Volvo Penta 2003 reroute raw water

[RtlNh]

I am having an issue sourcing a riser block for my Volvo Penta 2003. Do to how low the engine sits I’d really like to have that riser in place rather than go without and just have the exhaust elbow. I don’t want to risk using my existing corroded water block as is. So, I’m considering plugging the water passages in the riser block and rerouting the raw water line from hx direct to the elbow on top of the riser instead. That’ll leave the 3” block dry but that’s seems quite acceptable. The problem I’m having is how do I get hard copper water line up to the exhaust elbow? Any ideas? My instinct would be to cut the line and leave a 2” stub out of the elbow and use hose instead of the copper run to another stub at the hx. Any thoughts? Thanks

[Lepke]

There's a lot of Volvo risers on ebay. I'd have a stainless one made.

[jamhass]

Best to source a replacement riser, but lacking that you have a couple of options.

1. The copper tube is (or is very close to) a 1/2 inch copper tube (US size) and you can cut and solder in an extension to fit the new configuration quite easily. I have repaired these tubes very successfully that way.

2. Since both ends of the tube are clamped (not just fitted in place) you could cut and use a hose, but you might provide some additional support for the hose to relieve stresses on the ends.

Also: are you sure that is on the raw water side? Looks to me like it is coolant running through the riser block and exhaust elbow. On my 2003T the line from the head is certainly coolant.

[RtlNh]

Thanks for the info that’s very helpful. I did purchase a new stainless exhaust elbow that I’ll be using but the riser block under it is the part that’s proving difficult to find. Having one made is far too costly.

Good to know you’ve repaired just by soldering in new sections. That was my first thought but I didn’t know how the thinner walled pipe would hold up or how the solder would handle it either.
I’ll take a good look and decide what action to take.
Thanks

[RtlNh]

Jamhas-
Just to clarify. You’ve used type L copper pipe with hardware store type copper couplings and solder to repair the Volvo cooling lines successfully? If so that’s awesome and I’ll go that route. Obviously keeping a close eye on the repair knowing it won’t be as good as original.
Thanks again
Ryan

[jamhass]

I don't recall the specific copper type, but it was pipe not refrigeration tubing. Yes, ordinary solder. If you are concerned about temp, you can use silver solder.

[RtlNh]

Cool. Thanks