Yanmar “Idiot” Lights Upgrade

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by FireIslander

When I was looking for the alternator I read so many different posts on this without any one being definitive. It was one of the threads I read about the bulb being a bulb and not an led. something with the ohm rating.

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OK, here is the definitive answer.

Short version - If you are using a LED for the charge warning lamp you can add a 50 ohm 5 watt resistor in parallel with the charge warning lamp. This will ensure initial excitation of the alternator and perhaps more importantly, it will not cause any harm even if it is not needed. .

The simplified drawing should be self explanatory but if not, please ask.

I am being conservative with the 5 watt rating, given the fact current only flows through the resistor whenever the LED charge warning lamp is illuminated which is hardy ever and usually only for a short time. A 2 Watt resistor could be used but I would only do that if the physical size of the 5 Watt was problematic.

If you want the long answer of the why and wherefores of why the resistor is (or isn't) necessary and how it works, just ask.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Bycrick

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I would worry about whether the two warning light (oil, temperature) were LEDs or not. The bulbs are lit so seldom that they’ll fail from corrosion, water damage or excessive vibration. LED won’t be much different. . ......

Of course the oil light is illuminated before every engine start but yes, the temperature light can be problematic as very few of us actually test the temperature light let alone the temperature switch.

[FireIslander]

I purchased a new 35 amp alternator from DB electrical. It actually tests at 55 amp at higher RPM.

The old alternator was B, E, L and the new one had B, E, and the T connector.

I wired in a 5 amp fuse to one terminal for the voltage sense and the other for the Charge Lamp.

I have no idea it they were working before, but the lamp came on when I turned the key on. I did clean the barrel housing that held the bulb and tested the bulb as well direct to battery to make sure it lights.

I have a new panel that I will be changing out for the old one that is cracked.

I also noticed that they sold an optional remote cable for the decompression levers, is this needed?

thanks for al the responses, I really appreciate it!!!!!

[FireIslander]

I also modified the spreader lights with waterproof disconnects from Del City. This way no wire cutting or splicing and the wires are inside the spreader tubes.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by FireIslander

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I also noticed that they sold an optional remote cable for the decompression levers, is this needed?

thanks for al the responses, I really appreciate it!!!!!

Not needed but nice to have. The decompression levers are mostly used when doing engine maintenance - again not necessary, just makes turning the engine by hand much easier.

However they can be very very handy when trying to start the engine with a weak battery or using as an emergency stop device.

[FireIslander]

This is the alternator that I purchased from DB Electrical:

Alternator for Yanmar 1GM, 2GM, 3GM, 3HM, 4GM, 4JH2L-HTNE All; 400-44041

and I attached the image. I connected one terminal of the T to the battery with 5 amp fuse for voltage sense and the other to the charge lamp.