Two-cylinder diesel: one hot, one cold!

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by NevisDog

Foolish words.

To remove the exhaust manifold, there is one nut that is totally inaccessible without first removing the tubes for the pushrods, which of course requires removal of the two cylinder heads. In the end this was a good thing as the raw water holes in the lower cylinder block were much blocked with lime, even after treatment, and needed mechanical removal - what a glorious mess, must never have been cleaned, ever!

So now, with the whole thing rebuilt, we have identical temperatures in both cylinders. With the bypass still in place, cooling water temperature is in the low 30s (doesn't register on temp gauge, which starts at 40 C). Checking the entire surface of both cylinders with a decent quality laser thermometer, surface temp varies from 35 to 50, with a one-off maximum 67 C recorded at one specific spot (at base of cylinder, below where cooling water circulates).

Despite no more drips from fuel lines, starting is still reluctant. I've been told to have injectors cleaned - certainly looked like they needed it. But I can live with it as is if need be - at least it's no longer frying eggs

ok now this may sound weird but next time you change fuel filter fill it about half way with Mercon dextron transmission fluid ( the red stuff used in Chevy trannys) top off with diesel. Will clean the inside of the engine real good.

[Bleemus]

Glad you sorted the temp issue out. An injector clean will improve starting if they have never been done.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by newhaul

ok now this may sound weird but next time you change fuel filter fill it about half way with Mercon dextron transmission fluid ( the red stuff used in Chevy trannys) top off with diesel. Will clean the inside of the engine real good.

I have to clarify this advice comes from a friend of mine that owns Skagit injection services. He builds race trucks for fun. ( semi-truck) he also recommends a pint of 2 cycle oil per 10 gallons of diesel to improve lubricity and to raise the cetane value. ( diesels version of octane in gasoline)

[NevisDog]

Originally Posted by newhaul

I have to clarify this advice comes from a friend of mine that owns Skagit injection services. He builds race trucks for fun. (semi-truck) he also recommends a pint of 2 cycle oil per 10 gallons of diesel to improve lubricity and to raise the cetane value. (diesels version of octane in gasoline)

I've read about adding 2-stroke oil to diesel - sounds safe enough. So that's 1 pint to 80 pints diesel (my Yammy outboard runs 1:100); I have about 80 litres in the tank so add 1 litre 2-stroke? It'll be hard to mix with the tank nearly full - in petrol (gas) it sinks to the bottom until shaken up, so maybe I should wait until filling up time. I'm having injectors cleaned so will see how it starts then before any further changes. I guess the next thing to check will be compression.

Something I heard years ago is don't keep pre-mixed outboard fuel more than a few months - since my tank of diesel will likely last me a year or more (it does have additives/biocides to prevent microbes) maybe it will settle out or otherwise turn bad in that time?

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by NevisDog

I've read about adding 2-stroke oil to diesel - sounds safe enough. So that's 1 pint to 80 pints diesel (my Yammy outboard runs 1:100); I have about 80 litres in the tank so add 1 litre 2-stroke? It'll be hard to mix with the tank nearly full - in petrol (gas) it sinks to the bottom until shaken up, so maybe I should wait until filling up time. I'm having injectors cleaned so will see how it starts then before any further changes. I guess the next thing to check will be compression.

Something I heard years ago is don't keep pre-mixed outboard fuel more than a few months - since my tank of diesel will likely last me a year or more (it does have additives/biocides to prevent microbes) maybe it will settle out or otherwise turn bad in that time?

no biocides. Its just heavier oil than diesel. Never had it " settle out" just add when you fuel . Look at any other cetane additives. Or any lubricity additives. Same thing just a heck of a lot cheaper. And you can go heavier on the oil mixture won't hurt anything . That was just his "optimum " for cost/ benefit in his Kennworth t2000 racer that he did pikes peak with.

That bit about outboard fuel is reffering to the alcohol in gasoline drawing moisture and a thing called phase change. ( personally I have never had an issue even with 2stroke fuel that was over a year old.)

[NevisDog]

Originally Posted by newhaul

... And you can go heavier on the oil mixture won't hurt anything . ...

You can be sure I'm keeping note of all this stuff.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by NevisDog

You can be sure I'm keeping note of all this stuff.

I gots many more pearls about diesel engines from my days of long haul. ( Newhaul aka Newby Hauling)

[Badsanta]

Pass them on newhaul.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by NevisDog

.....
Despite no more drips from fuel lines, starting is still reluctant. I've been told to have injectors cleaned - certainly looked like they needed it. But I can live with it as is if need be - at least it's no longer frying eggs

Originally Posted by Bleemus

Glad you sorted the temp issue out. An injector clean will improve starting if they have never been done.

You might like to try cleaning your injectors yourself.

Now I am certainly not an injector expert - far from it - but I stripped down and cleaned my first injector yesterday and I was surprised how easy it was. Maybe that is because it is a simple design and maybe some injectors are complex but I reckon your Arona injector will be simple.

I did need some encouragement from another CF member to give it a go but I am now laughing at my reluctance to pull it apart.

This following not be the best approach but I simply soaked it overnight in diesel (still assembled), then removed all exterior crud with a scotchbrite pad. Then undid the various parts and noted the order they came apart, proceeded to carefully clean the carbon and varnish etc from the bits and bobs inside, again using diesel and the scortchbrite and some toothpicks.

Once spotlessly clean (using a magnifying glass), reassembled it with clean diesel.

Sure I can't test it for the correct pressure but I can test it for spray pattern once the rest of the engine is back together. The are some safety precautions you need to know if you do attempt to test it outside the engine. Keep hands and all parts of your body well away from the nozzle; it can (and will) injector diesel straight though you skin and people have died from diesel injection into their hands.

[NevisDog]

Originally Posted by Wotname

You might like to try cleaning your injectors yourself. ... I am now laughing at my reluctance to pull it apart. ...

I thought about it but decided I only need to drop one small part and it would cost me a new injector. I have a very small workbench - anything I drop could disappear forever. Maybe next time. $65 NZ per injector seems a small price. Good on you for attempting it though.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by NevisDog

I thought about it but decided I only need to drop one small part and it would cost me a new injector. I have a very small workbench - anything I drop could disappear forever. Maybe next time. $65 NZ per injector seems a small price. Good on you for attempting it though.

just change fuel filter and add tranny fluid. Neck mix up about a gallon of diesel and a cup or two of tranny fluid in day tank and run it thru the engine then restore the normal fuel line arrangement. Done deal . You will notice the difference almost immediately.

( side note md3 or md4 tranny fluid is petroleum based soap.)

[NevisDog]

Originally Posted by newhaul

just change fuel filter and add tranny fluid. ...
(side note md3 or md4 tranny fluid is petroleum based soap.)

Okay, next time - I already sent injectors to Diesel Maintenance Ltd yesterday, their price seemed good and they were recommended by the Lombardini agents ("Err... we COULD do it, but try DML down the road..."). Those injectors could be 30 years old (engine is older than this boat!?) and may need more than just a clean. It has done 5,500 hrs since installation, may have been second-hand, and there's little sign of maintenance being done.

I take it then that Mercon Dextron is "md", and any md3 or md4 ATF will do?

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by NevisDog

Okay, next time - I already sent injectors to Diesel Maintenance Ltd yesterday, their price seemed good and they were recommended by the Lombardini agents ("Err... we COULD do it, but try DML down the road..."). Those injectors could be 30 years old (engine is older than this boat!?) and may need more than just a clean. It has done 5,500 hrs since installation, may have been second-hand, and there's little sign of maintenance being done.

I take it then that Mercon Dextron is "md", and any md3 or md4 ATF will do?

that is correct md3 md4 is mercon dextron and will be labeled as such and works great cleans the entire engine combustion chamber beyond just the injectors .