I mistakenly unscrewed the Anti-Stall screw while bleeding my Perkins
4-108! The manual says to adjust the Anti-Stall screw while the engine
is running, but the engine
won't start. Could someone tell me more details on how that adjustment screw works? (i.e. screw it in too far and the engine gets too much fuel
, preventing a successful start? <--- Total guess on my part, hehe)
Here are more details:
1) My engine has been running great since I bought my 1978 Cal
39 MKII Tall Rig 6 months ago.
2) The engine recently had a slower time starting. It always started first try with a half-second push of the starter. Then, over a period of 3 weeks it gradually took longer to start until it took 5 seconds to start. It still started first try, just took a bit longer.
3) I decided it may be a dirty filter, so I replaced the Racor
500 filter, ran the engine without an issue for about 4 or 5 sails
, but still started with a 5 second crank.
4) I changed the primary filter on the engine (it's the sandwich type) and bled the system per the manual's instructions.
5) Unfortunately, when cracking the screw on the top of the Hydraulically Governed Fuel Pump
it also rotated the whole column, including the lock nut and Anti-Stall screw. I'm not sure how far I rotated it, so it could be as much a 1.5 turns off.
6) I tried to put it back as close as possible, but the engine wouldn't start after completing the bleed process.
7) I tried re-bleeding from the scratch, bubble-free fuel
comes out as I bleed, then I crank the engine with the starter and bleed the high-pressure inlets to the injectors with no luck. I tried 7 times, waiting for the starter to cool between tries.
8) I decided I either have a leak in the system or the adjustment screw is off. But the engine ran perfectly fine before I changed the primary filter. I tried re-seating the primary filter and re-bleeding, even. I bought an electric pump
to tie inline from the fuel tank
to the Racor
filter in case the lift pump
was bad. Nothing going.
Any suggestions? Seems like if it ran before changing the filter, all the other connections would still be solid.
Thanks for the help!
(Oooh, this perfectly describes my frustration right now:
Update: Ok, after letting the starter cool, I tried again.
on and pushing bubble free fuel through clear lines into the first filter (Racor)
Opened the bleed screws in order until fuel came out bubble-free and closed them.
Cranked the engine for 30 seconds while opening the high pressure injector lines until fuel came out and then closed them.
As the last fuel line was tightened, the engine started!
It ran for 10 seconds at 1/4 throttle then quit completely. From hero to zero, just like that.
Air in the system still? Argh!