I was pretty sure I wanted dripless, I mean who wants water in their bilge
, even if mine is about four feet deep amd can hold lots.
Then three years ago I had my shaft pulled to be shortened and checked for run out and had them go back with Teflon packing, I wasn’t there so I don’t know if they used the hard to find actual PTFE packing or the much more available Teflon impregnated flax, but to start with it had no seepage at all, and as you can imagine got fire cracker hot within the first hour when I checked it, so I backed off on it so it would drip a little. Then as it was running cold slowly tightened up until now it runs cool still but no drops at all, and it’s not been adjusted for three years.
So other than spending about $750 and having to plumb in a water hose to the dripless seal, what advantage will I see?
Plus it seems that my dry bilge
is transitory anyway, it seems that something happens every few months to put some water in it, last time it was flushing
my engine cooling
system for instance.
Now once the bilge picked up an odor
, it stank. That was traced to it being full of fresh water, it seems that where we were showering in the cockpit
had water running into a cockpit
locker, that drained to the bilge.
But other than that one time, which had nothing to do with a shaft seal having a couple of inches of water moving around in the bottom of the bilge hasn’t been an issue.
What bothers me is there have actually been several near catastrophic failures of dripless shaft seals
, and maybe some sinkings, once sunk how do you know what sunk it? How do you deal with that hundreds of miles from the nearest haul out
and no Boat US or USCG etc?
Many of those failures are the PSS seals when the rotor backs off from loose locking screws, they seem to have solved
that issue I think with their “Pro” seal that has a locking collar as a back up. Or I believe that’s what it’s for, even if it’s advertised as another purpose of course, cause if they admitted what its for then they are admitting to a design shortfall. Unless I’m mistaken that locking collar is available to purchase
, if I had a PSS seal. I’d be buying
that locking collar right away and eliminate one problem.
Lot better answer than a hose clamp in my opinion.
But it seems the worst failure mode is the bellows tube tearing, and it would take me 20 min of emptying my supply room to get to it to rig a temp repair, or I assume you could wrap it with a towel and maybe hose clamps and slow the leak to a small one anyway.
So the hose having to be a bellows means it has to be flexible and that means weak compared to that strong stiff Buck Algonquin hose I have on my stuffing box, it would take a huge amount of force to tear it.
So that takes us to if you want the hose to be tough, it can’t be a bellows.
So what about the Lasdrop GenII seal? I’ve never even seen one, but it does seem to address both weaknesses of the PSS seal, and yes I know the PSS seal is the most popular.
I assume the Lasdrop hose is stiff and strong, cause it can be?