What oil to use in Westerbeke 4-230?

[sailingunity]

I have a Westerbeke 4-230 in my sailboat, the manual for it specifies straight 20 weight oil, which of course is not readily available. I found 15W-40 Rotella "T4" at my local Walmart, will this do?

I found a used bottle of 15W-40 on board, but it had steering fluid in it, so I can't be sure this is what the previous owner used on this engine.

[Sailmonkey]

I wouldn't hesitate to use 10w30 or 14w40 in that engine. Unless you find some really bizarre oil, the modern formulations will more than cover the requirements of the engine

[jstevens]

I was faced with the same issue years ago when in the Med. My W60 was spec'd to use single weight 30, which at the time was generally available in the states, but hard to find in the Med (unless I bought a 55 gal drum). After questioning everyone I could think of (with no response from Westerbecke) I switched to 15W40, and continued to use that oil for several years after returning to the states. The engine was still running fine, although showing lots of rust, when I repowered.
In your place I would try to get a recommendation from Westerbecke, but selecting a multi-weight that covers the recommended 20 weight should be fine.

John

[Catalysis]

Chevron Delo 15W40 or Shell Rotella 15W40 would be perfect.

[Jim Cate]

this will likely be viewed as heresy, but I think any decent oil will serve well. I think we tend to overthink this issue, for our usage (as sailors) is pretty low stress relative to lube issues. Changing at proper intervals is a lot more important that the exact grade of oil chosen... yacht engines seldom have issues related to lubrication. Failures are mostly due to contaminated fuel, overheating due to exchanger or impeller failure or electrical issues (on newer engines).

As we have traveled around in third world areas, getting the "right" oil has been difficult at times. We've just gone with whatever the local truckers used,and it has never caused a discernible problem. But we have always changed regularly... oil, tranny fluid and filters.

Jim

[Catalysis]

Jim, I agree that regular oil changes are most important but the hydroprocessed lube oils such as Chevron Delo and Shell Rotella are thermally superior due to their synthesized molecular structure and I would use them if available.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Catalysis

Jim, I agree that regular oil changes are most important but the hydroprocessed lube oils such as Chevron Delo and Shell Rotella are thermally superior due to their synthesized molecular structure and I would use them if available.

Gets back though to his point on the oil not being stressed much, and I agree.
I am a proponent of good Syn oils, but do readily concede that in a normally aspirated small boat Diesel it is probably wasted money, you just really have no need for that good of an oil.
Little Diesels like ours do soot up the oil rather quickly, so it's better to change way more frequently and use an inexpensive oil, than it is to use a high grade of oil and not so frequent oil changes.
I finally went back from Rotella T6 to just straight grade Rotella 30W in my 30 yr old Yanmar, and of course there is no discernable difference other than cost.
My oil temp runs about 165 under cruise if I remember right, my wife's car it runs well over 200 for example, and if pushed, much higher.
I still use good oil filters though, just cant bring myself to go cheap there, yet.

[SV Bacchus]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I still use good oil filters though, just cant bring myself to go cheap there, yet.

I doubt many would disagree with this!

[Catalysis]

A64pilot, without wishing to debate this I will point out that a catalytically manufactured oil (I'm not referring to Mobil #1 synthetic) is more homogeneous with far fewer light end components than solvent extraction produced oils. This means that there are less "light ends" recycled via crankcase recirc systems. While not a factor in conventional diesels it can make a difference in electronically controlled common rail units.

[uncle stinkybob]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Gets back though to his point on the oil not being stressed much, and I agree.
I am a proponent of good Syn oils, but do readily concede that in a normally aspirated small boat Diesel it is probably wasted money, you just really have no need for that good of an oil.
Little Diesels like ours do soot up the oil rather quickly, so it's better to change way more frequently and use an inexpensive oil, than it is to use a high grade of oil and not so frequent oil changes.
I finally went back from Rotella T6 to just straight grade Rotella 30W in my 30 yr old Yanmar, and of course there is no discernable difference other than cost.
My oil temp runs about 165 under cruise if I remember right, my wife's car it runs well over 200 for example, and if pushed, much higher.
I still use good oil filters though, just cant bring myself to go cheap there, yet.

Another problem with synthetic oil is if your engine leaks oil at all or has worn seals, it will leak much worse than with standard petroleum oil.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Catalysis

A64pilot, without wishing to debate this I will point out that a catalytically manufactured oil (I'm not referring to Mobil #1 synthetic) is more homogeneous with far fewer light end components than solvent extraction produced oils. This means that there are less "light ends" recycled via crankcase recirc systems. While not a factor in conventional diesels it can make a difference in electronically controlled common rail units.

Catalysis, I think this may be a case of your knowing "too damn much" about the subject!!

I have no doubt whatsoever that some oils are superior to others, no matter what the application. My point is that even mediocre oils will do an adequate job of lubrication in engines such as the OP's (remember? his query was about a 4-230, not a common rail, electronically injected whizz-bang). Being obsessive about this or that type of oil, especially w hen in foreign lands with foreign (to us) nomenclature on the oil containers can only lead to frustration and worry... worry that I believe to be unnecessary. I was attempting to relieve the OP from that distress.

You sound like someone with specialized knowledge of petroleum chemistry, and I bow to that knowledge. But as a rather long term user of small, low powered diesel auxiliaries, I still think my points are valid.

Jim (whose last boat's engine was running strongly after >6000 hours and mostly using simple oils found in third world countries, with incomprehensible gibberish on the labels!)

[bigman1]

I have a perkins 4107 and only use straight sae 30.One of the big boys yanmar I think said not to use any multigrade or synthetic.I would also recommend zx1 oil additive,saved my engine when oil pressure droped to 0 great stuff.Check online for stories about syn.oil and zx1.

[a64pilot]

The myth of syn oil causing leaks is mostly just that, a myth.
I say mostly as there is some truth to it, if your old engine is sludged up and this sludge is helping old leaky gaskets seal, a good syn oil has very good detergent properties and can clean out some of the sludge over time, and this can lead to leaks.

If any of you are old enough to remember engines that ran non detergent oil, what happened if you ran detergent oil on one, pretty similar to switching to syn oil on an engine that has run Quaker State forever and missed more than a few oil changes.
However my 30 yr old Yanmar doesn't even have any seeps, much less leaks, even running T6 Rotella Syn oil.
On my common rail Duramax, I do run the T6.

[Don1500]

I only have experience with 3 diesel engines, The Westerbeke 27, The Universal MX25, and the Volvo Penta TMD40B. All three are now recommending 10W40 multigrade. It was listed in the Westerbeke and Universal manuals. Volvo had to be a Bit@h about it and it took me an hour to find a note that said "Volvo Penta has discontinued the straight 30 weight oil and now recommends SAE 10W-40 synthetic." (You can see the note HERE) You can take that for what it is worth. I use Rotella. I also agree that the main thing is changing it regularly (I do it at 100 hrs).

[uncle stinkybob]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

The myth of syn oil causing leaks is mostly just that, a myth.
I say mostly as there is some truth to it, if your old engine is sludged up and this sludge is helping old leaky gaskets seal, a good syn oil has very good detergent properties and can clean out some of the sludge over time, and this can lead to leaks.

If any of you are old enough to remember engines that ran non detergent oil, what happened if you ran detergent oil on one, pretty similar to switching to syn oil on an engine that has run Quaker State forever and missed more than a few oil changes.
However my 30 yr old Yanmar doesn't even have any seeps, much less leaks, even running T6 Rotella Syn oil.
On my common rail Duramax, I do run the T6.

As an H.P. engine builder and engine re-builder I assure you it is not a myth, but do as you think fit.