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pianopraze · 21-01-2021, 16:11

Took my Prout snowgoose out for its first extended trial on engine. It was doing fine just around bay and at idle.

I’m going down canal and get to bridge. Waiting for opening I throttled down to idle without going into neutral. When I Put it back up to 2500 rpm to go through once it opens the engine bogs down and almost dies. Anytime I put above 1500 rpm it just goes down to idle.

I dock. Spend night at city marina by bridge. Next morning going back I go though bridge and maybe 100 feet and again it goes to nothing. I’m able to limp along at 1100 rpm for at 1/4 mile then it starts chugging and dies. Then I’m able to go another 1/4 mile at dead slow. 1000 rpm but in gear. Then it dies. Then no matter what I can’t keep engine going for more than a minute at a time. No real headway. At this point check engine light comes on. I turn it off and get a tow from a friend back to marina.

Talk around everyone thinks bad gas.

Engine has very few hours on it but it sat for a year and a half before I bought it.

Before Trial running it I drained gas. Then filled it with new gas from marina with no ethanol. Then changed the oil. Engine sounded great at idol running for extended periods of time before trial where it failed.

Today I went to buy new gas filters. It has to a water separate gas filter between tank and engine and a fuel filter in the engine. They had to order and I will pick up tomorrow along with new spark plugs.

Several suggested sea foam cleaner.

Do you Think these steps will fix it. If not what should I try.

It is fuel injected.

Any help Or suggestions Welcome. Forgive typing errors I’m not good typing in my phone.

sagablu · 21-01-2021, 17:00

A lot of possibilities, but check the vent on the gas tank. When it starts bogging down unscrew the gas cap a bit and see if you hear air entering the tank.

Compass790 · 21-01-2021, 17:04

No experience with that engine or seafoam but wouldnt hurt to try the seafoam. I'd suspect the gas as well but since you changed it not so much, however as you've realised filters could be a problem.
I'd be tempted to put a bit of ATF or penetrating oil in the bores when you have the plugs out as well in case rings are sticky after sitting for a long while especially low hours ones. If you can let it sit overnite with the ATF in it would help.Definitely sounds more like a fuel supply issue tho.
Others with engine specific experience may chime in.
Good suggestion from sagablu, could be an easy fix.

Please post back what you find & good luck

pianopraze · 21-01-2021, 17:12

Ok will listen for air.

Will post back after changing filters and spark plugs tomorrow if they cone in on time. Two hour round trip to Cape Coral and back once they call me telling me they are in, and they are only open until 5.

Thanks again.

rbk · 21-01-2021, 18:34

Try pumping the fuel bulb see if it perks up, could be a bad fuel pump (chances are it’s fine but an easy test to eliminate one more thing)

If that’s not it run a test on your coils, you’ll have to look at the procedure for your specific engine but a blown diode will produce similar results, and another easy test to do with a multimeter; it would idle all day no power/bogging.

Another thing to check is the rectifier output, throw a multimeter on your charging battery and look for a proper output, a blown rectifier can cause the ecu to limit power output to avoid melting the stator but still get you home (at least on bigger engines).

CaptNemoO2 · 21-01-2021, 19:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by pianopraze

Took my Prout snowgoose out for its first extended trial on engine. It was doing fine just around bay and at idle.

I’m going down canal and get to bridge. Waiting for opening I throttled down to idle without going into neutral. When I Put it back up to 2500 rpm to go through once it opens the engine bogs down and almost dies. Anytime I put above 1500 rpm it just goes down to idle.

I dock. Spend night at city marina by bridge. Next morning going back I go though bridge and maybe 100 feet and again it goes to nothing. I’m able to limp along at 1100 rpm for at 1/4 mile then it starts chugging and dies. Then I’m able to go another 1/4 mile at dead slow. 1000 rpm but in gear. Then it dies. Then no matter what I can’t keep engine going for more than a minute at a time. No real headway. At this point check engine light comes on. I turn it off and get a tow from a friend back to marina.

Talk around everyone thinks bad gas.

Engine has very few hours on it but it sat for a year and a half before I bought it.

Before Trial running it I drained gas. Then filled it with new gas from marina with no ethanol. Then changed the oil. Engine sounded great at idol running for extended periods of time before trial where it failed.

Today I went to buy new gas filters. It has to a water separate gas filter between tank and engine and a fuel filter in the engine. They had to order and I will pick up tomorrow along with new spark plugs.

Several suggested sea foam cleaner.

Do you Think these steps will fix it. If not what should I try.

It is fuel injected.

Any help Or suggestions Welcome. Forgive typing errors I’m not good typing in my phone.

This guy on YouTube I think had a similar problem with the 9.9hp EFI. He has the diagnostic software, not sure where he got it from though. He used fuel stabilizer, and allegedly that caused issues.

https://youtu.be/QUQcWrIOdLM

pianopraze · 22-01-2021, 02:27

I tried pumping bulb while we were having the trouble. It made no discernible difference.

I put stable however it is spelled in correct amount in the fuel. I can’t find any references to it causing such a problem anywhere other than that guys videos. Could he have bought bad gas and tried fuel stabilizer blaming it on the stabilizer when it was just a bad tank of gas?

VBsail · 22-01-2021, 05:03

Are you running on a portable tank? If not I would borrow or buy one and a fuel line. Eliminates bad/collapsing hose, air leaking into fittings, bad fuel, old fuel/water in tanks issues all at once. Then you know for sure if its a motor or fuel issue.

Its easy to get frustratied chasing the issues one at a time and waste time with fuel treatments that arn't needed.

pianopraze · 22-01-2021, 05:34

Running internal tank.

Have external tank for my dingie but it is different plug (tohatsu). Guess I need to buy one to try that.

Captain Bill · 22-01-2021, 06:14

It sounds to me like the engine is going into limp home mode. If so the idiot light on the front of the engine should be lit. If you have an electric start engine you should be able to get diagnostic information from the idiot light flash codes. I have a DF15a, but manual start and one needs to supply 12V with a special cable for those to get the error codes. These codes will flash if you turn the ignition on without starting the engine on the electric start models.

Just found the service manual for this engine online. See pages 22-26 for info you need.
https://www.suzuki.hu/files/document...60-055(EN).pdf

pianopraze · 22-01-2021, 20:29

Ok, update.

Changed both filters, changed spark plugs, no change. Did exact same thing.

No error codes. No check engine. No Flashing. Nothing. 3 beeps on ignition which just means engine died.

Bypassed first filter. The external one. No change.

Bypassed internal tank, and external filter, hooking to external tank with brand new gas. No change.

No sucking air when opening gas tank.

Fuel pump?

Disassemble engine and clean everything?

It doesn't seem to be getting enough fuel. When I let it set for a while, it will start up for about 60 seconds, and even rev high, then bogs, and dies. Immediate start up it won't rev high, even if you raise idol, or put it in gear and raise throttle. Sit for a few minutes and then it will allow you to rev or idol high, for a few seconds then bogs down and dies.

Need to learn how to pull codes.

Life intervening. Wife has job interview then we are leaving Florida to go close on our house.

Won't be able to work on it for a while. Hadn't intended to leave this soon.

Thoughts still welcome, just will be a few weeks before I can work on engine again.

rbk · 22-01-2021, 22:14

If you have a blown backing diode on a coil pack it won’t throw a code but is an easy test with a multimeter and will produce some of the symptoms. Three beeps on most engines is a safe mode code. Have you checked the output voltage to your battery? Also check for proper procedure for testing the throttle position sensor, there are hacks that don’t require the harness adapter but you’ll need to find out the wires you need to test and the voltage setting for idle and high. They bump out extremely easy and will screw with the advance timing. Try pumping the primer bulb while it inning and see if there’s a difference. It sure if t
Your engine has a schrader valve to test the fuel pressure (you’ll need a test kit) but another easy test to eliminate fuel delivery if equipped. Start with the easy stuff.