Repairing hole in coolant metal pipe

[Mike OReilly]

Engine: Perkins 4108

I've discovered a small hole, perhaps 2-3 mm, in a coolant tube. The pipe runs external from the aft heat exchanger forward, and then back into the block.

The hole was created by friction; metal-on-metal, which just wore away the coolant tube.

Can I use some sort of fibreglass cast or silicon ("rescue") tape to seal the hole? Or is there a better solution?

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/v...-0383807p.html

https://www.mcmaster.com/pipe-repair...1616518340161/

[AiniA]

Try using JB Weld. We had the pipe going from the block break as we were offshore from Brisbane. There was no wind so were motoring. Had to wait four hours for the engine to cool but lined up the broken pieces and covered the gap with JB Weld and then put a layer of f/g tape on and then more JBW. It was meant to be a temporary repair to get us to a marina where we were spending the cyclone season. It ended up staying there for years with no change except for colour. Not sure if you call f/g-reinforced JBW or JBW reinforced f/g but it worked a treat.

[rslifkin]

I'd be inclined to cut the pipe down at the ends, use a tool to make a bead to retain a hose and replace the pipe with a section of hose (routed to avoid chafe). Likely a more maintainable solution if a replacement pipe isn't readily available.

[Tetepare]

What kind of metal? A quick weld would do it.

I’ve never been impressed with JBW.

[JPA Cate]

Mike,

Take an aluminum beverage can, and with your tin snips, cut out a patch. Epoxy over the pinhole.

If you have any inner tube material, I would then glue the inner tube over the whole deal, and inspect whenever you have the engine box open. Should last for a loooong time.

Eventually, you may want to replace the pipe, but the season's short, so I'd do the short term fix, and maybe still glue on a sacrificial strip at the friction point. If you have it, a piece of teflon would be neat, but you'll have to screw it into tapped holes on the other surface. You could also, perhaps put a piece of shrink tubing over (after the patch) for a sacrifice.

Ann

[Mike OReilly]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I'm going to try using gasket material, cut to enclose the damaged area, and then clamp it down. If I can't find some old gasket I'll use silicon tape (rescue tape).

I'll seek a more permanent solution after the season is done here. For now, I just want to get back on the water (after over 2 1/2 years of being away!).

[5BTM]

What is the diameter of your cooling pipe?

When I damaged the transmission fluid line on my F150, I made a permanent repair using a rubber fuel line and fuel line clamps.

[zstine]

Quick/Temp fix include JB weld or hose clamping a piece of rubber over the hole. The latter has issues when on a curved pipe or if too close to fittings.


The permanent fix is to weld or braze the hole closed.

[Mike OReilly]

Just to finish, I ended up wrapping amalgam (rescue) tape around the tube, covering the hole. Left it for a while. This stopped the passive leak. I then used a hose clamp to cover the whole area, compressing and reinforcing the tape.

Ran it briefly. So far, so good. So I think I've got my temporary fix.

[Fore and Aft]

Mike if that fails you could always fiberglass the pipe. I had a job wrapping corroded or cracked steel gas pipes with fiberglass and carbon fibre in epoxy resin. Those pipes were up to 300mm diameter and under immense pressure.
Cheers

[Squanderbucks]

If the leak is not at a bend or at a joint then a permanent fix would be to cut the pipe in two near the hole leaving enough on each side of the cut to allow fitting a piece of hose with suitable clamps. Likely would never need attention again. Add a chaffing guard of rubber gasket material over it it still wants to rub.

[Mike OReilly]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'll probably look for a more permanent solution at the end of the season once we haul out again. I like the idea of the fibreglass sleeve, or removing the holed piece and replacing with a flexible hose, makes sense.

[jamhass]

Many of these pipes are copper, and standard fittings fit. Of this is true for you, you can nicely cut the pipe and solder back together with a union.
This would be a permanent fix, not just a bandaid .

[hzcruiser]

Gasket and clamps are a good idea, so is Ann's suggestion! Good luck, Mike!

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by AiniA

Try using JB Weld. We had the pipe going from the block break as we were offshore from Brisbane. There was no wind so were motoring. Had to wait four hours for the engine to cool but lined up the broken pieces and covered the gap with JB Weld and then put a layer of f/g tape on and then more JBW. It was meant to be a temporary repair to get us to a marina where we were spending the cyclone season. It ended up staying there for years with no change except for colour. Not sure if you call f/g-reinforced JBW or JBW reinforced f/g but it worked a treat.

I've done this too, no problems.