Sheared Bolt Head on a Universal 5411 Water Pump

[Contraman]

I was attempting to switch out a water pump for a Univeral 5411- it's a long story but I have two engines and the present water pump has a leaking water seal on the impeller shaft so I wanted to switch it with one from my back up engine.

There are two bolts holding it in place. One came out easily. The other was corroded. I tried every technique I could think of but eventually sheared off the head of the frozen bolt. This did allow me to change the water pump but it's only kept it in place with one bolt and the protruding stump of the sheared bolt. BTW, it's functioning fine with the present set up.

Any ideas on how to either get this bolt out or tap into it to secure the second mounting spot for the water pump?

Second question... what are my prospects for a 1980 5411 lasting. Right now it starts great and gets the job done, but am I looking at headaches with little problems like this water seal problem on the impeller shaft. Are they worth rebuilding. I have a spare engine sitting in my garage right now.

thanks.

[atoll]

if the stub of the bolt has sheared at the block then you need to drill a small hole into it,6mm for an 8mm bolt then use a tool called an "easyout" that has a reverse thread on it. similar to a thread cutting tool.

drilling the hole start with a 3mm drill and work up.

use a blow torch to heat the surrounding metal and use a thin screwdriver to apply engine oil to the bolt stub once red hot,bubbling indicates the oil is being sucked into the threads as the metal cools.

easy out tool - Google Search

[foggysail]

Too late now to try smacking it with a hammer. That usually helps to free the bolt.

I saw a guy i a TV show weld a nut on the top of a sheared bolt and then put a wrench on the nut. I do not envy your problem

[Fiveslide]

Titan stud removal tool should do the trick. Just google that and order it or find a tool store that carries it. It will grip just about anything. The more you turn the ratchet the harder it grips.

[PhantomBoatwork]

I have something like the same situation. A friend gave me an M-40 Universal in pieces that he got from a customer who repowered with something newer. I held on to the M-40 but would have gone broke replacing all of the "marinized" parts that weren't included. Eventually, I got a running M-50 and rebuilt it using many of the parts from the M-40. Turns out the Kubota block that it was based on has been the standard engine for skid steer loaders for the past 30 years or so, and parts are readily available and relatively cheap, as are the machine shops that service them. The bad news is that the marine parts are scarce and expensive- things like the water cooled exhaust manifold, the water pump and so on. But these engines are made to be repaired and rebuilt. They haven't completely succumbed to the built in obsolescence idea.
In your case, something like a water pump replacement isn't a death knell. There are a lot of ways to removed a sheared off bolt, and none of them are much fun. Sometimes all you can do is to drill out the bolt and make an oversized hole and tap for a new one. Torch, PB Blaster, drill and a dremel tool can all be used to some effect. In a lot of cases, if there is just too much corrosion, you can just buy the new replacement part and not worry about it. I suggest you check out your engine on the old Universal Marine Engine history page and see if you can find what you need from a Kubota tractor dealer. Hope this helps'
History of the Universal Motor Company 4

[perchance]

If the bolt head sheared upon removal chances are an "easy out" or similar may not work. I have on occasion gotten lucky by drilling out the old bolt to the original tap drill size and simply running the appropriate tap into the hole to remove the remaining thread. This is all predicated on getting as close to the centre of the broken bolt as possible. If drilled slightly off you can usually get away with it but the holding will be less than perfect.

[keepondancin]

I had to remove 3 broken exhaust manifold studs. NAPA has a stud remover kit that has 4 different sizes. They work like a drill chuck. You use a socket drive, and I forget whether 3/8" or 1/2". I sprayed the stud numerous times with PB Blaster, then before I put the stud remover on, I rapped the stud with a hammer to jar it. Each one came out. I would loosen a little, then back in, then loosen it a bit more, and worked it out.

When I looked at the stud removers, there is one that is one size fits all, and the one I purchased. I was very happy with the way they work. I have never had much luck with eazy-outs, they would break off inside the bolt, then you are really screwed because you can't drill them out as they are hardened.

[boden36]

You might want to try the following:
Heat the protruding part of the bolt to red heat for a while. The idea is that the bolt will expand in the hole and then shrink, loosening its bond with the hole. When cold,spray with a good penetrating oil and leave as long as you can. Bang the end of the bolt with a hammer. Clamp a good pair of vice grips onto the bolt and hopefully it will undo.

If this does not work, cut the bolt off flush and replace the water pump. Now get a drill that is a snug fit in the pump and use it to produce an indentation in the exact centre of the now flush bolt. Then using a series of smaller drills , gradually drill the bolt out. When you get to a convenient hole size, buy a coarse tap, left hand threaded, and cut a thread into the remaining bolt. It will probably start to undo during this procedure. If it does not undo, you can make up a left hand threaded bolt with a shoulder (or a nut ground down) and thread it into the hole ( or if the hole has not bottomed, until it jams) . When it can't go any further it will start undoing the bolt.

If none of this works, you can keep enlarging the hole in the bolt until there is just a tiny bit of metal left, which you should be able to peel out without wrecking the threads. Then run a tap through the hole to clean it up.

If you are still in trouble, drill oversize, retap and make up a stepped stud.
When you reassemble, use locktite or similar to prevent reoccurrence.

Accuracy and squareness are very important in all of these operations. You might want to make up a jig to guide you. Beware of drilling through into a water channel if there is one.
I avoid ezy outs like the plague, as noted by an earlier post.

Regards,
Richard

[perchance]

When anybody mentions red heat around a cast iron block I get nervous.
The mention of bolting the pump back on and using it to transfer punch the centre of the broken bolt is an excellent idea.
I am going to steal it and add it to my bag of tricks. Thanks

[boden36]

You will find if you heat the protruding bolt to red heat, very little heat will be transferred to the block, because the bolt is insulated by products of corrosion.
Regards,
Richard.

[Lepke]

Too late now but an impact wrench will usually remove a stuck bolt when a wrench just twists the head off.