Yanmar 3GM30F Engine Mounts - front/back vs port/starboard

[Capt.Don]

Hunting through various Yanmar Installation and Operations manuals, from the Operations manual, it clearly shows 100's on the front and 75's on the back. Thanks again for all your input,
Don

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

My 3YM30F parts manual indicates 100# fore and 75# aft. Mine are 13 years old and I feel this is my next adventure in diesel maintenance.

[Capt.Don]

Originally Posted by EmeraldCoastSailor

My 3YM30F parts manual indicates 100# fore and 75# aft. Mine are 13 years old and I feel this is my next adventure in diesel maintenance.

Yet another confirmation - thanks!! My mounts are at least 11 years old and I've noticed what seems to me a lot of vibration at low RPMs and a clunking sound when put into forward. I'll be changing them in October.

Don

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

My mounts seem fine but I also noticed more vibration at idle. It caused leakage via the dripless seal so I upped my idle a little to smooth things and the leakage went away.

Are you DIY replacing or are you getting professional help?

[Capt.Don]

Originally Posted by EmeraldCoastSailor

My mounts seem fine but I also noticed more vibration at idle. It caused leakage via the dripless seal so I upped my idle a little to smooth things and the leakage went away.

Are you DIY replacing or are you getting professional help?

I thought mine were fine too -- aside from a bit of rust, the rubber looks intact. A little over 1 year ago, my engine started making an intermittent clunking sound in forward at low RPM. At the advice of many, we thought it was the flex-coupler which I replaced in March. This helped, but still the clunking sound. I then adjusted the valves, which also helped, but the clunking still persists.

My PSS started dripping, at first just a few tablespoons of water, then more. We had some bottom work done last month and I had the dripless replaced. After the yard work, I noticed the alignment is off (engine it tilted down in the back). The yard mechanic told me one of the mounts is stripped. I didn't have the right size wrench to verify and/or try to correct the alignment before heading home.

I am going to attempt this on my own. From what I've seen on the web, each mount can be replaced one at a time, trying to keep the height alignment the same. The trick seems to be supporting or lifting the engine a bit. People have used car-jacks, blocks of wood, wedges, inflatables fenders and a basketball (I think my kid's basketball is still in the garage ). The 3GM is pretty small and doesn't weight that much. I think I can support it enough to remove the mounts.

As previously mentioned, I replaced the flex-coupler without too much difficulty. This entailed removing the transmission and unbolting/bolting the new plate to the flywheel. I was pretty pleased that I did this on my own, in just a few hours, and didn't break or loose anything! I think replacing the mounts should require similar skill and effort.

I won't be back to the boat till October. Good luck with whatever you decide,
Don

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

Several years ago I bought one of these airshims in prep for the eventual mount replacement effort: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I subsequently heard about the basketball approach. Inflatable support seems like the way to go.

[Frankly]

If you change then one at a time not a big deal, but do have to rig some slight engine support. On the IP I have found it necessary to remove the connecting arms. Good time for a repaint on these steel arms.


Frankly

[Drakenkade]

Ellenbogan shows different from starboard to port on thier Install diagrams...