stiff engine

[roland stockham]

Engine turns but only slowly and draws way to much power (off the scale on a 400A meter) It is a new engine. Ran fine when fitted but then got left for several months. During that time the water level got part way up the engine. It was washed and flushed and run for 3hrs buy the boat yard. They also did a couple of oil changes. Everything looked fine. When I got back to the boat the engine would not turn. I took the injectors out and soaked the pistons in deisel after which it freed up and turned. Can't see any evidence of problems, looking in the rocker box it all looks clean. Oil on the dipstick is also clean.
The one thing I have just found is that they put way to much oil in. It is about half way up the dipstick and 5 inches over the full mark.
Anyone hàve experience of overfilling an engin to this level and does it produce those symptoms?

[Jim Cate]

Oil is expensive, so I doubt that a yard will drastically overfilll your sump!

However, water is cheap and readily available... could be that another infiltration of water has raised the oil level on the stick.

Jim

[billknny]

I know it's not your first concern right now, but it should be...

How on earth does water get into an engine that is just sitting there? That should not be possible with a proper installation.

If it happened before, it will happen again unless it is fixed!

If the engine was installed by the same boat yard you are using to fix it, you might want to have another mechanic, experienced with engine installations, look at the details of the install.

[roland stockham]

Yep, checked by pumping out some oil from the crankcase and ther was water in the bottom with new clean oil on top. With everything drained and the injectors out it turns over OK. What do you reckon, just refill and try to start it then do another oil change or would it be an idea to flush with something like diesel to clean it out.

I suspect someone has left the inlet seacock open. At the moment I don't have an anti-syphon system fitted (cant get the correct hose)

[a64pilot]

Once you change the oil, I’d refill it with a new filter and run it for 5 min.
It will almost certainly be milky, change oil, new filter and repeat until oil is clear.
Then get into the habit maybe of hanging the keys on the seacock, in the hope that will remind you to both turn it off, and on before starting.
But I’d get onto that anti-siphon, cause of your engine isn’t ruined it will be just by luck.
I’m convinced that flooding is one of the biggest reasons engines die.

[roland stockham]

It wasn't me that did not turn off the seacock! And I will be sorting the anti syphon but an't get parts hear, need to go back to Canada. It takes 2 months to get anything shipped here if if arrives at all.

[a64pilot]

Your in Mexico?
I think maybe that Rich Boren runs a marine supply there. I may be wrong but if so, he may know how to get you parts faster.
Look up CruiseRO on the internet and give him a call, he posts here under the name third day

[roland stockham]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Your in Mexico?
I think maybe that Rich Boren runs a marine supply there. I may be wrong but if so, he may know how to get you parts faster.
Look up CruiseRO on the internet and give him a call, he posts here under the name third day

Wish I was somewhere that civilized!! Thay have haulouts and real boatyards. I am in N Panama, nearest suply shop is an 24hr bus ride, no phones, no post although there is a post office 60km away. Guenuine 3rd world situation.

[jamhass]

You don't really need a true anti-siphon.

You can make a simple loop rising above the waterline, and at the top of the loop place a plumbing "T" and fittings to rig a small (1/4 - 1/8 inch) tube. Run the tube to a convenient drain where you can see the piddle. For temporary, you can get away with copper. For really short periods, even galvanized, nylon or PVC. That part of the system sees little pressure.

Lots of folks with commercial vented loops remove the rubber duck bill to eliminate the common problem with salt plugging the vent.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by jamhass

You don't really need a true anti-siphon.

You can make a simple loop rising above the waterline, and at the top of the loop place a plumbing "T" and fittings to rig a small (1/4 - 1/8 inch) tube. Run the tube to a convenient drain where you can see the piddle. For temporary, you can get away with copper. For really short periods, even galvanized, nylon or PVC. That part of the system sees little pressure.

Lots of folks with commercial vented loops remove the rubber duck bill to eliminate the common problem with salt plugging the vent.

this is a far better solution than a traditional vacuum breaker valve. Has worked for us for many years with zero maintenance or failures.

Jim

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by jamhass

You don't really need a true anti-siphon.

You can make a simple loop rising above the waterline, and at the top of the loop place a plumbing "T" and fittings to rig a small (1/4 - 1/8 inch) tube. Run the tube to a convenient drain where you can see the piddle. For temporary, you can get away with copper. For really short periods, even galvanized, nylon or PVC. That part of the system sees little pressure.

Lots of folks with commercial vented loops remove the rubber duck bill to eliminate the common problem with salt plugging the vent.

This is how my boat was fitted when I got it and it just works.

[roland stockham]

Originally Posted by jamhass

You don't really need a true anti-siphon.

You can make a simple loop rising above the waterline, and at the top of the loop place a plumbing "T" and fittings to rig a small (1/4 - 1/8 inch) tube. Run the tube to a convenient drain where you can see the piddle. For temporary, you can get away with copper. For really short periods, even galvanized, nylon or PVC. That part of the system sees little pressure.

Lots of folks with commercial vented loops remove the rubber duck bill to eliminate the common problem with salt plugging the vent.

Yes that is the way I have always done it. Problem is the engine uses very large bore water pipes and I havent been able to sort out anything that will fit yet.

[roland stockham]

Thanks for all the imput. As usual when a problem is hard to track it is because you have 2 (or more) issues that overlap. So, yet there was water under the oil which I got rid of. But engine would only turn slowly. Turns out I had water in the oil AND a failed starter motor.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by roland stockham

Yes that is the way I have always done it. Problem is the engine uses very large bore water pipes and I havent been able to sort out anything that will fit yet.

Perhaps if there is a seller of agricultural plumbing in or near the area you are in they may have something that could be made to fit, if only as a temporary solution.

[a64pilot]

All you need to do is drill a small hole in whatever you have and screw in a 1/4” plastic nipple, connect vinyl hose to that and place the other end where it can drain overboard or be pumped overboard, some will run the hose into the cockpit drain so they can see the water flow, as long as there is water flow, there is water flowing through the engine cooling system too of course, think like the pee stream of an outboard.

You need an inverted U with the small hole it the top, a 1/4” is plenty to break a siphon, I’m sure a 1/8” would work too.

If I ever go to a dripless seal, I’ll likely plumb the hose to it