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Chief Engineer · 10-08-2010, 19:58

Has anyone here ever had that experience?

I am getting mixed opinions from welders up here....

shakey doug · 10-08-2010, 21:04

Gday Chief,
Have only welded with success oil pans on bench not it situ. Fitted double plates over corroded areas & drain sockets for ease of oil draining,early times using gas and bronze, we now have a tom-terrific silicone bronze mig that makes the job sooo-- easy . Preparation, degreasing, buffing etc is paramount.
In situ probably possible with care using mig & short weld runs cooling with wet rag in between runs if temp is kept low hopefully oil sludging should not happen. Have seen pans on the job that have successfully been welded in situ with out any obvious problems.

delmarrey · 10-08-2010, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chief Engineer

Has anyone here ever had that experience?

I am getting mixed opinions from welders up here....

I assume it's a steel pan. That really get's me why any marine motor manufacturer would use a steel sheet metal oil pan.

I lost a motor back in the 80's because the oil pan turned to a sieve one winter, and the damn oil pressure alarm quit working too. You could hold the pan up to the sun and it was like the stars at night.

Don't try welding! Just buy new, it's safer!!!!

never monday · 11-08-2010, 03:34

need more inf Chief

**capngeo** · 11-08-2010, 07:42

I have 3 Yanmars; all have aluminum pans. I have been certified for over 30 years and weld a lot of stuff. That said, oil soaked aluminum is a PITA to weld! One would think the heat of welding would remove the oil, but not everything is burnt, and the residue will float through the weld leaving pin holes.

If I have to make a repair to oil soaked aluminum, I degrease, machine the joint (no sandblasting or grinding as those present their own negative issues), and weld hotter than normal. I'll also re-puddle the weld several times with either stainless brushing or machining between each pass. Don't expect the cosmetics of virgin metal, and take care to identify and fix any stress cracks in the weld area.... they can be hard to see unaided!

klem · 11-08-2010, 15:49

Yes, you can weld it but it may not be the best choice. Why does it need welding in the first place? Is it cracked for some reason or is it corroded? What is the material?

Welding them in place is quite difficult although it is successfully done on cars from time to time since they tend to have better access. Once you have lifted the engine, you can usually get the pan off so you may as well fully replace it. Cleaning metal, especially aluminum, so that you can weld it will be a real pain.

Unfortunately, the answer is it depends on what you want to get out of it. If you are not looking for a long term solution, it would be fine but chances are, replacement would be wiser. Plenty of old farmyard machinery is running around with the blocks held together with JB weld and it works fine for them but isn't something that they can really count on.

Chief Engineer · 11-08-2010, 16:50

We have decided to get a new pan.......I agree with the oil contamination part......New Pan? Close to 600 buckaroos.

Chief Engineer · 11-08-2010, 16:58

Ok, you are asking what happened. The oil dipstick on the Yanmar 3JH was cracked and leaking. Prior to my getting there, attempts were made to get the banjotype bolt off....no joy. When I got there, any wrench, socket, vise grip, small pipe wrench would not grab, as the head was deteriorated with no "square edges"...the wrenches et.all would slide up and off.

I attempted to shock the bolt head with a chisel.....on the fourth crack....the fitting and part of the pan cracked off. I wasn't using a big hammer....and I have got some "OMIGOD" ones.

7 hours later....(the next day) I had the pan off...more rusted, rounded bolts. The pan is severely pitted.....it has been in water for some time in the past and electrolysis has "done its' thing"

I hate it when this kinda stuff happens.....when you try all the avenues.....and nothing works. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**David M** · 11-08-2010, 20:23

What is Yanmar thinking?

For less than $600 you could probably get one custom fabricated out of stainless steel.

Stillraining · 11-08-2010, 21:02

How about lining the inside with something like epoxy after a good degreasing and bead blasting?...If its only the dip stick tube that's the real problem...isit that up near the flange edge?...

But even if its all thinned out Weld it and line the whole pan...I don't think it could separate off in chunks that way.

**capngeo** · 12-08-2010, 06:42

From the sounds of it, the hourly rate expended in the R&R exceeds the value of the pan.... Why-oh-why would one put anything less than new back on?

That said, if the pan sits in bilge water I would coat the new one with a layer of coal tar or epoxy before re-installing!

Stillraining · 12-08-2010, 16:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by capngeo

From the sounds of it, the hourly rate expended in the R&R exceeds the value of the pan.... Why-oh-why would one put anything less than new back on?

That said, if the pan sits in bilge water I would coat the new one with a layer of coal tar or epoxy before re-installing!

Hmmm...Lets see...

De-greasing...my solvent tank..free...20.min
Bead blasting...my blast cabnit...free...30 min
Me welding it...Barrow my buddy's tig welder....rod 2.00..30 min.
Epoxy...less then 20.00 ( if this would work)..two coats 20min each

600.00
- 22.00
___________
$578.00 savings.... admittedly I have an advantage at getting some of this.

( Taxes on 600.00 more then covers electricity, and wear and depreciation usage cost of my equipment...buy my buddy a half rack of his favorite beer for use of his welder...help him drink it while I'm there welding it up..so I'm not counting that ...

My time of about two hours actual work is saving 90.00 per hour so I don't count that either..

Would it work?...Should IMHO.

New is good though, if its for a customer or your flush with cash..

Benifits...

1) Done and back on the engine in 2 days
2) cheap
3) you know it fits and all the holes line up...the drain plug is on the correct side...and forgoing all those other replacement part headaches we have all encountered.
4) Enjoyed beers with your buddy..."legally" as far as the wife is concerned...

Risks:

1) It dosest work very long and starts leaking anyway.
2) Have to pull it off again and buy the new one...

3) Consume way more beer.

**capngeo** · 12-08-2010, 18:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stillraining

Hmmm...Lets see...

De-greasing...my solvent tank..free...20.min
Bead blasting...my blast cabnit...free...30 min
Me welding it...Barrow my buddy's tig welder....rod 2.00..30 min.
Epoxy...less then 20.00 ( if this would work)..two coats 20min each

600.00
- 22.00
___________
$578.00 savings.... admittedly I have an advantage at getting some of this.

( Taxes on 600.00 more then covers electricity, and wear and depreciation usage cost of my equipment...buy my buddy a half rack of his favorite beer for use of his welder...help him drink it while I'm there welding it up..so I'm not counting that ...

My time of about two hours actual work is saving 90.00 per hour so I don't count that either..

Would it work?...Should IMHO.

New is good though, if its for a customer or your flush with cash..

Benifits...

1) Done and back on the engine in 2 days
2) cheap
3) you know it fits and all the holes line up...the drain plug is on the correct side...and forgoing all those other replacement part headaches we have all encountered.
4) Enjoyed beers with your buddy..."legally" as far as the wife is concerned...

Risks:

1) It dosest work very long and starts leaking anyway.
2) Have to pull it off again and buy the new one...

3) Consume way more beer.

I was referring to the R&R (Removal and Reinstallation) labor...

BTW bead blasting, solvent tanks and aluminum welding are not a good mix