Remove perkins 4.108 cylinder liners with screwdriver

[toerail]

There is a way to remove perkins 4.108 thinwall dry cylinder liners without a press. Do this at your own risk. Take a small skinny screwdriver and start tapping it between the block wall and the liner, can apply heat inside the liner helps some people, keep the heat applied inside the liner where the tip of the screwdriver is, tap till the screwdriver reaches the bottom of the liner. Liners are brittle, they will either chip away leaving many chips till you reach the bottom or as you tap there will be a long strip of liner come off when you get to the bottom. Then just pull out the liner with pliers. There was no damage to the block wall in the videos. Be careful and dont use a sledge hammer or big screwdriver, around 1/8th inch tip screwdriver really long. Remember be careful and this is at your own risk. There are videos of this on youtube, hope this helps if you need to do this or are in the middle of nowhere. I will carry an extra liner coated in oil. Maybe try vegetable oil because it dries and leaves a sticky film but the film stays on until removed.

[skipperpete]

Toerail, this is a really bad tip to post on this forum. The traditional liner puller works well enough BUT getting the liners out is the easy part.... its putting the new ones in that gets tricky and even if you are able to install them without breaking the delicate brittle cast iron press fit liner they often still need to be bored to size and only a good machine shop should be trusted to do that. Far better to get them to squeeze out the old liners and press in the new ones without the spectre of a screwdriver groove rendering the cylinder block Fubar due to unskilled chiselling techniques.
Pete.

[toerail]

What, Thats your opinion, and bad comment
Are you a diesel rebuilder

Theres nothing tricky about rebuilding engines

Mechanics dont use a press except sometimes inserting the liners
Pressing out wet liners(Detroit, Caterpillar) I just use allthread and a liner cup

I dont even need a press for that

What is a traditional liner puller
The liner puller being sold now is not a complete circle

It either pulls into the liner cylinder or crushes the liner bottom often causing more problems
What is a good machine shop

Most are a rookie at this, incompetent, or just say we dont do that
Others specialize in heads only, and the hot rodders stick to car engines
Better to go to a diesel rebuilder

Most machine shops are for fabricating
Its hard enough just to get bearings pulled and pressed without damage
No the liners dont need bored, they are to thin now

All one does is run a hone through it
Putting the liners in is easy
Another method of removing these liners that I didnt mention is running a bead weld up the inside of the liner, then a screwdriver and pliers will remove it, the weld compresses the liner, I havnt tried that and am not a good enough welder, do this at your own risk again
Like I said, this is an alternate method
Perkins doesnt make parts for these engines any more
Parts can be crossed over to industrial and tractor engines if anyone is looking for parts
Most rebuild parts are in aftermarket kits now, pushrods, oil pumps, etc crossover Massey ferguson and new holland tractors

[toerail]

This is like no other liner
Need at least a 12 ton press
After putting thousands of lbs of pressure on there and they still dont release might change your mind, yes thats common, or when the cannon sound goes off from the release

[StoneCrab]

When I was unable to get my liners out I took the block to a machine shop. The mechanic welded a piece of angle iron to the liner. When metal cools after being welded it normally shrinks below its original size, so the welding did two things. It shrunk the liner some small amount and the angle gave them some thing to grab onto. There was some tapping with hammers but no hydraulic press on the removal.

This was a method that didn't occur to me. I found it interesting.

[jimbunyard]

You really don't need to be posting 'advice' on something you apparently know very little about.

Many, if not most, dry Perkins 4108 'liners', more appropriately known as 'sleeves', are semi-finished, that is the, outside diameter is finished and the inside is bored after fitting.

See page G2 of this manual for the proper removal and installation of dry sleeves, and page B4 of the same manual for the proper liner height and bore dimensions after their installation.

http://www.atlanticmobilemarine.com/...p%20Manual.pdf

These operations are not optional, despite' advice' given by the 'mechanic' above.

[StoneCrab]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

You really don't need to be posting 'advice' on something you apparently know very little about.

Many, if not most, dry Perkins 4108 'liners', more appropriately known as 'sleeves', are semi-finished, that is the, outside diameter is finished and the inside is bored after fitting.

See page G2 of this manual for the proper removal and installation of dry sleeves, and page B4 of the same manual for the proper liner height and bore dimensions after their installation.

http://www.atlanticmobilemarine.com/...p%20Manual.pdf

These operations are not optional, despite' advice' given by the 'mechanic' above.

You have to love a condescending expert!

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

You really don't need to be posting 'advice' on something you apparently know very little about.

Car to tell us who you are calling out or are you just buffing your ego?

I'd like to suggest that your tone and attitude is not helpful or productive.

There are many helpful posts here and stories based on experience. If you can't be kind and helpful, please discontinue posting.

Members of this forum and other people in general deserve respect and kindness. I for one am tired of the frequent negativity and rudeness that most of these posts are devolving into lately. Many times I just move on and don't respond but I've reached my limit on pompous, negative and insulting posts.

I think your post violates our community guidelines. I'll let the moderator weigh in if they see my response.

[bjp447]

I think toerail is here to just bust chops
Look at date when he signed up for forum.
Even to me, a true shade tree mechanic, it sounds flakey

[skipperpete]

The information provided by Jimbunyard in the thread is useful, informative, on topic and correct. I reckon his response to Toerail was very mild indeed.

[Wotname]

Yep, I reckon JimB was very reserved as well as offering good practical advice - as he always does!

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by StoneCrab

You have to love a condescending expert!

Car to tell us who you are calling out or are you just buffing your ego?

I'd like to suggest that your tone and attitude is not helpful or productive.

There are many helpful posts here and stories based on experience. If you can't be kind and helpful, please discontinue posting.

Members of this forum and other people in general deserve respect and kindness. I for one am tired of the frequent negativity and rudeness that most of these posts are devolving into lately. Many times I just move on and don't respond but I've reached my limit on pompous, negative and insulting posts.

I think your post violates our community guidelines. I'll let the moderator weigh in if they see my response.

Who knew a few apostrophes could be so "pompous, negative and insulting"?

The accurate, helpful, referenced statements in my post should make it clear to whom I was referring. Or so one would think.

If you have evidence to the contrary, please post it here.

If you want to see an example of members here actually being kind and helpful, rather than offering bad advice on how to do things the wrong way, I suggest you look at this post,

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...-a-210272.html

which is where 'Toerail' choose to begin telling everyone that their experiences were myths, that most shops were incompetent and lazy, and that he knew better ways of doing things than the manufacturers who made the product he was 'advising' on.

If you think my ego is 'buffed' by my stating obvious, easily referenced facts, well, I guess, thank you very much.

As for the moderators, there is a little yellow and red triangle to the lower left of each post. If you want them to see your post, I suggest you use it.

I would imagine they're getting a bit tired of the supposed 'rights' of every-man-Jack saying whatever he wants, regardless of its' veracity.

Complaints of "violat[ions of] our community guidelines" included...

[keyway]

Yep I am a master of disaster with a hammer and screwdriver. I also like pry bars and grinders. Toenail may have a good idea for those with the skill to undertake this type of project. Of course the trick is getting it back together and running. I knew a fellow who rebuilt a automatic transmission in the middle of a dirt road out in the woods. Others who put oil in the radiator and gasoline in the diesel tank. If you know you know

[toerail]

Thanks Stonecrab;
I like that idea with the angle iron, i didnt think of that

[toerail]

I will be doing that here in a week or two

[oldcal46skipper]

My shop has rebuilt over 200 Perkins 4.108's in the last 15 years & still have 18 in the shop patiently waiting for me to "Lay Hands on".


I appreciate everyone's positive posts! At age 83, I've heard it all.



We take the 4.108 apart carefully, take the block & head to our local machine shop, who places them in their oven and over 24 hours brings the temperature to 500 degrees F. This allows a close inspection for cracks or other damage, cleans it perfectly, then as it is cooling the old cylinder liners are pulled and new ones inserted using their hydraulic press.



Comments, questions & PM.s invited. Our rebuilt 4.108 LONG BLOCKS retail for $6,995 + your "rebuildable block or $1,500.