Testing Yanmar diesel on the hard?

[Shrew]

When I run my engine on the hard I do the following:

1) Cut the female end of a garden hose leaving about 1 foot of hose
2) Buy a threaded garden hose shutoff
3) Run Full garden hose from spigot/hose bib to boat (This is the supply line)
4) install threaded shutoff onto the male end of the supply line hose.
5) Install the cut-off hose onto the shutoff
6) close the sea cock
7) open the lid to the sea strainer
8) Close the shutoff on the supply hose
10) turn on the water supply (bleed the air from the supply hose)
11) Fill the sea strainer with water.
12) Have someone start the engine.
13) Right when the engine starts drawing down water from the sea strainer turn on the shutoff.

At this point, you will need to manually tweak the water flow using the inline shutoff. It's easy to see whether you are overfilling, or under-filling the sea strainer. You will find a balance where the fill rate equals the draw rate.

NOTE: The 1 foot length of hose is to prevent water spraying everywhere when the inline shutoff on the supply line is half closed. without the hose extension, this makes for a very wet process. With the one foot section of hose, there is no spray, and the water stream is controllable.

[Boatwright]

Hey guys:

Please read the original question. There is no power and no water available. Any suggestions about letting a hose run are a no-go. Supplies, even the most basic hardware items may not be available. This sailor is on his own and is going to need encouragement and very basic help from posters who are familiar with his particular engine.

[Boatwright]

Speaking of being familiar with the 4JH2-TE........

Does anyone know for sure if it has compression release levers??

[Talbot]

There is another thread on here which talks about a similar engine and hydrolock. Suspect this may have some usefull data.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...te-220560.html

[j.g.evans]

If you have antifreeze in the fresh water system then take the belt off the raw water pump and run the engine for a few minutes in neutral. My Yanmar has compression release levers on each cylinder. Turning the engine over with the levers throw should blow out any water without major damage. If there is water then the rings may be rusted.

[BBill]

Lot of variables here. If the engine sat with water in the cyls for months it will will be locked up from rust...hydro lock is the least of your problems if water sat in the cyls. As mentioned already, put socket on the crank nut and gently rock back and forth to see if it moves. You can do this with or without the compression released but released would be my first choice. Be aware of the torque value on that nut so you don't exceed it by more than 10-20%. If that doesn't work it may be time to pull injectors and trying penetrating oil.

[Shrew]

Originally Posted by Boatwright

Hey guys:

Please read the original question. There is no power and no water available. Any suggestions about letting a hose run are a no-go. Supplies, even the most basic hardware items may not be available. This sailor is on his own and is going to need encouragement and very basic help from posters who are familiar with his particular engine.

I read the OP and I don't see that. Maybe you could point out that detail from the original post??

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Shrew

I read the OP and I don't see that. Maybe you could point out that detail from the original post??

It’s pretty correct or close to it anyway, boat is on the hard at Marsh Harbor boat yard, as you know Marsh Harbor got hit pretty hard.
I hope he will verify it’s not locked by getting a little movement out of the crankshaft, and then starting it for a few seconds, then splash the boat and look for leaks.
With little to no parts available, I’m not sure how much disassembly I would do myself, starting on for a few seconds without any raw water won’t hurt anything and will verify it will at least run

I’ve spoken to him as I’m in the Abaco’s, left Marsh Harbor this morning, he’s looking for some help if possible but won’t be down until I believe end of next week earliest.

[exMaggieDrum]

Hopefully you don't have any major issues. But regarding running the motor on a hard stand, a five gallon bucket would probably be enough water to get it started but you would run out pretty darn quick after. That depends on the raw water pump output of course. But you don't want to run it dry.



In my old diesel shop they would run a water hose with adaptors to the intake of the pump. You need some flow but not a lot of pressure.


Shrew has a good plan up above.

[BBill]

He may have dodged a bullet. One of my friends keeps two outboard boats on the hard at that yard about 6 mos a yr. One of them disappeared during the hurricane. The other broke loose and was found in the big pile of boats you see in the aerial photos of that yard. It was beat up a little but the engines didn't get wet. They started and ran fine after a couple months of sitting on their side.

As far as starting on the hard without water. No problem. I would see if it fires and immediately shut down, then put water to it. The impeller could be greased to help the cause but not needed just to hear the engine fire. I've done this with bronze (with grease cup) and rubber impellers without issues. Some Yanmars are known to pump water into the cyls with excessive cranking so I would take that out of the equation.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by Shrew

I read the OP and I don't see that. Maybe you could point out that detail from the original post??

Post # 19

[Ringmaster]

Every boat yard that I know of forbids running and engine on the hard. If you want your boat to fall over again go ahead.

[Rdubs]

Hi everyone thanks again for the great input.
I'm flying down in a few days to the boat and will know if fate has decided to throw me a bone or not.
I think what I'll do as some compromise is open the strainer inside the engine compartment and use water from the galley faucet with a hose to put some water in the strainer. Much will drain out of the saildrive bottom but that's okay, all I'd be trying to do is get some water into the rubber impeller to lubricate it a bit. Then I'll try to crank it for a bit while holding down the fuel cutoff button in order to get some oil circulating prior to actual ignition. Then I'll do a real crank and see if it fires up, if so just run it for a few seconds. Maybe put it in gear for a second and pray the prop spins without problems.

Ringmaster your point is taken about the vibrations from the engine could rattle the stands and make the boat fall over. Hopefully I'll avoid that testing it for a short period.

BBill, thanks for the note about your friend. Nice ray of hope.

I'll let you all know Thursday how it goes.

If everything works and I make landfall in Florida without calamity, drinks are on me my friends.

[Rdubs]

Related question for you guys. I'd like to clean out the water intake passages in the saildrive. Is the best way to just pour water down the hose from the strainer coming from the saildrive and let it reverse flush out the intake ports? I think there's one big port on the bottom, I'll tape over that to get more water coming out the side intake ports.

[Ringmaster]

I would suggest that you check with the management at your marina/boatyard regarding running your engine on the hard. At the very least check your contract. If your boat goes over and takes 3 others with it guess who's liable.