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Longhair · 27-05-2006, 08:55

Hello All,

I just completed my first passage from Tampa to Isla Mujeres, Mexico. It was great except 16 Miles from Mexico my drain plug came out of my motor and I lost all my oil. After it cooled I refiled and it started however it has very little power and knocks. I refilled it with 90 weight oil and it did not help any. My question is should I bother with trying to fix it or should I replace it. I have found no parts in Mexico and very little people who can tell me for sure any information. I have heard about a tractor dealer/salavage yard in the interor about 150 miles and may try to see what he has.

Any help to get started will be appriciated.

Thanks,

Stranded in Mexico

never monday · 27-05-2006, 09:19

This is a repairable situation. Don't scrap it!!
Most likely you need new rod and main bearings. At worst you could pull it and ship her home to me.

DeepFrz · 27-05-2006, 10:29

Why don't you call the Westerbeke distributor for Mexico. He may be able to direct you to a dealer

Main Contact(s): Mr. Omar Dosal
Phone: (525) 294-0565

Longhair · 27-05-2006, 13:15

I have not been able to reach Omar on the telephone. I found out more today about a distr. in Cancun.

Pat, I might take you up on the sending it to you offer or just see if you have the parts I need and come get them. I have decided to pull the motor on Tueday and take it apart I found the facilities and will start Tuesday. Do you have any suggestions or tips?

Thanks,

Matt

DeepFrz · 27-05-2006, 14:35

Hi Matt, Pat,
I may be sticking my head in a noose here but I would think that because of your loss of power as well as the knock you have more damage than just conrod bearings. Although you didn't mention smoke so maybe I am off base here.

I think that you may have to at least replace the rings and maybe hone(?) the cylinder sleeves. Geesh, I don't even know if they do that any more...<g>

Also maybe valve stem seals.

Pat, don't you think these items should at least be checked, going by the symptoms Matt laid out?

It is hard to judge the extent of the damage before tear down.
Phil.

ps: the loss of power could be because of a burnt valve.

hellosailor · 27-05-2006, 16:20

I thought oil drain plugs in marine engines were more or less forbidden by USCG and the optional (i.e. ABYC) standards, for exactly this reason. Was this something that you installed, or original to the boat?

FWIW, I'd have the drain plug's head cross-drilled and have a lock wire added next time around. I like drain plugs, I just don't trust anything that can come undone by itself.

never monday · 27-05-2006, 18:05

DeepFrz.
If he's going that far he'll need to pull the pistons out and have a look at them any way to get the crank out.
At best, it's polish/turn the crank and replace bearings. Hone the cylinders and replace the rings. I think the head will be ok. I'm attributing the loss of power to the loss of lubrication and partial siezure.

DeepFrz · 27-05-2006, 18:22

Pat,
You are most likely right. You have seen a lot more of these than I have. It's been a long time since I worked as a mechanic.

Cheers,
Phil

never monday · 27-05-2006, 18:55

I guess his real question is, how long does he want it to last? That will ultimatle determine wether it's a quickie in MX or a total rebuild in the states.

**Alan Wheeler** · 27-05-2006, 21:34

Pats right on the money. There will be little to no damage anywhere else than the bearings. These require oil pressure to maintain a cusion of oil that the bearing surface floats on. Once the oil pressure stops, it scuffs up the bearing suface into shavings very quickly. The first thing Matt will find is he carefully drops the sump off, is a small pile of metal shavings on the sump cover, under each bearing. It is the pressure that is more important than the oil to a point. If it was just oil, then the engine would actually run for quite some time with little damage. But as soon as pressure goes, then catastrophic damage is done in very short order.
Matt, I would consider even just removing the crankshaft and sending that back to Pat and have him regrind it. Then Pat can arrange over sized bearings to suit and send a package back to you with what is required and you can reassemble it. I would rather do it that way than go down the track of an engine you know very little about and then have to try and fit it in. It can be a nightmare fitting another engine in.

hellosailor · 28-05-2006, 06:14

Alan, my understanding is that those low-presure situations are the main reason to switch to a synthetic oil, even in a diesel. The synthetics are usually tailored to have a better thin-film sheeting action (i.e. they turn glassly under pressure from the moving parts in confined spaces) and often other additives (i.e. molybdenum) so that they offer better protection at startup (when there is no pressure) and during failures. Not necessarily enough to save an engine--but a better chance of it.

never monday · 28-05-2006, 06:25

Hello,
I agree. Synthetics can be good in an engine. Unfortunatly most people switch to synthetic to early and never fully seat a new or rebuilt engine.

hellosailor · 28-05-2006, 06:31

PAt-
If there ever really was a break-in problem documented, does it still exist? A number of high performance auto engines (including Corvette) have been shipping pre-filled with "ordinary" synthetics since assembly, no apparent problems from them. I know there were problems specific to aviation use (yah, oopsie indeed) and old worn engines sometimes burn a bit more simply because it leaks through...but breakin problems? Documented?

never monday · 28-05-2006, 06:38

Both Porsche and GM-Corvette division ship their cars full of Mobil 1. These engine have been run on a dyno and broken-in to a level they consider complete. Our diesels only get about 2 hrs of dyno time before instalation in a new boat. A diesel being lower reving than gas takes almost twice as long to break in. I wouldn't got synthetic in our engines till after 800hrs. My Cummins in my truck won't get synthetic untill it reaches 100k miles.