Water pump bearings, $30 ones or $4 ones?

[Privleoplag]

Ok..I've been searching out replacement bearings and seals for my water pump">raw water pump on my Yanmar 3ym30. Here's what I find.. OEM replacement bearings over $30 each, searching out the part number inscribed on the bearing.. as low as $3.50. hmmm. Also, a 50% difference on the price of the lip seal.

I'm never happy with what the marine parts cost over what they should cost.

[SV Bacchus]

That is even a question? I'm with you, don't wanna pay more just because it says "Marine"!

[Diesel Bill]

Most bearings and seals for that matter will be used for more than one application and can be cross referenced from one thing to another. An example, I needed a front axle bearing for a 67 BSA Spit Fire motorcycle. The bearing crossed over from a rear axle bearing from a MG car. Very few bearings are use specific except taper roller bearings.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Diesel Bill

An example, I needed a front axle bearing for a 67 BSA Spit Fire motorcycle. The bearing crossed over from a rear axle bearing from a MG car. Very few bearings are use specific except taper roller bearings.

Oh wow, I had a 68 BSA and an MG, those English, they are scary. Do they build good boats?

[Privleoplag]

and I had a '71 Triumph 650 Tiger. Hated the oil tank in the frame.

[Jim Cate]

OP, I'm not sure if you are asking aquestion or not. In case you are, using the bearings and seals from industrial supply house will be perfectly all right... because they are exactly the same thing. Yanmar/Johnson don't make special bearings, they buy them from the same guys that sell them to the supply house.

I've been doing this for over thirty years, and have had no discernible ill effects from the practice.

Jim

[sailah]

I buy a lot of bearings. Yes all bearings have a size code on the races. They will be a number like 6208. Just look up that number and buy what you feel comfortable spending. There are sometimes a couple numbers and letters after the bearing number.

2RS- raised seals on both sides
2ZZ- shields on both sides

For a pump I'd think you'd want sealed bearings but check what you removed.

Often when I'm looking for a bearing I'll shop the number on EBay and if I find a quality manufacturer like SKF, Fafnir, Timken, FAG I'll buy those New Old Stock bearings first. Chinese bearings are decent quality mostly but it's hard to know which ones are good.

I've bought from these guys before. I have used quite a few Nachi bearings and they are good quality. I think they used to all be Japanese but I've gotten some that were marked China.

http://www.vxb.com/

McMaster has a pretty good selection of bearings and seals.

Your local bearing supply store is usually a good option but you'll probably be paying close to list not being an industrial customer.

[Crew of Turning]

Totally agree that bearings and seals are quite generic. We have a raw water pump on our 2QM20 that has started to weep. If I could find a new one out there, we would be looking at $800 USD plus shipping. Tearing down the Yanmar parts code we found that the bearings are SKF at $11 bucks Cdn each and the Lip Seals are also inexpensive. The wear plate might be an issue yet, I think we can just reverse the face.

[Bulty]

OP, care to share details of where you found? I am currently looking at rebuilding mine as well and just happen to have same engine.

[Crew of Turning]

Originally Posted by Bulty

OP, care to share details of where you found? I am currently looking at rebuilding mine as well and just happen to have same engine.

The bearings are SKF6202 with full face seals. The lip seals are coded by their size in mm as follows TC 13x28x7 and TC 15x 30 x 7. You should be able to get them at any automotive or bearing supplier. In my situation Canadian Bearings. I am picking up the seals this morning.

[bobnlesley]

Based on my experience with the 3GM water pump, you definitely want the $4 bearings as the 'genuine' Yanmar ones are rubbish - not stainless - ane the waterseals sold with them seem specifically designed to fail at the earliest opportunity.

I don't kno if YMs use the same (Johnson) pump, but the bits you need for a 3 or 2GM are:
Bigger bearing – S62012RS. Smaller Bearing – S60012RS. Seal – SEAL2-VITON 12-24-7 R23 (double lipped) O-Ring -11 x 2.4mm – 24N0116

The original seals are single lipped, replacing with a double-lipped one moves the contact point, handy if your shafts old/worn. Choosing a viton seal's not essential either, but they're only a few cents more expensive and it was suggested to me that in the event of impellor failure and associated heat increase, a viton seal would survive a little longer.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Crew of Turning

The wear plate might be an issue yet, I think we can just reverse the face.

You can, but I would "face" the worn side as long as its flat with a stone to renew it so I could flip it again if necessary

[Rapanui]

You may want to read this thread, which has the specifications of the bearings and seals including a post where the guy has uprated the seals to viton. The parts are really cheap and easily available
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ld-175009.html

[Elie]

Balmar nor any other diesel engine manufacturer never made their bearings, or even the pumps : They do like you. In fact even the pumps are made else where. They do like you, with one more parametter: least cost possible. Even the pump manufacturer like Johnson pump, Jabsco, etc.. don't make bearings, impellers, and I guess other parts they list. So you better buy the best replacement parts available from the specialists like SKF Timkens or others. Chose stailess steel bearing. Anyway they will cost you much less than whatever Yanmar or worst what Volvo will sell you.

[Privleoplag]

Originally Posted by bobnlesley

Based on my experience with the 3GM water pump, you definitely want the $4 bearings as the 'genuine' Yanmar ones are rubbish - not stainless - ane the waterseals sold with them seem specifically designed to fail at the earliest opportunity.

I don't kno if YMs use the same (Johnson) pump, but the bits you need for a 3 or 2GM are:
Bigger bearing – S62012RS. Smaller Bearing – S60012RS. Seal – SEAL2-VITON 12-24-7 R23 (double lipped) O-Ring -11 x 2.4mm – 24N0116

The original seals are single lipped, replacing with a double-lipped one moves the contact point, handy if your shafts old/worn. Choosing a viton seal's not essential either, but they're only a few cents more expensive and it was suggested to me that in the event of impellor failure and associated heat increase, a viton seal would survive a little longer.

Yup, pretty much what I figured out. large bearing is 6201-2RSH and the small bearing looks like 6001-2RS JEM. I had to go by the measurements and do a lot of google searching for the small bearing as the numbers on it could not be read. For the lip seal the numbers on it were GACO BPSM 12247. The pump model number is 128990-42510, and/or 10-13492-01, the one with 19.5 mm intake and 17mm out.

I'm ordering 3 of each.. one for the current rebuild, one for the other pump, and one for spares.