Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

[polak1958]

I have 2 D2-40 engines on my cat and both have now had the exact same heat exchanger problems noted in this thread. Both engines are less than two years old and have ~970 hours on them. These should be under Volvo warranty, but I have been told they do not cover corrosion issues under warranty, and at $2042USD each the parts are very expensive.

I found a place that rebuilds heat exchangers in Christchurch (I am currently in New Zealand). Hope they can fix the buggers.

[LLizzard]

Originally Posted by emeraldsea

So I ordered a new D2-40 without gear. The original will be a winter rebuild project. If it's worth fixing then perhaps I will see about getting it going without the "black box".

I'm going to make sure the EVC is protected from moisture & I'm going to T in a flush line into the raw water line so I can keep the heat exchanger flushed when not in use.

I agree, installing a fresh water flush should help. What about using one of the salt inhibitor additives like Salt Away or Salt X? That stuff supposedly stops corrosion completely.

[Paul L]

There is a recall on the Volvo D2, maybe you can get a new one.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ll-188024.html

[polak1958]

I am not familiar with the recall. Where can I get information on that?

[polak1958]

I was off the boat for three months in the last two years and had a salt removal solution in the engines at that time. It did not work for me. As for flushing with fresh water, that's not hard for me now that I think about it. Just shut off the water intake and pour it into the strainer, just like I did with the salt removal solution.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by polak1958

I am not familiar with the recall. Where can I get information on that?

See the link

[polak1958]

No link there, but I saw on their website where I can look by serial number and will do that. Thank you.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Paul L

There is a recall on the Volvo D2, maybe you can get a new one.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ll-188024.html

Originally Posted by polak1958

No link there, but I saw on their website where I can look by serial number and will do that. Thank you.

The recall notice is in the CF thread linked to above.

[Newf1]

Originally Posted by Rolloh

I just thought I'd throw my 2 cents in.

The heat exchanger manifold on mine at 353 hours was eaten through by cross contamination do to design default. The O-Ring on the rear cap does not seal, allowing salt water to eat away the cast iron until it breaches into the coolant. You won't know that it has happened until you see an excretion out the sides of the rear cap. There is as I'm sure you've seen, another guy with 30 hours with the same problem. I would not buy Volvo again because of the cost of parts (manifold heat exchanger) $2000.00
A bad design and they will not stand behind there engines. I take care on the scheduled maintenance as provided in the owners manual and better.
I change out every spring all filters and syn oil, fuel filters as well. So on my part, I do it. On their part, they've dropped the ball big time as far as I'm concerned. It does run well, great economy, forget the service, too costly, as well as parts as stated. STAY AWAY FROM VOLVO !!!!!!

I'm new to this forum and found it while researching heat exchanger issue on the D1-30 that's in my 2014 R21-EC Ranger Tug. I'm surprised that this has been a known issue for some time now and no fix from Volvo. I am now dealing with same issue with corroded casting due to salt water leak past the end cover o-ring. I've repaired corroded area with steel epoxy and now waiting for new end cover to arrive as old one was warped from the salt/calcium build-up. I plan on applying some type of gasket compound on the two o-rings in hopes that it will help make a better seal. Almost 1500hrs and this is my first problem so compared to others I guess I should be thankful.

[Jackytreehorn]

Ugh,

This isn’t exactly what you want to stumble upon when you have this engine in question. After reading a few similar threads I went into my local VP dealer and asked some questions. They seemed pretty relaxed and non chalant. They punched my serial number in to see if my engine was fitted with replaceable anodes to help combat the corrosion on the heat exchanger. No such luck.
I walked away with the advice to check the o rings on the cooling system and change my coolant “from that green stuff to the long life stuff”.
Overall, I’m not feeling to confident.
Engine has under 400 hrs but only because it had been sitting for ages before I came along.
Luckily I found it being kept in the Fraser river and that’s where I also chose to moor it. So hopefully the brackish water gave me a good flush..?
Anyways, I haven’t been upside down in a small, semi confined space for awhile so maybe I’ll start taking things apart and inspecting them.

[Newf1]

Hi Jackytreehorn,,, If you decide to pull the end covers off of the heat exchanger I would suggest you use new O-rings. Not sure what model engine you have but I have the D1-30 and it has 2 o-rings on each end of the exchanger core element. $25.00 Cdn each. I popped out the core so needed all 4. Corrosion was on the discharge side of the exchanger. After the repair was completed I covered all surfaces with thin coating of Permatex gasket sealant before installation of the o-rings. This was recommended by a VP mechanic who was aware of the corrosion issue. I trailer my boat and it's in and out of the salt chuck about twice a week. After each use I drain the saltwater out of the exhaust riser and if it's going to sit more than a few days I flush the engine with fresh water. If yours had been sitting awhile before you bought it you might want to give it a good flush with something like Salt Away or a similar product.

[Jackytreehorn]

I went down today and pulled off the discharge end. It was relatively dry and showed no sign of corrosion.

That was a pleasant surprise. I also noted that my exhaust line dips down before it circles back up and runs out for discharge . Perhaps it’s to keep the raw water level down and drain out the exchanger when not in use.
Maybe the brackish water has been sufficient to flush sea water out. Access was much better than I was expecting