Perkins 4108 High Pressure Pump Bleed

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Try and avoid the ether based starting aerosols, they can do harm unless it's done in subzero temperatureAttachment 200260

Oops , didn't mean to send 2 pics but it serves to emphasize the possibilities.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by BigAl.NZ

With the green arrow?

Yes, the green arrow. But there is one that is close to the rotor head on a very short stub visible too.

[Marathon1150]

Originally Posted by BigAl.NZ

PPS: After servicing the racors, can they just be filled from the top with a jerry can? Refill to the top again?

We have a 4.108 and a Racor 500 primary filter. I used to use a small bottle of fuel to top up the filter housing after changing a filter. Then I installed a small electric fuel pump to do that job. It will push fuel all the way through the secondary (on engine filter) which is helpful after changing that filter too. We had a problem with the Racor (plugged with fibres possibly from a paper towel left in the tank after I had it cleaned) and the engine quit because of fuel starvation. The small fuel pump would push fuel all the way through the HP pump bleed screws (we have a different pump than the one in your photo) and it was not necessary to crack the injector lines. The pump was about $20 and simple to install. Highly recommended. These are great engines but can be a pain to bleed.

[BigAl.NZ]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Oops , didn't mean to send 2 pics but it serves to emphasize the possibilities.

Yeah, my brother knew that it wasn't something you want to do very often. The engine has only 4500 hours and always starts just great, but for love nor money after bleeding it with those screws and the injectors I could not get her to start.

I didn't bleed the line with the green arrow, but it was gushing out of screw #3.

[BigAl.NZ]

Originally Posted by Marathon1150

We have a 4.108 and a Racor 500 primary filter. I used to use a small bottle of fuel to top up the filter housing after changing a filter. Then I installed a small electric fuel pump to do that job. It will push fuel all the way through the secondary (on engine filter) which is helpful after changing that filter too. We had a problem with the Racor (plugged with fibres possibly from a paper towel left in the tank after I had it cleaned) and the engine quit because of fuel starvation. The small fuel pump would push fuel all the way through the HP pump bleed screws (we have a different pump than the one in your photo) and it was not necessary to crack the injector lines. The pump was about $20 and simple to install. Highly recommended. These are great engines but can be a pain to bleed.

Tell me about it!!

Love to see a picture of the pump and where it is in your system.

[Marathon1150]

Originally Posted by BigAl.NZ

Tell me about it!!

Love to see a picture of the pump and where it is in your system.

hi: just sent you a PM. Good luck!

[BigAl.NZ]

PS: It wasn't a particularly cold day, about 15 deg C - but we did try the Pre-Heater. How long should it be left on for before starting? (Not that it worked)

[BigAl.NZ]

Dam it. We had a similar issue at the weekend. Fuel startvation (long story) and bleeding it seemed impossible (there seemed to be a lot of air coming out of #1 even after using the lift pump for some time.

It eventually started with "easy start" but I am nervous about using this.

I have gone over this thread again. Would someone please be able to label what A, B and C are?

Also what is the purpose of the pressure gauge between the two racors? It reads 0 when engine is running, and about 5 after engine has stopped (at least for a while.

Cheers

Al

[skipperpete]

A is fuel in
B is an injector line nut
C is another injector pipe nut

[BigAl.NZ]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

A is fuel in
B is an injector line nut
C is another injector pipe nut

Thanks skipperpete. While the engine is going I am going to video the amount of fuel coming out of the injectors and with it not going but primed the amount of fuel coming out of the HP pump.

Then I will at least know how much to expect when the system is working.

For those people that fitted a primer bulb/pump - where in the fuel system did you put it?

Cheers

AL

[Cheechako]

I never had to bleed the HP pump on my 4-108. I just cracked an injector and off it went. Then cracked each one until no bubbles while it was running. You couldn't keep my 4-108 from running. If you wanted to just turn the motor over a touch, it often started instead.

[rbk]

Ours is in between our primary racor filter and the lift pump. Idea being any particulate is removed before fouling the pump. I would suggest going with a online fuel pump. They are around $50 usd and make it even easier than a bulb without the risk of a split bulb and a bilge full of fuel.

[BigAl.NZ]

Originally Posted by rbk

Ours is in between our primary racor filter and the lift pump. Idea being any particulate is removed before fouling the pump. I would suggest going with a online fuel pump. They are around $50 usd and make it even easier than a bulb without the risk of a split bulb and a bilge full of fuel.

What sort of online fuel pump is it? Though TAD said there is no need for it, I just can't seem to bleed the air out of this system.

[jt11791]

The gauge on the Racor lets you the status of the filter. Normally with a good filter, it will read close to zero, maybe up to five. As the filter gets clogged, the vacuum level will rise and the gauge will let you know it's time to change it.

[BigAl.NZ]

Originally Posted by jt11791

The gauge on the Racor lets you the status of the filter. Normally with a good filter, it will read close to zero, maybe up to five. As the filter gets clogged, the vacuum level will rise and the gauge will let you know it's time to change it.

Right. So over 5, time to change?