Volvo md2030d fuel pump.

[Stevemattingly]

Hi guys, I have been task with rebuilding a perkins 3 cylinder diesel with the volvo penta fuel pump. Basically the pump is running fuel to number 1 (and nearly starting!) but no fuel at number 2 and 3. Assuming the pump is at fault I am now trying to remove for a service. Following the manual I should be able to undo lift and remove circlip and remove. However I can only lift it a small amount and cannot access the clip. Any ideas welcome. Many thanks Steve

[skipperpete]

Are you able to move the stop control? It sounds like 2 of the pump elements are stuck at the top of their strokes and depending on where the fuel rack was when they got stuck determines how easy or difficult it will be to extract the injector pump. If there’s a solenoid stop on the aft end of the injector pump mounting casting, unscrew that to avoid damaging it and if you treat the manual stop lever too aggressively while trying to free the rack you’ll bend the tab on the governor link and the timing cover has to be removed to repair it.
It’s a spring pin that holds the governor link to the rack pin, thread a bit of fishing line through the eye to avoid it getting dropped during extraction.

[skipperpete]

Here’s a pic of the pump

[Stevemattingly]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Are you able to move the stop control? It sounds like 2 of the pump elements are stuck at the top of their strokes and depending on where the fuel rack was when they got stuck determines how easy or difficult it will be to extract the injector pump. If there’s a solenoid stop on the aft end of the injector pump mounting casting, unscrew that to avoid damaging it and if you treat the manual stop lever too aggressively while trying to free the rack you’ll bend the tab on the governor link and the timing cover has to be removed to repair it.
It’s a spring pin that holds the governor link to the rack pin, thread a bit of fishing line through the eye to avoid it getting dropped during extraction.

Hi Skipperpete, many thanks indeed for your reply. The stop control was very stiff but does move. I guess you are correct that two pump elements are stuck. I had removed the casting nut and the rack arm appears to wiggle but not move back and forth. I have given it a light tap but no movement. The body does lift up but not enough to expose the spring pin. I will try moving the stop cable and see if it helps. Many thanks again and I will keep you posted!

[skipperpete]

Yeah , take it easy with the manual stop….. although if you plan a rebuild as previously posted , you need to take the timing gear cover off anyway.
Here’s a tip for the one time that its impossible to extract the injector pump because of the jammed fuel rack but it ain’t nice…… remove the delivery valve holders from the two stuck plungers and take out the valve, spring and (possibly the spring button if there’s one) then refit the now empty delivery valve holder. Then get a bit of bronze brazing rod that will fit in the hole in the holder…a short bit with a flat end… and put it into the hole till it stops against the plunger head and lightly tap the rod in the hope that the plunger will release and snap back to the cam due to the pressure of the return spring. Do this on the next plunger and if successful, try and rotate the stop lever clockwise. If all goes well the rack will move to the position required to lift the pump, remove the spring clip and extract the pump. This is a last ditch resort because its possible to damage the brittle plunger but since 2 are stuck it usually means 3 new pumping elements are going into that pump anyway.

[Stevemattingly]

Wow! That is impressive and does make sense I guess. As you say a little risky but possibly the only option. I think I will have a try at least and let you know. Many thanks again for your consideration in my dilemma!

[Stevemattingly]

She's out! Off to specialists for rebuild. Definitely 2 stuck. Tvm again skipperpete. It was a b'stard to get out!

[Stevemattingly]

Hi, good news is she fired up. However despite the throttle being off she went straight to full throttle! Checked the linkages and all seemed fine so I am now wondering if in re inserting the fuel pump something is out of line? The rebuild was of the pump was beautiful and everything looked and felt right. I will ask the rebuild guy on Monday for any thoughts but wondered if any Pete or anyone else could shine a light meantime. Many thanks Steve

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by Stevemattingly

Hi, good news is she fired up. However despite the throttle being off she went straight to full throttle! Checked the linkages and all seemed fine so I am now wondering if in re inserting the fuel pump something is out of line? The rebuild was of the pump was beautiful and everything looked and felt right. I will ask the rebuild guy on Monday for any thoughts but wondered if any Pete or anyone else could shine a light meantime. Many thanks Steve

Hey Steve, this might be the problem I mentioned with the stop control tab getting bent , the damned thing is thin steel, fragile and bends if the stop lever is moved with too much force in an effort to free the rack. If I’m right, the only way to fix it is to remove the timing cover and bend the tab back to 90°. There was a thread about this a year or two ago where a member explained how he bent it and how he fixed it. I’ll post a photo of the inside of the timing cover and the tab if I can find one.

[skipperpete]

Here’s a pic of what might be the problem, its not very clear but it shows the tab and the stop lever cam

[Stevemattingly]

Brilliant again Pete. I shall have another go on Monday and keep you updated. Have a fab weekend

[Stevemattingly]

Am I missing something Skipperpete. I am sure I have all of the bolts removed from the timing cover but it is not moving. The manual I am using looks different and on line says I have to remove pulley, drain coolant and remove pump etc.
My pump rebuilder suggested it may be a spring that has detached inside the cover. Either way I just need access! I am close to putting up at white flag and calling in perkins engineer! Appreciate any further help before that dark moment!

[skipperpete]

Ok, the problems are
1. The key in the crankshaft… it may damage the seal so just take it out.
2. The long guide stud…. It goes through the timing cover and has a nut and washer.
3. The lube oil pump is sometimes a real pain…. It goes into a hole in the timing cover and its a very neat fit.
Go back and take a close look at the perimeter of the timing cover to make sure you got all the bolts out and the nut off the long stud, if its all clear then tap a knife blade into the gasket to get the timing cover joint to release and carefully wriggle the case off the stud and oil pump.
There is only one spring that can cause trouble , its the tiny thin idle spring and it stays in place hooked in a little cutout on the edge of the timing cover, just make sure it stays in position.
I actually have to do this same job tomorrow on a Northern lights genset, same engine as the 2030.
Refitting the timing cover is a bit tricky, the oil pump end plate has a roll pin that locates in a hole to stop it turning ….. can be difficult to line it up as you refit the timing cover.

[skipperpete]

Long stud and locating hole

[Stevemattingly]

Oh, still a bit of work to do! This engine is sitting in a catamaran pit so accessibility is somewhat restricted.
I will have another play. I am certain all the bolts and nut is off. Many thanks, Skipperpete. Always much appreciated. Good luck with yours!