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11-03-2009, 07:25
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Thorndale ON Canada
Boat: Gufstar Trawler 36' Sea Schooner
Posts: 13
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Perkins Injector Removal
On a Perkins 4-236 I have one of four injectors refusing to come out . The front one. It has had penetrating fluid soaking for a couple of weeks. Any suggestions short of damaging? All other came out clean relatively easy.
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11-03-2009, 07:29
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 318
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Bigger wrench or place a pipe extension on the handle of your wrench for more leverage. Take it slow, work it back and forth at the begining. If that fails, break out the saws, drills and hammers.
__________________
It's kind of like tearing up $100 bills while standing in a cold shower.
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12-03-2009, 06:39
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#3
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Eternal Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North of Baltimore
Boat: Ericson 27 & 18' Herrmann Catboat
Posts: 3,798
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If it is rusted in that badly, the injector is probably going to break off. I have had that happen (years and years ago) . I ended up having to take it out with a reciprocating saw and chisels
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12-03-2009, 07:03
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Thorndale ON Canada
Boat: Gufstar Trawler 36' Sea Schooner
Posts: 13
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With that thought, I think I would prefer to remove or drill out retaining studs first, to work on some rotational force.
The end desire is to lube cylinders work some movement by hand into an engine sitting for a long time.
Further to this what size socket should I pack for the large nut on the end of the crank. (prefer not to fly with a large number of big sockets).
Thanks for the advice will slowly, gently proceed.
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12-03-2009, 08:12
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#5
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Eternal Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North of Baltimore
Boat: Ericson 27 & 18' Herrmann Catboat
Posts: 3,798
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I was going to say that...if you can remove the studs...you will get more of a twist
Also...when you get a wrench on it you might want to try "shocking" it with raps on the end of the wrench...back and forth...don't go crazy beating on it....judicious raps.
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03-04-2010, 07:12
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Nafplio, Greece
Boat: Gib'Sea, 422, 42 ft, Erato
Posts: 176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finner
Further to this what size socket should I pack for the large nut on the end of the crank. (prefer not to fly with a large number of big sockets).
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Measure across the flats of the nut perhaps?
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03-04-2010, 09:11
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Augustine, Fl
Boat: Gulfstar 37 sloop
Posts: 51
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Injector removal
I'm trying to remove mine from a Perkins 4-108. Having never attempted it, I am perplexed as to how they come out. Looking at the diagram of the parts explosion, It is not intuitive. Are they threaded into the head, and what is the function of the collar that is held in place with two nuts on studs? I removed the nuts and nothing is budging. I don't want to force anything for fear of creating more work. Any suggestions? The repair manual is very vague.
Stirfryd
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03-04-2010, 10:00
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 174
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4-108 ejectors
The ejectors on the 4-108 are not screwed in to the engine head like a spark plug. There is a copper washer seal that is compressed when you tighten the two nuts on the ejector holder. Remove these nuts (some of the studs may unscrew from the head) and use a screw driver to pry the holder up. I had to rotate the ejectors a little to get it to come out. Like always make sure the area is clean so no gunk gets in the cylinder. Unfortunatly the PO had some work done on ours and then retapped some of the studs with americian standard threads. I had not realized this and had a mess putting them back in following gettng the ejectors rebuilt. The original studs are metric. When you get the ejectors rebuilt they should also provide new copper washer seals.
Hope this helps
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03-04-2010, 11:29
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Puget Sound
Boat: Irwin 41 CC Ketch
Posts: 2,878
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Too late for the OP...but FWIW to the next guy...that nut is 1 1/2 or 38 mm
__________________
"Go simple, go large!".
Relationships are everything to me...everything else in life is just a tool to enhance them.
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03-04-2010, 19:20
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#10
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Eternal Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North of Baltimore
Boat: Ericson 27 & 18' Herrmann Catboat
Posts: 3,798
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Time and PB Blaster.......Gentler pressure back and forth......
Repeat
You may need to get two ladyslippers I can't describe them well........ I'll try to find a pixture
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04-04-2010, 04:21
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Nafplio, Greece
Boat: Gib'Sea, 422, 42 ft, Erato
Posts: 176
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Cinderella?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief Engineer
I'll try to find a pixture
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Please do. I am intrigued.
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05-04-2010, 18:08
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#12
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Eternal Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North of Baltimore
Boat: Ericson 27 & 18' Herrmann Catboat
Posts: 3,798
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They are also known as rolling head pry bars.
I am sure the British have their own term.....
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09-04-2010, 05:29
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Thorndale ON Canada
Boat: Gufstar Trawler 36' Sea Schooner
Posts: 13
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After using all above methods my one stuck injector came out after removing the head to give more room to use more impact from both bottom and top. We had been using PB blaster for 6 weeks and had many clever pullers, pryers and tapered wedges and sledge hammers working at it. Pulling the head is not a bad job and allows clean up of other issues that will likely be found if valve is rusted in. Get the needed gaskets before pulling and have a local machine shop available to do needed cleanup. Perkins heads are not expensive to get redone at the machine shop.
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09-04-2010, 09:00
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#14
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Eternal Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North of Baltimore
Boat: Ericson 27 & 18' Herrmann Catboat
Posts: 3,798
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When you put it back together, coat the injector bodies with some anti-seize....of yours you and your bloody knuckles already know that
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09-04-2010, 10:02
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Malvernshire, on the sunny side of the hill.
Boat: 50' steel canal and river cruiser
Posts: 1,905
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Its worth making a puller using an old injector pipe nut, shaft, heavy larger dia pipe over the shaft with an end stop. About 12'' travel is enough.
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