Originally Posted by LeighWebber
I thought about attaching a chain hoist to an overhead joist in my garage, but I was a bit concerned about the load. I think my house uses those I-joists (or maybe the lattice-type). Can't tell unless I rip off some garage ceiling drywall and look. How would I attach the chain hoist to one of those flimsy, new-fangled joists?
I had a support beam, so it was easier for me to hook up the chain fall. I just had to throw a chain over the support beam between the floor joists.
Even if you have built up joists, you likely have a metal support beam in the middle of your garage carrying the ends of the floor joists. That can be a great place to tie on to.
If you have lattice joists or I-Joists and need to lift from mid-span, you need to connect the top flange and the bottom flange to your lifting point. If you are just pulling on the lower flange, the glue might fail and the bottom flange will break.
If this is something that you are going to use regularly, I'd fill in the web area with plywood
, glued and screwed. for a single
lift point, have the plywood
extend at least two feet to either side of where you are going to mount the anchor
ring. If you are conservative, rip down a 4x8 sheet and put 8' lengths in there. When the web is flush with the flange, through bolt the whole assembly in at least three spots. Add some strapping (1-1/2 inch wide) running from the top flange to the bottom at the ends and middle of the filler boards to tie the flanges together. These can be screwed to the flanges, two each side. In the middle, bolt on your lifting hook.
I don't know where you can buy a lifting hook, so I'd just bend some 3/8" rod in a "U" shape and weld it to some plate steel
and through bolt the plates to the joist and filler.
If your garage had a drywall ceiling, as long as you make the lifting loop long enough, (4 inches or so), you should be able to put the drywall back up over the hole with just the loop sticking out, giving you a nice finished look and a permanent lift point.
The filler plywood that you are placing in-between the joist flanges will stiffen the joist and spread the load out over the length of plywood you put up there. Since the plywood on edge is very strong and will not bend, this adds a great deal of strength to the joist. The straps on the ends of the reinforcement are to tie everything together and make sure that you are not just pulling on glue joints. Tying the top flange to the bottom one with the straps makes the entire joist and reinforcement work
If that seems like too much work (house modification) for a one off project
, screw some 2x4's to the ceiling running 90 degrees to the ceiling joists. If you have drywall, don't worry, just run the screws through the wood and drywall into the joists.
These 2x4's are only there to stabilize the lifting beam and to provide a gap for the chain.
Grab three 4x4's. Put the lifting beam (4x4) up against the ceiling 2x4's and put in a couple of toe-nailed screws to hold it in place. Carefully measure and cut the two support legs to carry the vertical load from the lifting beam to the garage floor. Tap them into place and toenail screw the tops. Throw your chain over the beam, add a chainfall and you are good to go. The 2x4's on the ceiling will hold the lift beam in place from any swing loads and the vertical 4x4's will carry the weight. When you are done, you can disassemble the beams and are only left with a couple of screw holes in your drywall.
No welding required. The wood is also easier to store than the engine crane.