Cruisers Forum
 


Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. Advertise Here
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 24-08-2016, 15:56   #61
Marine Service Provider

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Auckland, NZ
Boat: Compass 790 , 7.9 metres or 26 ft
Posts: 2,803
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Forgot to say I just used silicon on all my engine case gaskets as I refused to pay Yanmar mafia & they dont leak at all, every gasket was broken BTW. this is the diamond lapping paste link http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-...c-2c96ec7c1341
Compass790 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-08-2016, 18:51   #62
Registered User
 
SailingFan's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Florida
Boat: Hunter 27, 1978
Posts: 538
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Estimated Delivery Time:43-62days

Compass, I can't wait that long. Their delivery time above is just too long. I used valve grinding compound, and they did well, I will try some GoJo or toothpaste and see how that goes in refining the seal, as either of those is finer than the compound was, and should give a great seal. When done I will put some alcohol (the medical kind) in the inverted head, and see whether it holds it without leaking. Hopefully if that works it would be tight enough to make the grade. If it does not hold it without leaking, I will have to try jeweler's rouge or perhaps some builder's chalk-box powder. I have the powder already, so that may be the best place to start...?

I have been using Yahoo's search engine for the manual, it seems, so I need to use Google before I give up on that. I found the other two manuals on Google, but did not realize I was using Yahoo (I use a few browsers, and each seems to have its own engine).

By the way, I truly appreciate your help with this thing, I am almost done painting the freeboard part of the hull, and am about to start painting the bottom, and it would be great if I can make use of the inboard as soon as I put her back in the water. Then I will have to paint the deck and cabin top (the gelcoat on this boat is cracked and crazed all over the place). I will be also putting in new windows throughout, and making some wiring changes (the PO used untinned wire ). I also have to drop the mast and rewire and rerig the halyards onto it... Sheesh..

By the way, is it poor form to add a couple dedicated halyards for lifting things via the mast and/or boom? It would be great if I did not have to unhook the main every time I needed to lift the dingy or the outboard for it on board the sailboat...

I think I am renaming Bonus to Resurrection........
__________________
SailingFan
1978 Hunter 27
Learning by the day!
SailingFan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-08-2016, 21:26   #63
Marine Service Provider

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Auckland, NZ
Boat: Compass 790 , 7.9 metres or 26 ft
Posts: 2,803
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Yea I'd go with google for manual search, pretty sure the head is the same on YSB8 as YSM8 tho as I'm using a YSB8 head on my YSM8 & I cant see any differences. I'm helping you 'coz i went thru all that engine work ++ & I got help from the forum & principally Atoll from Cornwall, so it's payback time now. Delivery time stated frm China is worse case scenario. It took 2weeks to NZ & some times I get stuff in 10 days & I'm sure it's faster to USA ( However very rarely it could take 30days) but yea yr jewellers rouge or any polish will work in time. Diamond paste just quicker. You'll sure like the inboard better than the outboard once she's sorted but I do wear earplugs if we have to motor a long time but I do that with outboards as well,
This aussie guy has a few good Yanmar YS12 series vids on youtube start with this one, They are the same design as the 8hp Ys series. Im enjoying your tale, no problem with putting more halyards on but a racer wouldnt because of the extra weight& windage
Compass790 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-08-2016, 20:50   #64
Registered User
 
SailingFan's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Florida
Boat: Hunter 27, 1978
Posts: 538
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Well, I am no racer, but it seems like the extra halyards could come in handy now and then. additionally, it would make for redundancy in case of failure of those that normally support sails. Just a thought.

I checked the head today, and cleaned my valves a hair more, and then seated them, and poured acetone on them in the closed position (without springs installed) and even without springs, the acetone did not get through. I think that as this material is thinner than water or alcohol, and there was not pressure but gravity holding the valves shut, I now have a great seal!

The valve springs did not show today, I am hoping to get them tomorrow? I am just itching to put them in! I am dropping the pan in the morning if I get time between paint coats, and retrieving the pushrod and any other materials that may be in there. I will also add new oil. The stuff in there is black as can be, though it is still slippery. I just don't trust it. I will be replacing the diesel fuel filter while I can get in there.
__________________
SailingFan
1978 Hunter 27
Learning by the day!
SailingFan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-08-2016, 16:42   #65
Registered User

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: sydney, australia
Boat: 38 roberts ketch
Posts: 1,309
Images: 3
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

i rigged my headsail pole so i can use it to lift the dinghy aboard or any other lifting jobs - it does more of that sort of thing than poling out the jib.
charliehows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 14:54   #66
Registered User
 
SailingFan's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Florida
Boat: Hunter 27, 1978
Posts: 538
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

OK, valve springs showed and I installed them with a normal Harbor Freight overhead valve spring compressor (I think the tool was about $7.99??). They went right in, after a rapid learning curve in setting the valve wedges in place without knocking the spring off the tool.

Now, the head is reassembled (I ground the valves already, and they hold a pool of acetone with no leaks, and made a satisfyingly hollow "thump" sound when they manually seated. The head is cleaned on the sealing surface, lubricated, and ready to remount. Now to pull that pushrod out of the oilpan...

Will do an oil change at the same time, and reseal pan since I have it off (there was no oil at all on the deck under the engine, a nice tight seal, since there was oil on the dipstick).

Here is a pic of the shattered spring:

It was in 4 pieces, and the other one was of unknown condition or age, so I replaced both of them. I discarded the other one, and am considering ordering another pair as spares. Not sure yet.

Valves were undamaged. Piston was also undamaged.

For setting valve lash, what is the proper method for this engine?
__________________
SailingFan
1978 Hunter 27
Learning by the day!
SailingFan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 14:59   #67
Registered User
 
SailingFan's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Florida
Boat: Hunter 27, 1978
Posts: 538
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Oh, and here is that home made exhaust elbow!



Here is a view of a less than stellar weld job.



Not sure how to redo this without similar results as salt water hits whatever I put in place, and I don't have access to the cash for a proper replacement given the light use this engine would get with me at the moment.
__________________
SailingFan
1978 Hunter 27
Learning by the day!
SailingFan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 21:11   #68
Marine Service Provider

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Auckland, NZ
Boat: Compass 790 , 7.9 metres or 26 ft
Posts: 2,803
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

v/v lash:Set oiston to TDC on compression stroke from marks on flywheel, should show in one of yr manuals. Clearance is 0.2mm or .00787 in for both v/v's at least it is for YSM8 & fairly sure its the same for YSB8.
As for yr exhaust elbow get some 316 ss elbows & a bit of pipe & weld up yr own if you can weld. Any place that does ss fabrication should b
Compass790 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 21:19   #69
Marine Service Provider

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Auckland, NZ
Boat: Compass 790 , 7.9 metres or 26 ft
Posts: 2,803
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

be able to supply a couple of offcuts & the elbows & the reducer. U can use threaded elbows in different sizes & just weld them up as long as you can gap fill. Sorry about disjointed answer as i hit snd by mistake. Dont use tube, sched 10 pipe ok
Compass790 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 21:42   #70
Registered User

Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Nanaimo BC
Boat: modified Spray 56' oa
Posts: 378
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Bet that hose can get pretty hot. How about an elbow threaded on to the injection nipple to lead the hose in from a distance and better angle.
topmast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 23:25   #71
Registered User
 
SailingFan's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Florida
Boat: Hunter 27, 1978
Posts: 538
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Topmast, I don't know much about this kit, the thing was on the boat when I purchased her, and it was supposedly the pre PO's solution to a leaking/blocked elbow from the factory. I somehow doubt he considered corrosion in his remedy. The material looks like the thickness is still there, the corrosion seems external in nature, and given the look of the engine exterior, I really can accept that the corrosion is from saltwater saturated air rather than direct contact with actual seawater in the liquid form within the pipe. In fact, the engine itself seems to have corrosion externally, but little to none internally. I am thinking that salty spray was liberally applied to the external surface in entirety, without a good freshwater rinse! Perhaps the zincs in the engine are worn out, I don't know, but it seems odd there is little corrosion internally but so much salt scale present externally.

I am going to attempt to locate a shop that can fabricate something for me, probably, as I hear welding stainless is a bit of a PITA (I have only brazed and welded carbon steel, and have never worked with stainless). My question in that regard is whether the angle of the water injection is critical or not, and how long I should make the injection pipe to keep the hose from melting from the exhaust and conductive heat of the engine. What do you guys think would be acceptable in these qualities, given the space available (limited)?

I am going to button it up though to get her on the water after the bottom paint is complete, because I have cancer surgery (right kidney) on the 9th of this month, and I don't want to be fiddling with this during my recovery time. I still have to get the mast loose to fix the mast base area (water intrusion has eliminated the core there at the step) and have no idea how I can get that handled before Friday!

So I guess I am going to either leave her on the hard (not preferable considering the daily cost of doing so for extended time) or put her in the water this week with the mast still not properly ready for use (also not good!).
__________________
SailingFan
1978 Hunter 27
Learning by the day!
SailingFan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 08:43   #72
Registered User

Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Nanaimo BC
Boat: modified Spray 56' oa
Posts: 378
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

The welded injection pipe looks pretty standard ,rust and all. Design could be tweaked as I suggested but unless it's leaking exhaust gases, water etc it's on the replace later list. The weld may be porous to CO which is not good.Scrap SS is maybe a $ a ib which is cheaper and better than H Depot black steel. I don't use galanized as it does't last anyway, gives off zinc fumes and makes welds porous Rod welding of SS is quite easy. Same angle looks OK Leave some extending into big nipple and enough on the hose end to allow an elbow to swivel onto threaded end.
topmast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 08:52   #73
Registered User
 
Cheechako's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,483
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

Quote:
Originally Posted by topmast View Post
The welded injection pipe looks pretty standard ,rust and all. Design could be tweaked as I suggested but unless it's leaking exhaust gases, water etc it's on the replace later list. The weld may be porous to CO which is not good.Scrap SS is maybe a $ a ib which is cheaper and better than H Depot black steel. I don't use galanized as it does't last anyway, gives off zinc fumes and makes welds porous Rod welding of SS is quite easy. Same angle looks OK Leave some extending into big nipple and enough on the hose end to allow an elbow to swivel onto threaded end.
Yep, clean up and hi temp paint that elbow on the weld if you want and continue on. I put a galvanized pipe elbow on my old Volvo many years ago, It lasted fine. Not the best area for SS... heat, acid and salt water not that good for SS.
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard











Cheechako is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 15:38   #74
Registered User

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: sydney, australia
Boat: 38 roberts ketch
Posts: 1,309
Images: 3
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

in regard to the exhaust pipe - I've a suspicion that isnt quite as homemade as you think - I've seen a few 35 year old yanmars (including my own) with an almost identical exhaust system - mine hasnt any corrosion and still works very efficiently. I'd be curious to know if they were manufactured as such or that was simply the common practice when fitting those engines to lifeboats which carried over to sailing boats.
charliehows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 17:09   #75
Marine Service Provider

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Auckland, NZ
Boat: Compass 790 , 7.9 metres or 26 ft
Posts: 2,803
Re: YSE8 shattered valve spring! Help?

If its not leaking & you say the thickness is still there I'd just paint it as o.p. says & put it back if you are short of time as you can always get it off later. 316 ss will last way longer than galv pipe in that application. Stick welding of ss not too bad just dont try doing vertical up, just stick to downhand since you aren't practiced in it but it looks like you can do it all except water injection point with threaded elbows & nipples to avoid welding.
The zinc gets burnt off when you weld thats why its so rusty around the welds. Wish you a speedy recovery so you can get back on the water.
Compass790 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Yanmar YSE8 manual Atraxia Engines and Propulsion Systems 0 10-07-2012 06:45
Shattered Dreams oldman66 Meets & Greets 16 12-11-2011 19:45
Frozen Yanmar yse8 nicely done Engines and Propulsion Systems 4 22-08-2011 17:51
Yanmar YSE8 Help nicely done Engines and Propulsion Systems 3 27-05-2011 21:53
yanmar yse8 rebuild ShadowRWolf Engines and Propulsion Systems 18 30-03-2009 05:48

Advertise Here


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 18:43.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.