Saildrive Volvo 130S, does the reverse gear oil heat up in idle

[CaptainRivet]

Hi all,
Does the reverse gear oil in a Volvo 130S saildrive heat up when engine running in idle.
I wanna change the reverse gear oil and heat it up to suck it out.
Just figured I can change oil from above without haul out on this saildrive, otherwise would have done it with the engine oil change.

Background:
I just bought a Lavezzi with 22h on the new engines D2-50 and new saildrives 130S but it was not used for 3 years, means all installed in 2019 and fluids are 3 years but 22h old. On the engine I replaced oil+filter already, run them for 20h and changed both to get all old slugh out, maybe unnecessary but spending 150Euro for a 55000Euro install gives me piece of mind.
Filters where org. Perkins, painted over by Volvo also on the seals and I needed special tools and a 1,4m extension to get the filter off the block

[DougR]

In general, if the saildrive is in neutral there will be little heat development in the saildrive oil at engine idle. This is because:
- the saildrive is electrically insulated from the engine flywheel housing by a plastic isolation sheet, and this sheet also restricts heat transfer from the engine.
- on the 130 saildrive, when the gearshift is in neutral, there is only the drive input shaft turning, and no gears are moving, hence virtually no oil churn and little internal heat development.
- about 50% of the surface area of the drive is in direct contact with the surrounding water, and water is traveling thru the internal saildrive passages on its way to the engine, thus any heat which might find its way into the oil will be readily transferred to the surrounding water

If the saildrive is in gear when the engine is idling, there will be some heat generated in the saildrive oil as a result of gear and shaft rotation and subsequent oil churn, but realistically, you will wait a long time for the oil temperature to change enough to make a significant difference in pumping ease.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by DougR

In general, if the saildrive is in neutral there will be little heat development in the saildrive oil at engine idle. This is because:
- the saildrive is electrically insulated from the engine flywheel housing by a plastic isolation sheet, and this sheet also restricts heat transfer from the engine.
- on the 130 saildrive, when the gearshift is in neutral, there is only the drive input shaft turning, and no gears are moving, hence virtually no oil churn and little internal heat development.
- about 50% of the surface area of the drive is in direct contact with the surrounding water, and water is traveling thru the internal saildrive passages on its way to the engine, thus any heat which might find its way into the oil will be readily transferred to the surrounding water

If the saildrive is in gear when the engine is idling, there will be some heat generated in the saildrive oil as a result of gear and shaft rotation and subsequent oil churn, but realistically, you will wait a long time for the oil temperature to change enough to make a significant difference in pumping ease.

Means pumping out cold ? Assume I cannot pump the majority out...
Or go out motoring, hit them hard with 2500 RPM and then change gearoil?

Oil is from 2019 but saildrives have only 90h each, Cat got new D2-50 engines/saildrives 130S in 2019 and then wasn‘t used at all. Bought it 2 month ago with 22h.
Engines I changed everything (was needed, oil looked and felt bad...racing since 30years so I know when an oil feels and is bad) but saildrive I just figured I can pump it out from on top and don’t Need a haul out. Oil looks and feels new, should I keep it and pump anytime it suits eg if I motored hard? Maybe 5min reverse in this 90h...

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by DougR

In general, if the saildrive is in neutral there will be little heat development in the saildrive oil at engine idle. This is because:
- the saildrive is electrically insulated from the engine flywheel housing by a plastic isolation sheet, and this sheet also restricts heat transfer from the engine.
- on the 130 saildrive, when the gearshift is in neutral, there is only the drive input shaft turning, and no gears are moving, hence virtually no oil churn and little internal heat development.
- about 50% of the surface area of the drive is in direct contact with the surrounding water, and water is traveling thru the internal saildrive passages on its way to the engine, thus any heat which might find its way into the oil will be readily transferred to the surrounding water

If the saildrive is in gear when the engine is idling, there will be some heat generated in the saildrive oil as a result of gear and shaft rotation and subsequent oil churn, but realistically, you will wait a long time for the oil temperature to change enough to make a significant difference in pumping ease.

Thanks mate. Is it normal for new Volvo engines that they drown them in green paint after they complete the engine ? Know this from overhauled engines but brand new ones?
Everything is seized due to a big layers of paint on these 2 engines. Even fuel bleeding screws need special tools, heat and a lot force to open. On one engine even that didn‘t work, last solution welding a hex nut on top so I can apply more force...well a M8 bleeding screw shouldn‘t need > 150NM force to open on a new engine.
That cannot be...normal on a 40years old Oldtimer engine rusting for decades in a farmers shed but on a new engine???

What are common problems or weak spots on the D2-50F and 130S saildrives?
Do you know the exact Perkins engine model or code that is used for the d2-50F, so I can use it to get a Perkins parts catalog?
Is there anywhere a list for the D2-50F which Perkins parts can be used or which Perkins parts are replaced by Volvo specific parts?