
The biggest issue I see is the sand blasting. An industrial unit will just blow sand everywhere. I have seen good results with these little guns and not much mess.
http://airtoolsandmore.com.au/tools/...=google-simple
Cheers

[Oceanride007]

My boat is all steel, however got lots of wood trim. Hand rails, hatches, Lazarette storage. Builder anticipated where he would have issues and used Stainless doublers or angles that was in contact with the wood, been going 30 years.


Not saying you should only that you could, Reminder here that deck gives longitudinal strength. Wood doesn't contribute, flexing could be issue and I wouldn't want stainless to carry any of that stress.

[sy_gilana]

Originally Posted by Fore and Aft

The only problem with replacing the deck with steel is you are going to lose all this yachts charm. I cannot believe I would say this but removing the teak and blasting the steel might be the better option. Using a good two pack epoxy paint and Sikaflex for a bedding compound should easily give you 10 years leak free.
Another way since you sound handy with your hands is remove the teak and lay a ply/glass deck then glue the teak deck on top. Making sure the teak is not screwed down, just glued. You would still get the classic look.
The biggest issue I see is the sand blasting. An industrial unit will just blow sand everywhere. I have seen good results with these little guns and not much mess.
Air Tools and More : A: GRAVITY FEED SANDBLASTER PROTON AIR [PA-7551] - $72.00
Cheers

Agree

[captlloyd]

Originally Posted by Fore and Aft

The only problem with replacing the deck with steel is you are going to lose all this yachts charm. I cannot believe I would say this but removing the teak and blasting the steel might be the better option. Using a good two pack epoxy paint and Sikaflex for a bedding compound should easily give you 10 years leak free.
Another way since you sound handy with your hands is remove the teak and lay a ply/glass deck then glue the teak deck on top. Making sure the teak is not screwed down, just glued. You would still get the classic look.
The biggest issue I see is the sand blasting. An industrial unit will just blow sand everywhere. I have seen good results with these little guns and not much mess.
Air Tools and More : A: GRAVITY FEED SANDBLASTER PROTON AIR [PA-7551] - $72.00
Cheers

No reason why after replacing rusted steel he can’t reuse and replace the teak. And no, those little blasters are not going to get the job done.

[hpeer]

Steel.

I’ve a steel coach roof but have teak handrails. I have some light rust where the handrails bolt to the coachroof. I’m looking to make new 316 handrails over the summer and have them welded on when I get back to the boat.

[HoneyRyder]

Another thought for you; remove all the teak (and store), cut out the steel stringers with an angle grinder, weld in new steel stringers, epoxy them, as before.

Then lay over either galvanized sheet or aluminum sheet, making sure that all fixing points (to the stringers) are sealed with sikaflex 291, and then glue your teak onto the galvy/ally plate.

It will last for decades.

The stringers attach to your coach house presumably, and help hold the boat together, most likely, so I would be wary of removing them without replacing with something equally strong.

[malds]

Thank you all for the great responses.

Some interesting things I have learnt, the steel is 90% all original from 1945 (how much steel was around after WW2?), except for round the toilet where urine ate through it.

The tanks and fittings are all original galvanised steel - 0 rust!! That is impressive!

Last owner welded SS to S, in a few places which has eaten away at the Steel over time.

Yes, the charm of the boat would be lost with the removal of the teak deck, it really does make the lines of the boat, wonderful flange / separation between side of the boat where the water drains and the wood, truly a work of art - also the area of most rust.

Cutting and simply filling the void with steel does appear to be the best way, then grind, fair, epoxy and paint, blasting is ideal but not something I am willing to consider due to the beautiful woodwork inside.
- I may then glue the teak on top of this as suggested.

She is a beauty.