Volvo Penta MD2030 control panel issues

[robgsailor]

I have a few problems with my 2003 VP2030 control panel.

The water temperature light and the glow plug lights do not work when the ignition is on.

The buzzer alarm does not engage when the stop control is pulled out.

I had a quick look and tested both light globes and the buzzer independently and they all work.

What should I be looking for that no longer engages the buzzer alarm when the stop control is pulled out?
Where does it get its current from?

Why would the 2 globes not light up when starting the engine? They do switch off when the engine is running.

Appreciate your help.

[tkeithlu]

Disclaimer: I am not familiar with this particular panel.

Current is for these alarms is dependent on sensor switches on the engine. They are little modules screwed into the engine with pipe threads. The one for oil pressure is closed until oil pressure opens it. The one for water temperature is open until high temperature water closes it. The oil pressure alarm should come on when the ignition switch is on, and saty on until the oil pressure rises. The water temperature alarm will be silent until (if ever) the water temperature spikes because your coolant drained into the bilge.

Go find the sensors. The likely problem is that they are not opening or closing when they should. Determine that they are receiving voltage when the switch is on. Failure of the oil pressure sensor is then easy to test: It stays closed when the engine starts. Failure of the water temperature sensor is more difficult, because it may switch at above boiling temperature, particularly if you have (you probably do) a pressurized cooling system. Sensors are generic and available a an auto parts store. Just take it with you to get the threads right.

[AMOREST]

Most likely a multi pin connector is loose - try unplugging and re-plugging in whilst shut down.

This VP control panel also has a logic unit (Part VP 873737) which can fail and you can usually find a spare in ebay or maybe coastal rides.

Circuit Diagrams are in a specific Workshop Manual - available on Google.

ps - the Buzzer is not meant to beep when the engine shuts down, it just beeps if there is an alarm - it should have a toggle switch for ALARM TEST / GLOW. - if this doesnt work - its likely a connector fault.

9/10 its likely to be a loose connection.
Cheers

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, AMOREST.

[robgsailor]

Thanks,

I have unplugged and reconnected the electronic panel to no avail. The temperature alarm light and the glow plug indicator light still don't work.

I will check the temperature sender, but I am suspecting that it may be the electronic panel failing as the glow plug indicator on the panel doesn't work and I know that all 3 glow plugs work well.

So, I will buy the electronic panel and replace it hoping that that will fix it.

Thanks for your help

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by robgsailor

Thanks,

I have unplugged and reconnected the electronic panel to no avail. The temperature alarm light and the glow plug indicator light still don't work.

I will check the temperature sender, but I am suspecting that it may be the electronic panel failing as the glow plug indicator on the panel doesn't work and I know that all 3 glow plugs work well.

So, I will buy the electronic panel and replace it hoping that that will fix it.

Thanks for your help

Replacing the entire panel is a possible fix but tkeithlu gave you a more complete answer. Diagnose and fix the problems rather than replacing the panel.

There is one cause that could be responsible for all of these issues. The keyswitch may not be providing +12 volts to the alarm circuits.

The temperature alarm light will not light until you have an overheat situation. Test the circuit. Put the engine key in the run position without starting the engine. Ground the wire on the temperature sensor. The light should light and the alarm should sound. If so there is no problem. This does not test the sensor. To do that it has to be removed from the engine and heated to the temperature trip value.

The glowplug light should only light up when pre-heating before starting, not while the engine is running. To test the preheat light first be sure the glow plugs have power. Test by putting the keyswitch (or pre-heat button) to preheat and read the voltage at the glowplugs. If there is voltage then somewhere there is a broken wire from the glowplug circuit to the light. This will take two people to do the test. One to hold the button and one to measure the voltage.

Does the buzzer sound when you start the engine? If not the buzzer circuit is bad.

There is no point in paying for a new panel when this is a wiring or keyswitch issue. You may throw money at the problem and not fix it. These circuits are electricity 101 issues, treat them that way.

[Xavier2018]

I have a similar issue but with the battery alert. The engine starts and the alternator charges the battery. But a few seconds after starting, this alert goes off. I believe it's a sensor issue rather than a real battery problem. Any suggestion?