Which shaft seal ? 25mm or 1" ? ( Volvo 25mm actual shaft size)

[Mike Paget]

sorry my reply seems to have gone walk about, google Radice their 25mm seal is far superior than the Volvo one and cheaper. I exchanged my Volvo 25 mm one for the Radice one No burping anymore and easy to apply grease .
Mike

[jimbunyard]

Hmmm...let's see...the Jeanneau Sun Liberty 34 was last built in 1992, so if (a decidedly big if) the '1"' shaft is original it's 25 years old, and the 25 mm seal might actually work better than a 1" seal, due to wear on the old shaft.

If the existing shaft is 25mm the 1" seal is too large in any case and might last for a little while, but would likely leak, if not immediately, sooner rather than later...

Again, to be sure measurement and suitability for application from the manufacturer are key...

For any that aren't familiar, this is the type of seal to which we're referring

[George DuBose]

My Volvo 122 station wagon is 51 years old and I have no maintenance issues. Parts for this car are cheaper than for the new Volvos and all the parts are still available.

Volvo Marine parts are known to be pricey.

I was advised by Claude Smith of Bay Shore Marine to change from StrongSeal to Lasdrop as the inner seal floats a bit. After two seasons, I am very happy with the Lasdrop. It doesn't drip at all and is water-cooled.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by George DuBose

Volvo Marine parts are known to be pricey. .

I am curious you say "Volvo are known to be pricey". I paid about £65 from the local Volvo agent for the last 1" shaft seal I bought about 2 years ago. How much did you pay last time for a Volvo Seal?

The Orbitrade one shown above is £70 so very similar in price. Actually I prefer the Volvo version because you don't need the additional connections for water.

On a 1992 boat the shaft could easily have been changed, as I have done. Whilst sourcing a 1" shaft in the UK and having the right taper machined can be achieved easily in a couple of days if the yacht has spent time in Europe then a metric sized shaft could have been fitted.

[George DuBose]

"Volvos are known to be pricey". I was referring to their engine parts.
Compare the price of a Volvo marine water pump to a Yanmar or Bukh price.

[pblancha]

Originally Posted by Mike Paget

sorry my reply seems to have gone walk about, google Radice their 25mm seal is far superior than the Volvo one and cheaper. I exchanged my Volvo 25 mm one for the Radice one No burping anymore and easy to apply grease .
Mike

Hi Mike,
I'm trying to choose which replacement stern gland to buy for my Westerly Fulmar which has the VP standard seal at the moment. I see the Orbitrade 91254-1 and the corresponding Radice item have these extra grease and 'water' entrances. My boat is a bilge keeler and we often dry out, so I would dearly love to avoid the need for 'burping' the stern gland. Can the 'water entrance' connector actually be just connected to a length of tube venting above the waterline to achieve that?
Cheers

[vtomanov]

I decided in the end in favour of : Orbitrade 91254-1 - seems way better quality the Eliche-Radice ( I currently have Elice Radice)

[pblancha]

vtomanov, what is the 'water entrance' connector on the Orbitrade 91254-1 connected to? Is it just a length of pipe venting above the waterline?

[vtomanov]

Originally Posted by pblancha

vtomanov, what is the 'water entrance' connector on the Orbitrade 91254-1 connected to? Is it just a length of pipe venting above the waterline?

my understanding is that just attaching a tube leading somewhere over the water line will do the job and this si what I have done originally

BUT for exmaple when the boat is tied to the pontoon switch to forward and push the trottle the water disapears from the pipe - the vacum generated from the prop sucks the water and in my view the seal can run dry and not coll itself prperly ... then as I have already installed the Eliche Rdice version and moving back to Volvo version is a hastle especially when already in the water I decided to reda the Elicha-Radice documentation in details and it clearly states that you need to connect the vent to a house which is from the raw water pump to pump some water in the shaft - then I routed a bit complicated system that devide the water from the raw water pump in two ( the smaller hose to the shaft seal) and also get it about 1/2m higher then the engine and have a additional path that can get the excees out of the boat also - and now all seems good from installation point of view but still I do not like the rubber cap for the greasing and decided to go this time with Orbitrade version...

[pblancha]

Thanks vtomanov.
I contacted info@frigus.se who make the Orbitrade 91254 and 91254-1 to ask them what the brass parts are for. They say:

"Stuffy box with two brass nipple

Front nipple are for greasing the box
The other are for cooling water or air bleed the stuffy box

We have two dealers in UK

ASAP supplies
Keypart
"

So maybe the air bleed option should be OK. Maybe I will fit it as an air bleed and then test it as vtomanov has. I have raw water cooling to the back of the gearbox, so I can probably tee into that to take a feed to the 91254-1 if I need to.

I contacted ASAP Supplies as they dont list the 91254-1 and they are getting some in soon