Wit's end with my outboard

[team karst]

fyi, my last carb rebuild was a few hundred miles from home. There are times when u have to fix the detailed issue, without help from amazon and ebay. Did this in a dingy plus i ripped a gasket and had to make a new one.
Today i swapped a starter motor 300 miles from home. I dont fix those. Every man needs to know his limitations. Somebody important said those mighty words.

[JebLostInSpace]

Originally Posted by Don C L

So as I say I have the 9.8 but aside from your little tank mounted under the shroud I believe you have the same guts of fuel delivery. Something clogging the filter is definitely something to rule out.

Excellent videos. Sadly they show precisely what I've been doing the past two days.

[kmacdonald]

There are two gaskets where the carb mounts to the engine. If they don't seal perfectly the carb won't suck enough fuel/air in. The gaskets are often damaged when removing the carb for cleaning. Part available here: https://www.boats.net/product/tohats...ea4432a3954b51

[toda]

Carburator jets are plugged... would bet the price of a new engine on it. Pull the carb, take it apart (don't lose the tiny bits), soak and wash with carb cleaner, blow out, re-assemble, then run ONLY 100 LL avgas. I have a Honda 9.9 that played the same games for years... I have had that carb apart so many times I can do it in the dark with mittens on... Finally I got wise and started using gas with NO ethanol. Problem solved... I don't need to stabilize the fuel in the winter, just leave the rascal freshly serviced (oil, filter, raw water flush, grease, light spray of CR56) at the end of the season and it has started Every. Single. Time. since I made the change in fuel 2 years ago. Av Gas is available at any airport with small planes.

[team karst]

Hard to find island airports with dingy docks. Even fewer with avgas and dingy docks. [emoji848]

[BelizeRumRunner]

Totally agree with wingssail approach. I bought a boat that included a 6 hp 4 stroke Mercury that I think is basically the same motor. It did not run when I first tried it. Spray a little quick start and it would almost run, indicating fuel issue, not spark issue. It is very hard to get the tiny ports of the carb cleared without a sonicator bath and pressurized air supply. But a brand new carb on amazon was about $115. A no brainer. I replaced the carb, adjusted the idle and throttle linkage (guided by you tube videos) and voila a running outboard. Then noticed the pee stream not so great so I replaced the impeller. That was a bit tricky lining up the tubes when the lower unit was put back together but I eventually managed to get her done. I drained the carb because I knew she would be out of use for a time as I am now in a marina, hope that doesn't affect it as some have said could happen here. Crossing my fingers. By the way, since I still have the old carb I can take my time to rebuild it and have a spare.

[moseriw]

because you have a four stroke?

[Martinini]

Take the carb off take the major parts off and soak it in Yamaha Carb cleaner overnight or longer. take the jet out and clean with a toothbrush etc. This has worked wonders for me.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by JebLostInSpace

Trying to get my dang outboard to run. Why is it these buggers are always so finicky????

I have a 6 HP Tohatsu 4-stroke outboard. I bought it new last year. It sat unused, out of the water, without fuel in it for ~6 months before I tried getting it going today.

Put some fuel in, choked, set throttle, attached the kill cord, opened the fuel valve. Pulled the cord twice and it started right up. Amazing! Easier than expected after sitting so long. I left it idling and went below to fetch some things while it warmed up. About 3 minutes later, I heard it die.

Now it won't restart. Applying different amounts of choke, fiddling with the throttle position, I can't get it to even cough. The cord pulls, it turns over, but no ignition. I suspect it's not getting fuel. Maybe it ran initially on some residual fuel that is now gone, and it's not getting any of the new fuel I put in the tank.

I check over all the fuel lines for kinks. Other than that, there's not much I can see to do. No hidden fuel shut-off valve that I can find. I'm using the internal tank and it doesn't have a primer bulb that I can find.

After a few dozen pulls on the cord, I have a new theory. Maybe I flooded it with too much fuel? So I shut off the fuel valve and give it 10 good pulls in hopes of draining excess fuel. Flip the fuel valve back open, give it half choke and pull the cord.

It coughs! That must have been the problem! But it won't actually run yet. I fiddle with the choke and throttle settings some more trying to find a combo that will make it happy. It coughs 4 or 5 more times, and then nothing again.

Well ****, maybe I flooded it again. Shut the fuel off, give it ten pulls, open the fuel valve, try again. Nothing. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Nothing. No more coughing.

I check the oil. Looks a little low so I top it up. Try the fuel shutoff - pull 10 times - fuel on maneuver a couple more times. Nothing.

I give up and ask the forum. What am I missing here? Why would it behave this way? And why hasn't anyone figured out how to make these bastards start reliably? I've never worked with a small 2 or 4 stroke engine that wasn't an absolute pain in the ass.

I had the same problem. Question. Did you buy it at a local dealer or online. If you bought it online then it was not tested before it shipped. I bought mine online and saved a hundred. Turned out the carburetor was defective. I found this out after several emails with Tohatsu who told me about this extra service that they HIGHLY recommend. They paid for the service. The dealer found the carburetor was defective. hey replaced it and the motor starts every time o the first or second pull. Remember to always run the motor dry of fuel and flush it out as often as possible.

[OneBoatman]

Start with fresh gas and a clean fuel tank and a new short piece of fuel line going directly to the carb fuel inlet. Check that you have a consistent spark by removing the plug, leave the wire attached and ground it threads against the head, with as much of the ambiant light blockes as is reasonable pull the start cord. You should see a consistent yellow to blue flash indicating a strong spark. Put the plug back in. Connect your new piece of fuel hose hose by passing your fuel filter (temporarily). Execute your std start sequence with the choke on. If it doesn't start. Remove the spark plug and confirm it is dry not wet. If it is wet you are getting adequate fuel to the cylinder. That generally means the needle seat is stuck open and unable to maintain a constant level in the float chamber as it should and you are immediately reaching a flooded condition, hence the seat and or needle should be replaced. If the spark plug is dry and you have fuel in the float chamber with the petcock open after first draining it and allowng it to refill the low speed jets in your carb are obstructed. If you can readily purchase new jets that is often easier than trying to clean them as they are very tiny in small engines. Perhaps the tail of an E string from your guitar and some carb cleaner will do wonders. Lastly and least likely it could be that the CDI unit is failing and you do not have a spark strong enough or on time for the engine to run but I would say this isn't where you start. Since your engine is now running like a top put your fuel filter back in the system.

[Goodxcharly]

I have the same engine on my Achilles.
Through the years it has been hard starting just out of the blue.
- Letting it sit for a bit worked.

-Tapping the carb lightly with the blunt of a screw driver worked. Frees up a stuck float.

- Opened the drain on the carburetor bowl to drain water out if any.. Plus see if you have flow from the tank.

-Remove carburetor, remove bowl, turn right side up, blow through gas intake while working the float to see if it is working or a jet is plugged. Remove float, remove jet and make sure it is not plugged.

- Water left in carburetor over a extended period can cause corrosion, aluminum scale. Then that plugs up the jets.

You are right to drain the fuel at the end of the season. Eliminates a lot of problems down the road.

90% of outboard issues are with fuel.

Good luck, Dave

[GrowleyMonster]

These new Tohatsu 4 stroke outboards are among the most dependable outboards I have ever used. Then again, I always run straight gasoline in them, not gasohol. I had a Nissan 6hp which I believe is just a rebranded Tohatsu, to push my old Cal 2-27 around until I could get the old Atom Bomb running. My wife had a Tohatsu 6hp to push her little Halman around. Neither ever failed to start by the 3rd or 4th pull even in winter or after a weeks long layup. Always had either WD-40 or ether based starting fluid on hand, but never needed it. We did always without fail start our outboards once a month. The rule was on or before the first Saturday of the month. Two local gas stations near the marina sell straight gasoline, so we don't have to pay fuel dock prices, not that it matters much. Those little motors sip gas, so even paying an extra buck a gallon amounts to chimp change.The difference between filling your tank from the Sav-A-Lot with no-name mystery gas, and premium branded pure gasoline from the most expensive fuel dock you can find, will buy you approximtely two beers. Drink four instead of teh whole six pack, and your books are balanced.

You are VERY close to solving your problem. Float valve, j'e accuse!!! See if you can stick a piece of 4 lb test monofilament down the low speed jet. I always used fine copper wire for that, myself. I don't think that is the problem, but ALWAYS check the easy stuff before you get medieval. Make sure you are getting a good seal with your carb gaskets. I like to wipe a film of vaseline on both sides before assembly. New gaskets are only a few bucks.

When messing with any gasoline engine that uses a carburetor, if I suspect fuel delivery or atimization problems, I skip to the chase, and swap carburetors. A spare is a fine thing to have. Change it, and rebuild the old one, and then you still have a spare. That would have saved a lot of time. If you are gonna keep that motor for a few years, you may as well look for a spare on fleabay. Same with hose, clamps, filter, all that stuff. These outboards almost NEVER have electrical problems unless you get pooped badly, but a spark plug is chimp change. Air filter is another good spare to have. Also keep something in the dink that you can make a starter rope from. They get old and break. Change your impeller every year even if you only used it for an hour. They don't always age well. Oil, too. Check the foot lube, too. Annual check list. But I am getting off topic. Double check that jet even though it is likely NOT the problem. Keep working at that float valve. Sometimes you get fuel. Most of the time, you don't. So it is either the float valve or something upstream that INTERMITTENTLY allows fuel to pass, but usually doesn't. You checked the filter. You checked the hoses. You checked the fuel shutoff valve. You opened the tank vent. When you disconnect the fuel feed from the carb and open the supply valve, the end of the hose delivers fuel, right? That leaves the float valve.

Have you checked the linkage from the throttle control on the tiller? Just askin. I still think it is the float valve. I would bet a dollar to a donut on it. Or vice versa. Cost of donuts is on the rise.

[Coltrek]

This may cause some purists to flame me, but I always keep some starting ether on hand, if I have trouble I give it a shot and usually it will pull the problem through and get things going.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Coltrek

This may cause some purists to flame me, but I always keep some starting ether on hand, if I have trouble I give it a shot and usually it will pull the problem through and get things going.

I usually keep carb cleaner around for similar reasons. Not so helpful with big engines, but for anything pull start, things have to be far more perfect for it to start than is required for it to run. So having something to give it a little extra kick can be useful in diagnosing things (can narrow down the problem if it'll run fine once started, but needs help to start cold).

[Dieseldude]

Originally Posted by JebLostInSpace

Trying to get my dang outboard to run. Why is it these buggers are always so finicky????

I have a 6 HP Tohatsu 4-stroke outboard. I bought it new last year. It sat unused, out of the water, without fuel in it for ~6 months before I tried getting it going today.

Put some fuel in, choked, set throttle, attached the kill cord, opened the fuel valve. Pulled the cord twice and it started right up. Amazing! Easier than expected after sitting so long. I left it idling and went below to fetch some things while it warmed up. About 3 minutes later, I heard it die.

Now it won't restart. Applying different amounts of choke, fiddling with the throttle position, I can't get it to even cough. The cord pulls, it turns over, but no ignition. I suspect it's not getting fuel. Maybe it ran initially on some residual fuel that is now gone, and it's not getting any of the new fuel I put in the tank.

I check over all the fuel lines for kinks. Other than that, there's not much I can see to do. No hidden fuel shut-off valve that I can find. I'm using the internal tank and it doesn't have a primer bulb that I can find.

After a few dozen pulls on the cord, I have a new theory. Maybe I flooded it with too much fuel? So I shut off the fuel valve and give it 10 good pulls in hopes of draining excess fuel. Flip the fuel valve back open, give it half choke and pull the cord.

It coughs! That must have been the problem! But it won't actually run yet. I fiddle with the choke and throttle settings some more trying to find a combo that will make it happy. It coughs 4 or 5 more times, and then nothing again.

Well ****, maybe I flooded it again. Shut the fuel off, give it ten pulls, open the fuel valve, try again. Nothing. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Nothing. No more coughing.

I check the oil. Looks a little low so I top it up. Try the fuel shutoff - pull 10 times - fuel on maneuver a couple more times. Nothing.

I give up and ask the forum. What am I missing here? Why would it behave this way? And why hasn't anyone figured out how to make these bastards start reliably? I've never worked with a small 2 or 4 stroke engine that wasn't an absolute pain in the ass.

Have you taken out the spark plug yet? If dripping wet, the engine is flooded. If only a bit moist, your fuel situation is probably ok. If completely dry, the engine could be fuel starved and system needs to be checked for blockage or carburetor trouble. Try priming with a bottle cap or teaspoon of fuel down the carburetor. If it starts and runs a few seconds, continue troubleshooting the fuel system. First I would check the filter(s). Check hoses for pinching. Internal carburetor problems are beyond the scope of forum advice. Adding "Gum Out" fuel treatment might break any fuel sludge. "Sea Foam" is really made for 2 strokes, but I have successfully use it with four strokes. Gum Out can be had at most automotive supply shops including Canadian Tire, maybe Napa.



Aside from fuel issues, the spark system can be tested by connecting the plug to ignition wire, and metal spark plug body grounded to engine with test lead. Pull start cord and look for spark. In strong sunlight, it could be hard to see. Need to be in the shade. Plug should be supported without touching to avoid electrical zap.