Serpentine belts for Yanmar 3GM30F

[Roy M]

Even with considerable work to ensure alignment of the alternator pulley, on my Balmar, with the engine, I still get more black dust from belt wear than I would like. Has anyone installed a serpentine belt on their engine as an aftermarket item?

I found this article on the concept: http://www.oceannavigator.com/Septem...go-serpentine/

[Vasco]

No but I use Dayco top-cog belts on my 3GM30F and that seems to work better.

[Cheechako]

How many amp alternator on the V belt? single belt? Yes it's a problem.
I will second the Dayco Top Cog belts as being very good. Like many I used only Green Stripe belts for years. Once I had trouble finding then one I needed in FL so bought a Dayco Top Cog... It was even better than the Green Stripe.
The Top Cog may not solve your problem though... Hope you can find a solution.. waiting to hear back myself...

[Badsanta]

I looked at that kit wow lots of boat bucks. But I do feel your pain. I had a shop drill a larger hole in the mounting housing so I could use a larger bolt as I found some twist when tightning up the alt. Better but has not stoped the dust. I have to try a newer belt

[a64pilot]

I wonder if something between the two might not be the way to go, a toothed drive belt like a cam belt? Yes of course you would have to have both pulleys made, but you certainly wouldn't have ANY slippage and I think that compared to driving dual camshafts, even a high amp alt would be easy?

[Roy M]

It's an 80 amp Balmar (designed for this particular engine) with a Green Stripe Gates single belt.

[Cheechako]

I would see if you can get double v pulleys for significantly less $ than the serpentine. If you're working the 80 amp hard then you will see some belt wear and dust for sure. Possible to adjust the regulator back some without loosing too much charging? mayb e there's a sweet spot there somwhere.... wishful thinking... ahha
i had a lot of problems with the 100 amp Ample Power Alternator on a 30hp Yanmar. Never did solve the belt squealing when first started and burning up belts fast until I put the old regulator back on (an early balmar) it didnt work the alternator so hard and thus solved the problem.
What the world needs is a Regulator control panel with a big dial... just inch it back until the belt quits burning. Then after bulk charge open it up!

[Amnesia II]

You may want to check the Elecromaax website...they may have a serpentine belt/pulley kit for your motor.

I fitted one of their 180amp alts with serpentine kit to my 4jh3b yanmar motor...I have 4 spare belts but still on my first one after 2 yrs!

[Roy M]

Amnesia II ROCKS!!!! Thank you, this epitomizes the value of Cruisers Forum and its productive members. For those who didn't check it out: PK-3GM30F Yanmar Marine 3GM30F Serpentine Pulley Kit. You can also check out the other kits for different engines. Thanks, again, Amnesia II.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

What the world needs is a Regulator control panel with a big dial... just inch it back until the belt quits burning. Then after bulk charge open it up!

Don't tease me....

[Roy M]

Whew! Things happen quickly on CF. I went to the Balmar site (Welcome to Balmar) and found, what appears to be, the exact same serpentine kit. Way cool!

[Dsanduril]

It's called a 20 Ohm, 50W rheostat with a SPDT switch in the field current connection. Switch it to rheostat and you can dial up whatever charge current you want during startup and engine warmup, then throw the switch over to regulator control when you want to not manage the end stages. Total cost, $30. Used to be standard equipment oh so many years ago before all these alternators got so large and regulators got so "smart". Still have (and use) one with my Balmar alternator and regulator.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

It's called a 20 Ohm, 50W rheostat with a SPDT switch in the field current connection. Switch it to rheostat and you can dial up whatever charge current you want during startup and engine warmup, then throw the switch over to regulator control when you want to not manage the end stages. Total cost, $30. Used to be standard equipment oh so many years ago before all these alternators got so large and regulators got so "smart". Still have (and use) one with my Balmar alternator and regulator.

Yeh...Cruising Equiptment Co used to make one like that. Good for us all to know what the specs need to be , thanks.

[Dsanduril]

Depends on the alternator, but for a 2.4 Ohm winding (I think all of the Balmars and most other common alternators) 20 Ohms will allow you to adjust from 10-100% of rated output, can't get below 10% (you could with a higher resistance rheostat).

Again with a 2.4 Ohm winding, maximum required power capability in the rheostat is just under 25W, so 50W gives you some leeway.